Looky what I got me hands on! [Archive]

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 14:10

Out of the kindness of my heart, I relieved a mate's overloaded shed of a Honda Trail 90 (CT90), I'm just that nice :yes:

Has been sitting for about 5 years, ever since the chain snapped one day.

No idea of the age, maybe someone can tell from the pics?

So it's my little project, that should actually hopefully not take much work to get going!

So far I've washed out petrol tank, put new gas in, new spark plug, cleaned out carb... I've downloaded the full workshop manual and am trying to run through the troubleshooting as it's not firing at all, I don't think it's sparking whatsoever. I held the spark plug in the lead against the engine and kicked it over but got nothing.

Now, the battery is completely screwed, I've ordered a new one in for 20 bucks to come on monday... But I've heard that these should be able to run without a battery? Especially as I wont be running any lights or anything. Does anything know how this would work?

So things to do:

1) Get the fucker going. Need to diagnose why there ain't a spark, maybe a new battery could fix this and then hopefully it should be allllll good. What else would I need to check out maybe?

2) Get the damn chain on. The old chain snapped off clean, so there is nothing to tie the new chain onto and drag it through the front sprocket... How do I go about getting this new chain on lol? I think I've gotta get it cut to 104 links too.

:scooter:

I'll probably be looking to work on it again tomorrow, so if anyone wants to pop round with some much needed experience or just for a laugh, feel free! The biggie is getting the chain on, I have no idea how... I have access to an angle grinder up at the local shop to cut it when needed though.

And if it ain't gonna spark and start without a decent battery then I'll just wait till next week to look at that side of things.

Some quick pics for you pervs :rockon:

slofox

17th July 2009, 14:14

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 14:23

Does the bike have ignition points?
Five years of disuse will have allowed the points (if it has points that is) to oxidise. Which will stop the spark. Get the points file out and give the points a good scrape. Reset gap etc and Robert's your Relative...

Are ignition points the same as contact breaker points? I had a quick look at the point gap, it all looked pretty clean, I don't have any feelers to measure the correct gap though. And then I was looking at the ignition timing to check but got confused lol :eek5:

slofox

17th July 2009, 14:29

Are ignition points the same as contact breaker points? I had a quick look at the point gap, it all looked pretty clean, I don't have any feelers to measure the correct gap though. And then I was looking at the ignition timing to check but got confused lol :eek5:

Yes - contact breaker points.
Looking at them won't show oxidation. The layer is clear. File them dude, file them. And go buy a feeler gauge - cheap but essential.

Danae

17th July 2009, 14:33

What a beast!! :clap:

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 14:36

Yes - contact breaker points.
Looking at them won't show oxidation. The layer is clear. File them dude, file them. And go buy a feeler gauge - cheap but essential.

Sweet I'll give them a bit of a file if I can find something to file them with haha :woohoo:

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 14:37

What a beast!! :clap:

Argh why do I get that from all the girls :crazy:

:wari:

slofox

17th July 2009, 14:40

Sweet I'll give them a bit of a file if I can find something to file them with haha :woohoo:

I usta have a feeler gauge that had a points file attached...

rickstv

17th July 2009, 14:40

looks very 1965ish to me

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 14:43

looks very 1965ish to me

Sweet only twice as old as me! It's a Honda, it'll be going in no time I reckon :woohoo:

motorbyclist

17th July 2009, 14:47

dontcha just luuurve electrical problems :D

when my 198? XL125 magically stopped running one day it was the coils that went, giving dodgy power that gave the CDI a bit of a fizz. took a fair while to figure THAT one out haha

motorbyclist

17th July 2009, 14:49

if you look around the steering head/yoke you might see a plate showing the year of manufacture, otherwise an engine or chassis number might shed some more light

vifferman

17th July 2009, 15:02

You didn't say anything about the oil - did you change that?

If the ignition timing is off, you can reset it using a cigarette paper: stick it between the points, pull very gently on it, and when the timing mark on the flywheel is in the right place, it should slip out from between them.

To put the chain on, under the bolts on the countershaft cover. You'll need to whip that off anyway, in case there's crap under there that needs cleaning out. Then just poke the end of the new chain in and thread it around the countershaft sprocket. (If you tie a piece of string or thin wire - such as electrical wire - around it, that will make it easier to draw through.)

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 15:23

if you look around the steering head/yoke you might see a plate showing the year of manufacture, otherwise an engine or chassis number might shed some more light

A quick search reveals... Nothing :no: I do mean quick though, I'll have a proper look around tomorrow!

You didn't say anything about the oil - did you change that?

If the ignition timing is off, you can reset it using a cigarette paper: stick it between the points, pull very gently on it, and when the timing mark on the flywheel is in the right place, it should slip out from between them.

To put the chain on, under the bolts on the countershaft cover. You'll need to whip that off anyway, in case there's crap under there that needs cleaning out. Then just poke the end of the new chain in and thread it around the countershaft sprocket. (If you tie a piece of string or thin wire - such as electrical wire - around it, that will make it easier to draw through.)

Haven't changed oil as such, I've made sure there is plenty in it for the moment though. I plan on changing it when I know it at least goes, as it'll run on any old oil at the very least right?

Cheers for the chain advice. Is the contershaft cover the front sprocket cover? Shall I cut the cut to 104 links as google suggests, or thread the chain through and match the ends up to see how much I reckon I should cut?

I'm thinking with ignition timing etc I'd want a better eye watching over, ay Motorb! :yes:

HungusMaximist

17th July 2009, 15:43

As far as I know, they don't need a battery however I've got a ex nz postie CT110 and it's preferable you do put a battery in so that the current/load from the bike goes into the battery.

It will save your electrics.

Nice score btw bro!

HungusMaximist

17th July 2009, 15:49

Ragingrob

17th July 2009, 15:54

Btw, did you buy the $20 off bits4bikes?

Let me know if it's any good, I've heard that they're slighty dodgey, but let me ya?

I was really tempted but decided to settle on a slighty dearer but better made, Tawainese Yuasa cuz I relied on my CT to start everytime I kick it.

You can be my CT buddy now..

Na I'm ordering it through Mr Motorcycles in Puke, not too sure what brand they've got coming in though.

Haha yeah for sure, at the moment I'm looking at it for a paddock basher, but man it'd be fun to chuck the electrics on it and get it road legal!

Ragingrob

18th July 2009, 12:17

Yeah so the plan right now I think would be best to just wait till I get the battery early next week and go from there. No point mucking around with too much more when the battery is completely screwed.

I think the main thing I'll need a hand with is getting the chain sorted. Roadtrip to Karaka next weekend Squiggles?

HungusMaximist

18th July 2009, 13:08

motorbyclist

18th July 2009, 15:17

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 11:25

klyong82

23rd July 2009, 12:19

Its a Honda it wont explode no matter how you treat it

motorbyclist

23rd July 2009, 14:16

A spark a spark! I've chucked the new battery in and we now have a definite spark woohoo. BUT it ain't starting.

Following the troubleshooting in the manual, the next step is to test for compression... Anyone? How do I check this?

Cheers.

the easy way is to kick it over - if she's got a hard spot then there's some compression. You'll need a tester to actually get a number out of it to check if it's within spec.

Squiggles

23rd July 2009, 16:19

Stop kicking it like a pussy and it'll run

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 16:49

I have a compression tester guage, the manual specs say the compression ratio is 8.2:1, lol any idea how to convert this to psi?

Shutup Squiggles, Do YOU know who I AM! :crazy:

Na seriously... so I'm gonna go try test the compression, if it's all good then it's gonna be something stupid to fix (i.e. I think the throttle cable may be jammed). Or... I just keep kicking and it'll fire someday lol.

Squiggles

23rd July 2009, 16:52

You're supposed to move the kickstart through an arc, not boot the bike across the room...

& its 120psi or 105... dont remember

motorbyclist

23rd July 2009, 17:27

I say we turbo it - that'll increase the pressure :D

Danae

23rd July 2009, 17:32

Dude, he's Rob Norris, don't question his kicks!! :crazy:

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:05

You're supposed to move the kickstart through an arc, not boot the bike across the room...

& its 120psi or 105... dont remember

K well the compression test shows 100kPax100. So, there's some compression at least. Do ya reckon that's decent enough?

Now following the flow chart we have either engine misses, or engine fires but does not start. I'm leaning towards the engine misses side. This then leads me to whether the spark plug is wet or not, it's definitely wet with petrol. There troubleshooting offers 3 ideas...1)Flooded carb, 2)Choke valve closed excessively and 3)Throttle valve opened excessively.

I think the throttle cable itself may actually be jammed, so tomorrow I'll pull it out and try to get some WD40 down it and see if I can unjam it. Surely having the throttle valve jammed open this would flood the carb so this would take up two of those options?

At the bottom end of the throttle cable I'm not quite sure what adjustments are necessary (if any), i.e. where the throttle needle goes into the carb. Do you just screw it down as far as it goes naturally? Pretty much... How do I ensure that the throttle valve is not opened excessively? (Once I check that the cable isn't jammed).

:rockon:

motorbyclist

23rd July 2009, 18:10

I have a compression tester guage, the manual specs say the compression ratio is 8.2:1, lol any idea how to convert this to psi?

air starts at atmospheric pressure (1 bar), assuming ideal gas and no temperature change pressure will increase 8.2 times to 8.2 bar.**

google converts 8.2 bar to 118.93 psi

**apologies if i stuffed up the ratio but it's safe to say the pressure should be higher than 100psi

ie if it should be 9.2 bar, then that converts to 133.43 psi

motorbyclist

23rd July 2009, 18:15

are you talking about the idle adjustment? have you removed the carb and cleaned it yet? if you have you should know if the throttle cable/assembly is working correctly

spark plug is wet or not, it's definitely wet with petrol. There troubleshooting offers 3 ideas...1)Flooded carb, 2)Choke valve closed excessively and 3)Throttle valve opened excessively.

4) blocked air filter.

temporary solution: remove it.

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:17

air starts at atmospheric pressure (1 bar), assuming ideal gas and no temperature change pressure will increase 8.2 times to 8.2 bar.**

google converts 8.2 bar to 118.93 psi

**apologies if i stuffed up the ratio but it's safe to say the pressure should be higher than 100psi

K well yeah the compression gauge showed more like 7 bar... Fuck well a lack of compression gives a ton of options...

-Engine not cranked (clutch slipping)
-No valve clearance
-Valve stuck open
-Worn cylinder and piston rings
-Blown cylinder head gasket
-Flaw in cylinder head
-Improper valve timing

Where, the, fuck, do, I, start?!

:crybaby:

Squiggles

23rd July 2009, 18:19

Thats plenty of compression...

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:20

are you talking about the idle adjustment? have you removed the carb and cleaned it yet? if you have you should know if the throttle cable/assembly is working correctly

4) blocked air filter.

temporary solution: remove it.

Yep I've cleaned carb. And yeah well I took the throttle apart etc and put it back and thought it looked all dandy, but the throttle itself has no "spring-back" to it, i.e. I can just turn the throttle back and forth and it'll just sit wherever within springing back into position, and I don't think that the throttle wire cable itself is moving inside the rubber tube, in that it's moving the entire cable as one.

Air filter doesn't appear blocked, but I can remove that to test easy enough.

You know you wanna just come out on Sunday, I'll even let ya ride it once ya get it going :scooter:

Squiggles

23rd July 2009, 18:21

You're probably flooding it good then...

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:21

Thats plenty of compression...

Thank fuck! K back to my 3 options, with Andrew's added 4th. Sweet tomorrow I'll pull apart throttle assembly and see what I can do. I know that the choke is working fine so I think I can rule that one out. I'll take the air filter off and see if it makes a difference too.

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:23

You're probably flooding it good then...

You're a man of many words per post today Stevo! :bash:

Any insight as to what to do with the throttle cable then? Just detach both ends and see if I can get the cable moving freely inside the housing?

Deano

23rd July 2009, 18:25

Are you giving up your day job and becoming a postie lol ?

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:27

Are you giving up your day job and becoming a postie lol ?

I doubt the CT90 will get to the speed limit around here :doh:

But it can try!

Squiggles

23rd July 2009, 18:30

You're a man of many words per post today Stevo! :bash:

Any insight as to what to do with the throttle cable then? Just detach both ends and see if I can get the cable moving freely inside the housing?

Might be a good idea to have a working throttle ya

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 18:33

K one question... Does anyone know where neutral is on these Hondamatics? As far as you can kick down? Can't really tell with no chain and all, but would prefer to try and start it in neutral haha.

motorbyclist

23rd July 2009, 18:54

K one question... Does anyone know where neutral is on these Hondamatics? As far as you can kick down? Can't really tell with no chain and all, but would prefer to try and start it in neutral haha.

would be at the top wouldn't it? don't you have the manual there?

K well yeah the compression gauge showed more like 7 bar... Fuck well a lack of compression gives a ton of options...

-Engine not cranked (clutch slipping)

that should be sufficient compression, and how is the clutch in any way related?

Ragingrob

23rd July 2009, 19:26

would be at the top wouldn't it? don't you have the manual there?

that should be sufficient compression, and how is the clutch in any way related?

I have a manual I downloaded... It doesn't tell ya how to ride the damn thing though!

Gonna get the chain on tomorrow hopefully so will be able to tell haha.

Don't ask me, I just copied outta the manual's troubleshooting flow chart!

EDIT : Google says that you just kick the front of the gear lever down and it'll end up at neutral.

HungusMaximist

24th July 2009, 08:17

I have a manual I downloaded... It doesn't tell ya how to ride the damn thing though!

Gonna get the chain on tomorrow hopefully so will be able to tell haha.

Don't ask me, I just copied outta the manual's troubleshooting flow chart!

EDIT : Google says that you just kick the front of the gear lever down and it'll end up at neutral.

Forward to go down a gear and back to go up. Works like a see-saw.

So yes, you're right, step on the front gear lever pedal and you know when you're neutral when you can move the bike freely.

There should be a neutral light that comes on.

Ragingrob

24th July 2009, 11:18

Progress!!!! I took apart throttle cable but it doesn't really seem jammed, maybe it was just screwed in on an odd angle or something.

Removed air filter, sprayed a ton of starter inside and had success with the choke shut, engine would fire, rev up and then die.

Opening the choke now leads to the following video!

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LpJ2Gd64OLc&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LpJ2Gd64OLc&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

As you can see... Engine is pretty damn spluttery, and as soon as I close the choke whatsoever the engine dies.

It won't start at all or rev at all with the choke shut.

Also, it won't rev with the throttle when the engine's going with the choke wide open.

Any ideas where to go to from here? Still sounds like I may need to play with the throttle somewhat... Although it is moving freely and even snapping back into position.

A mate's popping around soon with an angle grinder and we're going to attempt to put the chain on.

So yeah... After listening to that video what would ya suggest?

Ragingrob

24th July 2009, 13:21

Alright fuckers... Check this out!

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DpVkf-UJHc4&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DpVkf-UJHc4&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Also have the chain on it and all... It's fucken mint to ride haha! Revs bog down if you're not easy on the throttle though, so I've just gotta sort that out and then it'll be sweeeeeeeeet!

Squiggles

24th July 2009, 13:22

Define cleaning the carb... did you remove the jets etc?

Ragingrob

24th July 2009, 13:59

Define cleaning the carb... did you remove the jets etc?

I opened carb, took float out, spraying carb and float with carb cleaner, wiped all clean and shiny, and put back together.

How do ya get the jets out? If I get them out do I wanna blow through them an spray carb cleaner through them to check they're not blocked?

Yeah so it revs all the way out but not if you give it much gas at all, it just bogs down if you gas it.

Slyer

24th July 2009, 14:30

Did you make sure all the passages are unblocked? There are more than just the jets.

Ragingrob

24th July 2009, 14:48

Did you make sure all the passages are unblocked? There are more than just the jets.

Didn't look all that much. I'll put the carb off again over the weekend and have a thorough look and blow everything out.

Squiggles

24th July 2009, 15:10

Yep, strip it all down

Ragingrob

25th July 2009, 13:29

Alright...

Stripped carb and cleaned it good and proper, adjusted float by 1mm haha to match what the manual says, and removed petrol tank and lines and blew them out and got crap outta tank.

It still bogs down completely and dies if you give it any decent gas, in saying that I got up to like 60kph down my road... Not bad for a bike that ya can't rev!

Now, it revs much more freely when it is choked, like almost revs fine, though under load it obviously doesn't run amazingly well with the choke on.

What would this point to? So, when there's less air it revs freely... Meaning that when the choke's off there's too much air getting in? Or maybe there's not enough petrol getting in to match the air?

One thing I've though about but haven't really touched yet is the main jet, by turning this I can let more or less petrol flow through right? Making it run rich or lean? So I can turn the jet to let more petrol through to better the ratio of gas to air when not choked... Am I thinking along the right lines?

Cheers!

motorbyclist

25th July 2009, 13:42

lol i bet you looked a lot like your avatar when you got her going!

what does the plug look like?

motorbyclist

25th July 2009, 13:43

lol the weather's so mint i'm keen to come down and have a look at why she's not running right (maybe tomorrow).... might even bring one of my hondas too seeing as we're paddock bashing.....:shifty:

Ragingrob

25th July 2009, 13:50

lol i bet you looked a lot like your avatar when you got her going!

what does the plug look like?

Bro you should've seen the smile on my face! It doesn't even smoke or anything lol.

Last time I took the plug out it was dry (thank god) but charcoal black, I should know what this means but I don't lol? Does it mean it's running rich already?

lol the weather's so mint i'm keen to come down and have a look at why she's not running right (maybe tomorrow).... might even bring one of my hondas too seeing as we're paddock bashing.....:shifty:

Haha... Well I'm free tomorrow until mid arvo, or I can be free from mid arvo, whichever suits, just got a game of tennis sometime.

Even though I can't rev the bike, I've already taken it paddock bashing :Punk: So you're more than welcome haha! I had the biggest grin ever pootling around pretending I was going fast, just wait till it can rev properly :gob:

motorbyclist

25th July 2009, 13:56

Last time I took the plug out it was dry (thank god) but charcoal black, I should know what this means but I don't lol? Does it mean it's running rich already? horrifically rich

tell ya what, the internet can be a lot more helpful if you provide photos (of tits or otherwise)

Haha... Well I'm free tomorrow until mid arvo, or I can be free from mid arvo, whichever suits, just got a game of tennis sometime.

when is mid arvo?

Ragingrob

25th July 2009, 14:04

horrifically rich

tell ya what, the internet can be a lot more helpful if you provide photos (of tits or otherwise)

when is mid arvo?

Can running horrifically rich lead to bogging down under gas?

Photos, pssssh use your imagination! Na bike's away for the day, I'm off to a wedding :soon: :beer:

Well I can either be free till like 3 or 4pm and play tennis then, or I could play at 1pm and be free from like 3pm.

:rockon: I'm just so stoked the thing's already going haha! So far it's cost me like 60 bucks for a farm bike :bleh:

motorbyclist

25th July 2009, 14:45

Can running horrifically rich lead to bogging down under gas?

it's flooding.

Well I can either be free till like 3 or 4pm and play tennis then,

sounds good - we'll see how tonight goes

Ragingrob

26th July 2009, 00:45

it's flooding.

sounds good - we'll see how tonight goes

Sweet well gimme a text ay...

Otherwise... What do I do to cut the richness? Lower the jet?

Ragingrob

26th July 2009, 10:18

Well here are two very average photos of the sparky, camera doesn't wanna focus on it lol... But yeah the tip is pretty black.

What are my options if we think it's flooding under throttle?

- Re-jet?
- Adjust air stop?
- Adjust throttle needle?

motorbyclist

26th July 2009, 14:41

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOxxS1EMphU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w

Ragingrob

26th July 2009, 18:18

Big shout out to motorb! Good trip out to Karaka to charge up the yammy's battery on someone else's petrol :ride:

He pretty much showed me how to clean a carb properly haha. And ta daaa the bike goes mint!

So my winter project lasted 2 weeks and $60. Ah well time to smash the paddocks up now :woohoo:

motorbyclist

26th July 2009, 22:47

managed to almost completely empty the r6 tank too! did a few rounds of the block before shelving her (rego to go on hold for 3 months) and man that thing is a weapon! tis a pity the brakes still dont work.....

as for The Growler, a bit of fine tuning with the air mix and a good thrashing for a day or two to blow what's left of the cobwebs out and she'll be mint. all that's left is work to tidy her up and make her look pretty

still running rich, but runs so sweet and all she needed was unblocked jets

Danae

27th July 2009, 07:57

yay! :woohoo:

Ragingrob

27th July 2009, 08:43

PirateJafa

27th July 2009, 09:11

Now just gotta find me some sticky velcro for the viffer :shifty:

Sounds kinky. :niceone:

Ragingrob

27th July 2009, 11:58

Sounds kinky. :niceone:

Very much so... Some velcro for under my ass indeed :Punk:

Ragingrob

29th July 2009, 19:17

Went for a few km ride today... That is, until I realised it was pissing out petrol haha! So I gapped it home, along with some mean backfiring!

What causes fuel to keep pouring out the overflow tube? A stuck float... Anything else? Cause I quickly took carb apart and made sure float was moving freely, and it still pissed out. Though I guess the float could have got stuck again as soon as I bolted carb together?

GR! Wanna go for a burn tomorrow morning and wreck some havoc, so what do I need to rule out?!

motorbyclist

29th July 2009, 19:32

float valve seal may have split....

Ragingrob

29th July 2009, 19:33

float valve seal may have split....

Is that the only other reason? Biiiitch, is the float valve supposed to be able to just come out? Where is the seal?

Squiggles

29th July 2009, 20:30

On the GN the seal is on the strainer like brass insert that the float valve comes up into to block

Ragingrob

29th July 2009, 20:46

On the GN the seal is on the strainer like brass insert that the float valve comes up into to block

Hmmm in the carb diagram in the manual there is no seal or anything near the float valve <_<

Squiggles

29th July 2009, 20:48

You're clearly fucked then.

Ragingrob

29th July 2009, 20:53

You're clearly fucked then.

Though I could light the petrol leaking out and have a flame trail so I can find my way home :sunny:

Hmmm tomorrow I'll see if it's still leaking out the overflow after I checked out the float tonight.

If there is a split seal, surely I should be able to find it somewhere haha.

motorbyclist

30th July 2009, 00:15

get camera, hit the macro mode (should be a button with a flower on it), take photos.

quicker than thousands of words

Squiggles

30th July 2009, 00:30

get camera, hit the macro mode (should be a button with a flower on it), take photos.

quicker than thousands of words

In the words of Jafa, dont you be bringing sense into this!

Ragingrob

30th July 2009, 09:35

Ok, so I think I've found the problem. Pretty much the float valve can fall outta it's place with no restraint... I assume that's where the seal is meant to be?

Take a look at the pics, the first is me holding the float valve outta the hole, it just comes out.

The second is the carb sitting as it would on the bike, and you can see that the valve has fallen out onto the float arm, which would pretty much hold the float right open!

So... Is this what's going wrong? Does that valve need some kinda seal?

Ragingrob

30th July 2009, 09:57

Alright na, that valve is meant to just sit in there and move freely ain't it? So that's fine them.

Hmmm maybe I'll give the actual valve a bit more of a clean, in case it's getting jammed or something.

Found this on Google -

Leaks
Leaks are one of the more common findings in bikes that have sat for a long time. You put fuel in, and the stuff starts leaking out of the carb. Leaks usually occur at one of three places, and while two of them you can see, the third is actually the most dangerous.

1. Overflow tube: if you have fuel coming out the overflow tube, which leads down below the engine, or at the place the tube would be if someone hadn't taken the tube off, the float bowl is overfilling. This is usually caused by a stuck float needle, and this is common in bikes which sat for a long time. The reason is, the gas gradually dries out of the float bowl, and as the level falls, the float needle opens, and then the fuel dries out, leaving resins behind which glue the needle in the wide-open position. You put new fuel in, the float bowl fills, but the needle never completely closes, causing overflow out the tube. This is fairly easy to correct, provided there isn't a lot of corrosion in the area of the needle and jet. Take all the brass parts out, clean them with brass wool and machine oil, make sure they all fit smoothly, then put it all back in. If they still bind and leak (you can test this without fuel, by reinstalling the float and blowing air in the fuel inlet tube. It should be airtight with only a little upward pressure on the float). If it still binds, get a rebuild kit and replace everything.

As the parts guy said at Honda... I'd be lucky to find much in terms of any rebuild kits or anything for this old girl!

Slyer

30th July 2009, 10:02

Sorry rob but WORST PHOTOS EVAR

Ragingrob

30th July 2009, 10:33

Sorry rob but WORST PHOTOS EVAR

Meh, photos don't matter anymore. Buy me a new camera if you'd like?

Ok so I mucked around with the float valve, seems to be moving nice and smoothly.

But now the fucker won't start! I'm thinking the damn spark plug is fouled after all that running rich as.

FUCKER!

PirateJafa

30th July 2009, 11:28

RagingRob raging? Surely not?

Edit: Oh and guess what raging idiot didn't remind me to bring that axle today either?

motorbyclist

30th July 2009, 12:30

But now the fucker won't start! I'm thinking the damn spark plug is fouled after all that running rich as.

so, did you actually check it can spark then?

running so rich things coke up isn't too great for the valves btw

Ragingrob

30th July 2009, 16:20

RagingRob raging? Surely not?

Edit: Oh and guess what raging idiot didn't remind me to bring that axle today either?

Well you weren't gonna get in time, so take THAT! Bring it tomo to the sign-up stand, I'll remind you.

so, did you actually check it can spark then?

running so rich things coke up isn't too great for the valves btw

Well the spark test fails now :(, i.e. spark against engine and there is no spark when I kick it over. So that means the spark's fouled right?

Do I adjust the air inflow screw to make it run leaner?

Well, at least petrol doesn't flow out the overflow anymore, not that the engine's run since to check that it's 100% fine.

GRRRRR

motorbyclist

30th July 2009, 16:26

get a new plug, or tidy up the existing one.

you can try the screw, but make only very fine adjustments and record what you've done

Ragingrob

30th July 2009, 16:45

get a new plug, or tidy up the existing one.

you can try the screw, but make only very fine adjustments and record what you've done

Yeah plan on a new plug tomorrow. Lol the screw I've turned so much in the past so who knows where it's at!

I wiped down the current spark plug but it's pretty dark and not nice and shiny at all :(

motorbyclist

30th July 2009, 16:57

sand paper, in gap, run through a few times, turn over, repeat, adjust gap.

will remove a bit of electrode but gets things working again.

got a default setting to turn the screw to?

Ragingrob

30th July 2009, 17:32

sand paper, in gap, run through a few times, turn over, repeat, adjust gap.

will remove a bit of electrode but gets things working again.

got a default setting to turn the screw to?

Roger.

Yep, "one turn" lol. Must be close it and one turn anti-clockwise.

Cause yeah, it wouldn't even fire with engine start. When I rode it yesterday it must have just been flooding the whole time and done enough damage to the spark plug to completely kill it :weep:

Ragingrob

1st August 2009, 11:14

Sweet got her running again, albeit very rich, spark plug blackens like a bitch! I'm gonna mess around with the air/pilot screw adjustment to see if it'll reduce the richness.

Ragingrob

1st August 2009, 15:35

Mucked around with the air/pilot screw and now the spark plug stays a nice tan colour... Schveeeeeeeeet!

Even got some air from a mint jump in the paddock, ha!

Gonna boost down to mate's place later, we'll see how the long-distance (a few k's) range works out.

motorbyclist

4th August 2009, 02:26

Ragingrob

4th August 2009, 08:26

finally found the diagram for that (general) type of carb; really is just to basic carb theory but is also a close match for what you've got:

EDIT: and yes, the slide needle can wiggle loose within the slide and cause all sorts of havoc

Mint cheers! The next step is to replace both fuel lines as they're deteriorating like a mofo :Oi:

Not to mention doing an oil change sometime :sleep: