Neutral to first change

[marine0089]

Hi,

I have had a quick search but really don't even know if what I'm encountering is really a problem and if it is, what to search for to find others with the same.

I have a Kawasaki 2007 GPX 250. This is my first bike so am still learning the ropes. One thing that's always happened with this bike is that when sitting sationary (in Neutral) and you change to first, the bike jumps forward ever so slightly. I have never thought much of it as assumed that is what bikes just do but recently, after the bike has been sitting for a while (over night or during the day), shifting to first gives the usual jump and a loud-ish crack noise. The crack only happens for the first shift however. Ever other neutral to first change after that just does the usual.

What I'm wanting to know really is first off, is the jump forward normal behavior and any idea's on why this crack noise is happening.

Cheers.

[Ragingrob]

It's normal to have some sort of engagement click and perhaps a small surge. You could look at adjusting your clutch lever so that it pulls the clutch slightly further out which could make the change somewhat smoother.

[slofox]

Clutch probably holding on a little when first disengaged. Try pulling the clutch in and rolling the bike back a little, release clutch and then pull in again and engage first gear. This seems to minimise the first gear jump when I do it...

[CookMySock]

Keep the engine revs down.. If the choke is on a bit (it should be as the bike is warming up) the revs will be held a little high. Anything over 2,000rpm and its going to go into first gear with a big munt, so keep it at or around 2k.

Also it might be that the engine oil is too thick. Is it also hard to find neutral?

Steve

[marine0089]

Nah it finds neutral easy as. Have never had any problems with that. Being a kawa however, the positive neutral finder helps out with this.

Could well be the revs as usually have choke on full for a min or so (6k revs) then push it back to half (which is still 4-3k revs) and take off.

Will try letting it warm more after work tonight and take choke off before changing.

[vifferman]

Roll the bike forward slightly while putting it into first - this turns the gears in the gearbox a little so the engagement is easier.

[marine0089]

Steve was bang on the money with the high revs causing the "clunk" sound. Will have to be a little more patient on cold starts from now on.

Rolling the bike forward also helped make general transitions a lot smoother.

Thanks for all the help guys :done:

[FJRider]

Try putting it up into 2nd ... then into first.

[sinfull]

Try putting it up into 2nd ... then into first.

He's going to warm it up now !!!

[marine0089]

Try putting it up into 2nd ... then into first.

Kawa's positive neutral finder makes this a bit tricky.

[CookMySock]

Good shit bro, sounds like you are back on track. :first:

Steve

[marine0089]

Yip and am guessing this is only one of the many quirks bikes have that I'll encounter in the months/years to come.

All good fun.

[Danae]

Yip and am guessing this is only one of the many quirks bikes have that I'll encounter in the months/years to come.

All good fun.

Not all bikes jump forward a bit ;] I've never noticed my FXR do it

[CookMySock]

Not all bikes jump forward a bit ;] I've never noticed my FXR do ityer but it a itty bitty widdle bike dat only jumps if you give it a bad fright. :no:

Steve

[merv]

The thing to understand is that bikes like yours have wet clutches, meaning they have oil on the clutch plates, and when cold, and having sat for a while particularly, they (the clutch plates) are a bit sticky. Pull your clutch in and even blip the throttle a bit, then wait a couple of seconds until the revs are low, then put it into gear making sure you are holding the front brake at the time and the bike won't jerk forward.