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daz71
5th November 2009, 10:09
I was riding my b1 and its lacking power,it has 6tooth front and 68 rear .
What can i do to get it up to speed in 14mm class, Im going to pull it apart and check the reed valve, and adjust the clutch, i know its trial and error.
Im running it on 40:1 mix with 98 octane.
GOT ANY TRICKS.:brick:

Sidewinder
5th November 2009, 10:11
I was riding my b1 and its lacking power,it has 6tooth front and 68 rear .
What can i do to get it up to speed in 14mm class, Im going to pull it apart and check the reed valve, and adjust the clutch, i know its trial and error.
Im running it on 40:1 mix with 98 octane.
GOT ANY TRICKS.:brick:

yea put a ktm 50 in it

daz71
5th November 2009, 10:14
Na i allready got a cr80 in one

Sidewinder
5th November 2009, 10:15
Na i allready got a cr80 in one
just use that then
pocket bikes just have poo engines

BigAl
5th November 2009, 10:48
I was riding my b1 and its lacking power,it has 6tooth front and 68 rear .
What can i do to get it up to speed in 14mm class, Im going to pull it apart and check the reed valve, and adjust the clutch, i know its trial and error.
Im running it on 40:1 mix with 98 octane.

Hi Daz, has power dropped off or always been like this? Does it run better when cold and get slower? What is top end like as clutch setup is pretty critical. Do wheels run free, i.e. brakes not binding? chain not tight?

daz71
5th November 2009, 11:03
Yeah chains tight, brakes good,wheels free,must be clutch i put in a new one but havnt adjusted it, it runs good but when i come out of a corner onto a straight you guys blow me away.:no:

Gadgit
5th November 2009, 11:32
Hay Daz in most cases it's clutch. 200rpm under the power band engaugement can cause it to be a bit slow out of the corner. And then theres the other way engauging too late will cause too much slip right through the rev range. It may get up to top speed ok but it wont be using the engines toque well and wear the clutch fast. A well set up clutch should easy see you through a years racing. You may need to sit down and spend a bit of time with it. All spring lengths must be the same then the adjustment needs to be the same on each shoe so as one shoe isn't taking all the weight. Theres a bit in it but once you get it right the engine power will feel a whole lot better.

Gadgit
5th November 2009, 11:37
Also dont adjust the grub screws to far when trying to find the sweet spot. One flat of the hex is equal to round 200rpm. once you find it going good then messure the space between the shoe spring seat and the adjustment spring seat then you can adjust all new clutchs to this before fitting.

daz71
5th November 2009, 20:32
Cheers mate ill try that when we get some fine weather lol, ill let ya know
what happens.:not:

stallion
10th November 2009, 21:39
i think your problem could be that you put it together, lol:lol:. better luck with 80 maybe:bash::spanking:

daz71
11th November 2009, 15:47
you better not fuck it up then , hurry up and get my bike going lol :clap:

mohawk
11th November 2009, 19:58
Pretty sure i set my clutches too 21.5 mm and i was kicking your arse outa the corners.:woohoo:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/275752/Blata-Origami-Manual

daz71
11th November 2009, 20:32
The only reason you were kicking my arse outta corners was the crank case was full of water, which seized the bearing, broke rings ... which damaged piston lol it won't happen now cause i have a brand new engine! lol :clap::not:

stallion
13th November 2009, 18:02
hope it goes well now:yeah:

daz71
13th November 2009, 20:47
yeah man your a fuckin legend thanks again ..... best mechanic a man can have lol :2thumbsup im havin a bourbon for ya :drinkup:

newmanz
20th November 2009, 08:40
I was riding my b1 and its lacking power,it has 6tooth front and 68 rear .
What can i do to get it up to speed in 14mm class, Im going to pull it apart and check the reed valve, and adjust the clutch, i know its trial and error.
Im running it on 40:1 mix with 98 octane.
GOT ANY TRICKS.:brick:

Hello,
We just got back from testing many types of Pocketbikes on the Dyno, this was during a large race track meeting.

Found on a few of the water cooled and air cooled modified, the ones getting lots of RPM (over 9200), vibration from the frame and engine was aerating the fuel, (producing tiny air bubbles that build up inside your carb) causing power loss.

We fixed this by using a T junction in the fuel line and running another fuel hose up above the fuel tank. You can either put a breather on the end, or just put it back into the fuel tank.

This removes the air immediately and also provides 2 lines of fuel to the carb.
Bikes all pulled cleanly with no more problems.

Also, we found the jetting needle size .70 worked best over all, for the E2 style carbs ( though I think these are 19mm from memory)

Anyway, this mod can be used on any bike, its cheap and works. :2guns: