CBX400f flywheel marks?

[lb99]

setting valve clearances on my CBX400f, with the marks on the flywheel set to T, there are two sets of marks on my cam sprockets, seem to be 1 tooth apart. timing is as it was when I got the bike, set to the smaller marks, is it worth trying out the other setting to see what it will do? the manual only shows one set of marks on the cam sprockets.

pics below, marks in pink coz its a honda.....

<a href="http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g148/allnamesgone/?action=view&current=photos005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g148/allnamesgone/photos005.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g148/allnamesgone/?action=view&current=photos004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g148/allnamesgone/photos004.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

oh yeah, see in pic #2 in the top left background, the cam cap bolt? was like that when I took the rocker cover off (wound right out, fully loose)

[Wheeliemonsta]

Gidday,
Ignore the other set of marks, they will pertain to your camshaft sprockets being used in another model engine & will be used to clock that particular engine up to do the valve clearences on it...

Provided you have T 1 & 4 showing in the inspection window on the altenator rotor & the marks on the camshafts appear uniform to one another you should be good to go (I am assuming that the engine was running just fine prior to you decidng to do the clearences...?)

Follow implicitly the instruction in your service manual for the rest of the clearence checking procedure - it's a fairly staright forward with your motor being of the "screw & locknut" variety as opposed to a "shim" engine...
When setting the clearences experience counts for a lot - ultimately you want all valves set bang smack in the middle of the clearence spec's for optimum engine performance

Once you have done those that are adjustable on the T 1 & 4 marks you'll need to move the engine clockwise (as a rule - check your service manual) 360 degress & bring it up on the T 2 & 3 marks to do the remaining clearence on the other cylinders...

With regards the loose cam cap bolt - I would suggest removing the other bolt & carefully inspecting the cap for an damage (it will be plainly apparent if it is - if however you want to confirm this then remove another cap to compare) when you go to re-fit the cap(s) give them a good drop or two of oil on the bearing surface & take the bolts down gently & evenly until they are both seated completely... Once you've done this place your thumb against the head of your rachet & three fingers over the bar & tighten like this until you can no longer move the bolt (remain stationary yourself & just pull with your wrist) this will get the torque value on the bolts well in inside the factory requirements without the need for a torque wrench

Good luck & lets know how you go

Cheers

:rockon:

[lb99]

yeah the bike was runing ok I guess, no worries with doing the valve clearances, the cam and cap are both ok, nothing scarey in the marks on either. is all back together now, one day I will reassemble the whole thing and take it for a ride.
I was just curious as to the second marks on the sprockets, as they seem to be exactly one tooth out from the standard marks.
would retarding or advancing the valve timing by 1 tooth have any effect on the power output?
could be some weird jap import restriction method.......