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Nutter34
26th May 2010, 19:04
So, how many of you guys run without fairings?

Recently bought a Trademe special, not too sure about the model but kinda like the a115...

Anyway, noticed the fairings are really restrictive when it comes to turning circle etc.

mohawk
26th May 2010, 20:01
You dont need hardly any steering, just position the brake levers so they dont rub too much and try it.

Ray LeCheminant
26th May 2010, 20:20
Lean it mate, don't steer it

We run fairings on all of out bikes

spookytooth
26th May 2010, 20:32
Real bikes don't have fairyings

grantman
26th May 2010, 21:07
I dont think I go fast enough to really use the effect of a fairing.
But they do look cool.
Took mine off as it was easier to work on and didnt get around to putting it back on.

Gadgit
26th May 2010, 21:32
I run them on my euro but not on the daytona mod.

imdying
26th May 2010, 21:35
Yes, we like to use them because we're all GP fans. However, one of our mates never does, as he crashes a lot and doesn't see the point. Our little Chch race series will include 1 free point per race if you have a GP (or WSB, which is a nod to Charles' gorgeous little 916 replica Blata 2.5) replica of some sort, even if it's the factory plastics paint job, as we want to encourage the field to look like a little GP race.

I have found that front fairing catches on the handle bars when I have them spread far enough for me to operate the bike comfortably (I'm 180cm ish). To combat that, we have remounted the fairing about 50mm or so forward.

The other reason is, on the Daytona reps like you undoubtedly have (everyone else does), when the side fairing mounts hit the ground enough they break off. That's not so bad, you can weld them back on or replace them, but when they break off, they take a hunk of the inner frame rail with them, which is kinda bad.

My advice would be to get your bars where you like them, then remount the fairing to suit. You'll to make a replacement front bracket and the two side pieces. That will let you angle grind off (do the side stand if it's still there, it just drags on the ground) the two side brackets before they get a chance to crack the frame.

The stupid chrome plastic frame bits need to go, then you can use the rear mount (of the 4 rivnuts in the frame rail that they bolt to) to bolt your new side mount to.

We've made all three brackets from about 3mm alloy bar about 50mm wide. The front one is made from a couple of parts, a bracket for the headstock, the stay, and the fairing mount. Those parts are all welded together with Durafix rod, which you can get off trademe, and requires either an oxy/gas plant, or even just a MAPP torch (Bunnings, Weldwell?). The side ones are just strageically bent in a vice and drilled.

This will make the bike considerably more crash resistant. One other thing we have tried on one bike is to fill the top fairing with medium weight chopped strand mat (fibreglass) and vinylester resin (resistant to chemical attack, ala petrol). This increased the weight of the fairing a bit, but you can now stand on it... or more importantly for taller guys, sit on the tail as a new seat. This pretty much makes that indestructible. Perhaps it braces the chasis a little, but we haven't put enough miles on it to find out. It's looking effective enough to do to all the bikes, and perhaps the side fairings, although if they're mounted well they actually crash pretty good (the ZPF is another story, the plastic is considerably crappier, worth it for the rest of the bike though).

If Phil comes along, he might have some pics.

CookMySock
26th May 2010, 21:47
Fairings are a pain in the ass. The very first thing we did was take all the fairings off and make a big pile of plastic.

Steve

Nutter34
26th May 2010, 22:06
Hahaha.

Thanks for the different answers.

Yeah, a whole bunch of us bought them together. Some guys are running naked, others with fairings. Mines without, simply because we've been tinkering a bit to get them running. Main jets keep clogging, fuel filter going in. Exhaust brackets braking, new one went on, etc. It's just been easier without the fairings. Maybe when it runs more reliably, I'll refit them. Then again, I was actually considering doing a 'bikini fairing'... Just to be different...

Thanks again.

CookMySock
27th May 2010, 09:49
Mines without, simply because we've been tinkering a bit to get them running. Main jets keep clogging, fuel filter going in. Exhaust brackets braking, new one went on, etc. It's just been easier without the fairings. Maybe when it runs more reliably, I'll refit them.Chinese pocketbike "run more reliably" ? How do you mean? :lol:

Steve

Nutter34
27th May 2010, 12:33
You funny guy...

888mike
27th May 2010, 16:15
The amount of muckin around you do with Daytona's it pays to leave the fearings off plus it's less stuff to pick up when you bin them.lol hope you get as much enjoyment out of them as my family and i get, good luck. Mike

Nutter34
27th May 2010, 18:32
Thanks.

Yip, we've had fun already. With a bunch of us, there have been several different issues...

Brake caliper guide pin coming out.
Brake caliper adjuster bolts loose.
Exhaust brackets breaking.
Exhaust mount bolts falling out.
Starter bolt coming out, causing the spring to come out.
Seriously out of whack wheel-allignment, causing chains to come off.
One rear tyre exploded.
Exhaust silencers pretty much cracked all the way around the welds.


After that, just heaps of clogged jets really. We are debating whether the stock fuel filter is degrading, or whether it's the fuel tap on the carb breaking down.. We'll see. We've got new fuel filters going in. That and new plugs...

All fun and games without costing a fortune...

Tink
27th May 2010, 18:35
I was having a blonde moment when I saw the thread title, and thought who would go naked in this weather... ATTGATTANN!!!

imdying
27th May 2010, 18:37
Brake caliper guide pin coming out.
Brake caliper adjuster bolts loose.Some are better than others, try to get the one with the dual adjuster pins.

Exhaust brackets breaking.
Exhaust mount bolts falling out.Make a mount the muffler as well as replacing the rear mount.

Starter bolt coming out, causing the spring to come out.That's a new one on me!

Seriously out of whack wheel-allignment, causing chains to come off.Buy some thick walled steel tubing and make new spacers of the right sizes. Replace the chains with DID or other quality item. Wilson Bros is where we get them.

One rear tyre exploded.Yikes, PMT time!

Exhaust silencers pretty much cracked all the way around the welds.Lovely aren't they :no:

We are debating whether the stock fuel filter is degradingMust be, we don't use them and don't block jets.

Ray LeCheminant
27th May 2010, 18:47
Yikes, PMT time!
.

or WOW - SAVA Time ..:Punk:

imdying
27th May 2010, 18:59
Haven't had the pleasure yet, but looking forward to comparing them :yes:

daz71
27th May 2010, 19:08
you take your fairing off mike only for the weight thing lol

{.bLanK}G_o_D
27th May 2010, 19:30
Seriously out of whack wheel-allignment, causing chains to come off.

This is how I do it.

#1 Loosen off rear wheel, rear brake caliper and bracket, rear exhaust mount, loosen 4 bottom engine bolts and remove the single top engine mount bolt (so your motor will jiggle around) remove chain.
#2 Adjust rear wheel all the way forward and semi tighten.
#3 Hold a straight edge (longer than the wheelbase of the bike) against the side of the front tyre firmly. Now while holding the straight edge on the tyre, move the bars side to side, the straight edge will move with it. Now when the straight edge touches the side of the rear tyre, you can measure how "True" you wheels are running. Remember the front tyre is narrower than the back so allow for that when truing the rear. Hold the straight edge on both sides of the bike to check.
#4 Adjust rear wheel so both front and rear are running true. (pointing the same way)
#5 Now the wheels are true, hold a smaller straight edge across the side of the rear sprocket (providing it's not bent) and now you can true your sprockets.
#6 Move motor on it's loosened mounts until the sprockets are running true.
#7 Tighten 4 bottom engine mount bolts first, check sprockets are true again, now you will probably need to space the top engine mount bolt before tightening it up.
#8 Put chain back on. When adjusting the chain, ignore the position of the adjusters, eye the chain up so it runs straight.

Now your wheels and sprockets are running true there will be less wear on tyres, sprockets and chains, less friction from wheels pointing in different directions which equals GO FASTER. Win Win IMHO.

Did anybody not understand that? Maybe I'll write a tutorial for the forum.


:Punk:

Junkers
28th May 2010, 01:24
I ride naked, feels much more natural.

Genie
28th May 2010, 06:44
I ride naked, feels much more natural.

damn chilly at the mo, don't you think?

888mike
28th May 2010, 10:07
The other thing with the shit in the carb, if you drain the fuel after racing and don't use the tap on the carb as they break down and you end up with bits of rubber and plastic in the bowl. I have even drilled down through the tap so you get free flow through to the carb.

imdying
28th May 2010, 10:16
Screw those ghey little carbs and they're attrocious fuel tap rubbers!

I've sorted out some quick disconnects, some tygon fuel line, some inline fuel taps, and some genuine Dellorto carbs... sorted!

Ok yes the fuel system now costs twice what I paid for the entire bike, but you can't take it with ya!

Nutter34
28th May 2010, 12:50
Some are better than others, try to get the one with the dual adjuster pins.
Make a mount the muffler as well as replacing the rear mount.
That's a new one on me!
Buy some thick walled steel tubing and make new spacers of the right sizes. Replace the chains with DID or other quality item. Wilson Bros is where we get them.
Yikes, PMT time!
Lovely aren't they :no:
Must be, we don't use them and don't block jets.

Well, one guy had his brake caliper guide pin come out within five minutes. After that, EVERYONE did the Locktite mod on those and the adjuster bolt.
As for the exhaust, yip, we've got some 'spare' plate lying around, so done brackets for security.

Heard a new one last night. One guy doesn't have threads in his cylinder, where the exhaust bolts up... He's been having issues with his exhaust coming loose. He's using a nut to hold it in, lol.

As for the fuel filter, we cut the stock one open. Pretty much a piece of gauze. Oh, there was a small magnet inside too. Anyway, two of us are now running new filters, so it'll be good to see. In fact, the other guy had issues with running. It turns out, he replaced his hoses and they were a tad long. The bottom hose made a big turn, higher than the filter. It had a big air bubble in it. (Clear hose, so we could see it). He would run out of fuel on speed runs. So, we fiddled some and got the air bubble out, all sorted.

Thanks for the other suggestions. Will follow them up.

imdying
28th May 2010, 12:57
Well, one guy had his brake caliper guide pin come out within five minutes. After that, EVERYONE did the Locktite mod on those and the adjuster bolt.Waah, shouldn't the circlip on the other side stop it from coming out though? Mind you, I've had the retainer for that circlip grind itself off on a disc :whistle:

Heard a new one last night. One guy doesn't have threads in his cylinder, where the exhaust bolts up... He's been having issues with his exhaust coming loose. He's using a nut to hold it in, lol.Hahahah, Phil had that, tapped it out to M8x1.25... now he has to do the other one too!

It turns out, he replaced his hoses and they were a tad long. The bottom hose made a big turn, higher than the filter. It had a big air bubble in it. (Clear hose, so we could see it). He would run out of fuel on speed runs. So, we fiddled some and got the air bubble out, all sorted.Hahahah, nice.

Thanks for the other suggestions. Will follow them up.I'll make a place to stick all of these things with pictures, then we can share and compare notes. Only thing worse than being let down on a days racing would be to travel and be let down. You guys should rock on down if you've got a van!

Nutter34
28th May 2010, 13:00
This is how I do it.

#1 Loosen off rear wheel, rear brake caliper and bracket, rear exhaust mount, loosen 4 bottom engine bolts and remove the single top engine mount bolt (so your motor will jiggle around) remove chain.
#2 Adjust rear wheel all the way forward and semi tighten.
#3 Hold a straight edge (longer than the wheelbase of the bike) against the side of the front tyre firmly. Now while holding the straight edge on the tyre, move the bars side to side, the straight edge will move with it. Now when the straight edge touches the side of the rear tyre, you can measure how "True" you wheels are running. Remember the front tyre is narrower than the back so allow for that when truing the rear. Hold the straight edge on both sides of the bike to check.
#4 Adjust rear wheel so both front and rear are running true. (pointing the same way)
#5 Now the wheels are true, hold a smaller straight edge across the side of the rear sprocket (providing it's not bent) and now you can true your sprockets.
#6 Move motor on it's loosened mounts until the sprockets are running true.
#7 Tighten 4 bottom engine mount bolts first, check sprockets are true again, now you will probably need to space the top engine mount bolt before tightening it up.
#8 Put chain back on. When adjusting the chain, ignore the position of the adjusters, eye the chain up so it runs straight.

Now your wheels and sprockets are running true there will be less wear on tyres, sprockets and chains, less friction from wheels pointing in different directions which equals GO FASTER. Win Win IMHO.

Did anybody not understand that? Maybe I'll write a tutorial for the forum.


:Punk:

That's good info. I actually hadn't thought about loosening the motor mounts when doing it. Will have a look. We've done the wheel allignment though, ignoring the marks. Seems most of the bikes had the rear wheels pointing way left.

Nutter34
28th May 2010, 13:09
Waah, shouldn't the circlip on the other side stop it from coming out though? Mind you, I've had the retainer for that circlip grind itself off on a disc :whistle:

There are two mounting points. The adjusable and the guide. The guide is pretty much just a screw. It was this one that came out.


Hahahah, Phil had that, tapped it out to M8x1.25... now he has to do the other one too!
Hahahah, nice.
I'll make a place to stick all of these things with pictures, then we can share and compare notes. Only thing worse than being let down on a days racing would be to travel and be let down. You guys should rock on down if you've got a van!

Yeah, I'm surprised there isn't a sticky on basic start-up/things to do... We're all mechanically inclined, so we fiddle anyway, lol.

One guy had his bike running like 10 minutes and he'd already taken to his clutch springs... Just a tweak, to get them engaging a tad quicker... A few guys have done that now too...

Mmm. We'll see about a trip down. Sounds good though. We'll need a bit more practice, otherwise we'd just be road blocks, lol. We don't actuall have a track. We've just been blatting up and down. We used a few road cones the other night for a small track but not again since...

As for the other fuel line mods... We'll get there. Only had the bike just over a week now... LOTS of time to play, lol.

imdying
28th May 2010, 13:13
There are two mounting points. The adjusable and the guide. The guide is pretty much just a screw. It was this one that came out.Ahhh, yeah, the two adjuster ones are the best :yes:

One guy had his bike running like 10 minutes and he'd already taken to his clutch springs... Just a tweak, to get them engaging a tad quicker... A few guys have done that now too...Haven't gotten into that yet, would be keen to hear how you're doing it :yes:

Mmm. We'll see about a trip down. Sounds good though. We'll need a bit more practice, otherwise we'd just be road blocks, lol. We don't actuall have a track. We've just been blatting up and down. We used a few road cones the other night for a small track but not again since...Naw, a couple of our guys are getting quick, but mostly we just putt around :) There's a shop here in Chch that sells stacks of soccer practice cones, about $0.50 each, Phil will be along with the details, I think we have about 300 now.

Keep all your old tyres too, we're painting them all white with red stripes, and would love some more.

Nutter34
28th May 2010, 13:22
The clutch mod... It's a bit gash but...

Remove the outer assembly so you access to the clutch springs etc, still on the bike. What the guys have done, is to shove a flat screwdriver into the spring, say half way. What this does, is to tweak the spring, since it's soft and make it a fraction longer, maybe 0.5mm to 1mm. It just means it takes a tad lower in the revs. Refit everything.

I've definately heard the difference between the bikes. Before the mod, the bikes would scream and eventually get up to speed. With the tweak, you can hear the motor spin up, clutch engages, the motor bogs just a tad then speeds up. It just engages earlier... Better for drive out of the corners too.

Hope that's a sufficient description...

Okay, I'll let the guys know to keep the tyres. We can use them for that too, lol.

{.bLanK}G_o_D
28th May 2010, 13:28
Yip my brake caliper guide pin has come out and been loctighted back in.
Cones like ours you can buy online from a Christchurch store here "Soccer Direct (http://www.soccerdirect.co.nz/proddetail.asp?prod=CE003&cat=4)"

Nutter34
28th May 2010, 13:30
Yip my brake caliper guide pin has come out and been loctighted back in.
Cones like ours you can buy online from a Christchurch store here "Soccer Direct (http://www.soccerdirect.co.nz/proddetail.asp?prod=CE003&cat=4)"

Lol, it's the first thing we tell the guys to do...

Sweet. Thanks for the link.

I did see them in the vid where he broke his collar bone. Makes for a good guide.

imdying
28th May 2010, 13:36
The clutch mod... It's a bit gash but...It's a Chinese pocket bike, the whole freakin bike is gash!

Remove the outer assembly so you access to the clutch springs etc, still on the bike. What the guys have done, is to shove a flat screwdriver into the spring, say half way. What this does, is to tweak the spring, since it's soft and make it a fraction longer, maybe 0.5mm to 1mm. It just means it takes a tad lower in the revs. Refit everything.Oh yeah, that'll lengthen it... I'll get onto that!

{.bLanK}G_o_D
28th May 2010, 13:38
Mmmmm gash

Nutter34
28th May 2010, 13:43
It's a Chinese pocket bike, the whole freakin bike is gash!

Um, yeah, true, lol...

Nutter34
29th May 2010, 17:21
So, it's done... It's now a streetfighter, lol...

daz71
29th May 2010, 17:29
nice little bike mate i see you still have ya stand and steel foot pegs on .

Nutter34
29th May 2010, 17:35
nice little bike mate i see you still have ya stand and steel foot pegs on .

Yeah, we haven't had reason to cut them off yet. Only had it a week and a half, so still sorting out the bugs, lol.

Nutter34
30th May 2010, 02:43
Well, had a wee crash tonight and it snapped the stand off... So that's gone now, lol...