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holdfasthope
7th July 2011, 13:53
Hi all,
I've had my Bandit 250 for about 3 months now, and I'm loving it! I think I've only had to put gas in it 4/5 times... Having a bike rules.
Now it's getting about time to throw some oil in it, just wondering what everyone recommends? It says to use 10W 40, but should I get mineral, semi or synthetic? And which brands are the best?
Thanks in advance

blackdog
7th July 2011, 13:54
Used oil from a deep frier will be fine. It's only a 250.

maggot
7th July 2011, 13:55
Hi all,
I've had my Bandit 250 for about 3 months now, and I'm loving it! I think I've only had to put gas in it 4/5 times... Having a bike rules.
Now it's getting about time to throw some oil in it, just wondering what everyone recommends? It says to use 10W 40, but should I get mineral, semi or synthetic? And which brands are the best?
Thanks in advance

Four or five times! Geeze that's nice! What's your fuel economy like?

ducatilover
7th July 2011, 14:00
Motul 4T 5100 is good value for money and I have run it in many bikes with no problems.

holdfasthope
7th July 2011, 14:08
Four or five times! Geeze that's nice! What's your fuel economy like?

200ks on $25 of '91 around town... Haven't taken it for a decent smash on the open road yet so I couldn't tell you what that's like.

It's great not having to take my car everywhere, in fact I've pretty much given it to my sister unless I have to carry stuff somewhere, eg band practice once a week...

Quasievil
7th July 2011, 14:33
Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10w-40 is the best, the rest just try to be.

Motig
7th July 2011, 14:44
Repco's got 20% off at moment (while stock lasts). Castrol GPS 4T.

actungbaby
27th July 2011, 22:40
i was wondering that myself been out bikes good few years
10 40 sounds good motorcycles harder on the oil as the gearbox and engine the one unit usually good mineral oil be great , i used to use castrol oil and in bigger engine cb 750 used gtx athough i heard that chould cause little clutch slip as was designed for cars as well and they have dry clutchs
main thing change the oil reg and i did the oil filter ever second change of the oil
remember to buy new sump washer also better to fit new one not expensive
that way you keep the bolt nice tight and no problems
also warm your bike up or go round block get the engine warm then drain the old oil
it drain better and ur get more the old stuff out, even just idle bike for few minutes
dont get to hot the oil i mean u dont burn your hands, try not drop the bolt in which i sually do into the contaner i used to use 3 little ice cream container.
dont do what i did once forget to put the drain bolt back hehe oh what mess i was going gee oil not filling up then looked on ground


Hi all,
I've had my Bandit 250 for about 3 months now, and I'm loving it! I think I've only had to put gas in it 4/5 times... Having a bike rules.
Now it's getting about time to throw some oil in it, just wondering what everyone recommends? It says to use 10W 40, but should I get mineral, semi or synthetic? And which brands are the best?
Thanks in advance

LBD
28th July 2011, 00:25
The best oil or....the best oil for your situation?

ie ask yourself how long you will keep a 250cc bike for? If the answer is only a year or two at the most and you will not be clocking up high miles then just going with a recognized name brand that complies with the bikes OEM recommendation is all you need. If you are looking at high miles and long life and or hard use then consider one of the premium full synthetic oils out there.

As Actung Baby says....regular oil changes that get rid of the contaminants in the used oil and regular filter changes are probably more important than the quality of the oil.

Owl
28th July 2011, 07:19
Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10w-40 is the best, the rest just try to be.

I thought only 15W-50 was available here? Has that changed?

Quasievil
28th July 2011, 08:00
I thought only 15W-50 was available here? Has that changed?

Yes 15W-50 is history, it is now a 10W-40 going forward dude.
Available at Repco now to

Mobil Extra Semi Synthetic 10W-40 available from mid August:yes:

Quasievil
28th July 2011, 08:02
regular oil changes that get rid of the contaminants in the used oil and regular filter changes are probably more important than the quality of the oil.

Not really dude, a good quality Oil will lubricate the engine quicker at cold start up than a poor oil, start up is when most engine wear occurs, especially in cold conditions as we have now.

Owl
28th July 2011, 12:19
Yes 15W-50 is history, it is now a 10W-40 going forward dude.

That is good news! Guess I'll keep the 15W-50 for the Bonne and get some 10W-40 for the Triple:yes:

The Everlasting
28th July 2011, 15:06
Used oil from a deep frier will be fine. It's only a 250.

You've got it the wrong way round,250's do much higher revs than big bikes,so you should make sure you have a decent oil in there.

blackdog
28th July 2011, 17:19
You've got it the wrong way round,250's do much higher revs than big bikes,so you should make sure you have a decent oil in there.

That woosh you heard was the sarcasm flying right by.

mrchips
28th July 2011, 17:29
Haven't taken it for a decent smash on the open road yet.

I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to do that !

Castrol Power 1 GPS 10W-40. It's semi synthetic. I get it from supercheap & used in both my bikes..... haven't blown up yet so must be o.k.

They have a cheaper castrol 4t dino oil if you are running it in.

LBD
30th July 2011, 20:28
Not really dude, a good quality Oil will lubricate the engine quicker at cold start up than a poor oil, start up is when most engine wear occurs, especially in cold conditions as we have now.

Quality of the oil has nothing to do with how fast oil circulates around a cold engine, fluidity is descrbed by the visosity and viscosity index, and if that is something you are conerned about, check out the pour point of any chosen oils....I happily use 15W40 oils to minus 25C....any lower and we use crankcase heaters.

Quasievil
30th July 2011, 21:08
Quality of the oil has nothing to do with how fast oil circulates around a cold engine, fluidity is descrbed by the visosity and viscosity index, and if that is something you are conerned about, check out the pour point of any chosen oils....I happily use 15W40 oils to minus 25C....any lower and we use crankcase heaters.

A component of a good quality oil IS how fast it can circulate around a cold engine.........there are other components also of course, are you saying that a high viscosity oil gets around a cold engine as fast as a low viscosity ?
and if you are then sorry youre very incorrect.

bsasuper
31st July 2011, 07:52
I now use mobil 1 4t 10-40, now that it is easier to get (repco)

Quasievil
31st July 2011, 07:56
I now use mobil 1 4t 10-40, now that it is easier to get (repco)

Cewl, thats my account, they wanted all Car stuff I said hey here is an idea lets do some Mobil 1 4T woo hooo, you can get V twin there to now as well

mrchips
31st July 2011, 08:18
I now use mobil 1 4t 10-40, now that it is easier to get (repco)

How much is mobil 1 ?

Owl
31st July 2011, 10:09
I now use mobil 1 4t 10-40, now that it is easier to get (repco)

Repco would always get it in if you asked!

TimeOut
1st August 2011, 06:49
How much is mobil 1 ?

Repco = $100 for 4l $80 on CRT

LBD
15th August 2011, 16:59
A component of a good quality oil IS how fast it can circulate around a cold engine..........

Quality has nothing to do with how fast an oil circulates...that factor is purely a function of viscosity and viscosity index. A "low quality oil" that is low viscosity will pump around a cold engine faster than a premium oil of a higher viscosity.

And of course a heavier viscosity pumps around an engine slower... which is a factor in cold start ups. as I said, I use 15W40 to minus 25C, but rarely do we shut down an engine and allow the engine to chill to minus 25C

Quasievil
15th August 2011, 17:34
Quality has nothing to do with how fast an oil circulates...that factor is purely a function of viscosity and viscosity index. A "low quality oil" that is low viscosity will pump around a cold engine faster than a premium oil of a higher viscosity.

And of course a heavier viscosity pumps around an engine slower... which is a factor in cold start ups. as I said, I use 15W40 to minus 25C, but rarely do we shut down an engine and allow the engine to chill to minus 25C

Not entirely correct their are other factors here that need to be considered to

a lower quality oil can become thicker than a quality oil of an equivalent viscosity grade at a low temperature, there fore slower to circulate and lubricate an engine this would be partly due to the additive package in that particular oil.
Also a low quality oil will have a quicker oxidation process than a high quality oil, these will also affect the lubrication performance at engine start up.
Degradation of Oil is different for a variety of reasons, partly the engine itself and partly due to the additive package of the oil.



its not just about viscosity

awa355
15th August 2011, 17:47
Cewl, thats my account, they wanted all Car stuff I said hey here is an idea lets do some Mobil 1 4T woo hooo, you can get V twin there to now as well

I was in Repco's in Te Awamutu today. They had Mobil 1 V twin oil ( full synthetic )for about $27.L. It is a 20w/50 grade. Would 20/50 be suited for the tempertures here in the Waikato?

20w/50 is one of the oil weights listed in my handbook rated for 0c - 50c range. 3 litres would cover a oil/filter change on my cruiser and is not much dearer than the Castrol semi 10w/40 $64.00.

Quasievil
15th August 2011, 17:55
I was in Repco's in Te Awamutu today. They had Mobil 1 V twin oil ( full synthetic )for about $27.L. It is a 20w/50 grade. Would 20/50 be suited for the tempertures here in the Waikato?

20w/50 is one of the oil weights listed in my handbook rated for 0c - 50c range. 3 litres would cover a oil/filter change on my cruiser and is not much dearer than the Castrol semi 10w/40 $64.00.

Hi yeah no problems.
it only comes in one grade also that being 20W-50
get a quality oil filter to mate i.e genuine part or a good aftermarket one.

Owl
15th August 2011, 17:59
get a quality oil filter to mate i.e genuine part or a good aftermarket one.

Are the Mobil 1 filters available here? If not, they should be!

Quasievil
15th August 2011, 18:24
Are the Mobil 1 filters available here? If not, they should be!

We dont do filters mate sorry
let me know how you get on tho ok.

LBD
15th August 2011, 19:06
a lower quality oil can become thicker

A new premuim oil and a new cheap oil, to the same API std with the same viscosity and viscosity index will emonstrate the same viscosity charactoristics over the range of operating temps.

What does change is how long an oil will maintain the stated viscosity. That is where quality comes in to play. Extreme service or extended service intervals will likely affect the VI of the lower quality oil sooner, that is why used oil anlysis includes a viscosity check to advise how well the oil is coping with its work load.

at the end of the day it is the correct viscosity of the oil in service that maintains the film thickness

FruitLooPs
16th August 2011, 15:52
A new premuim oil and a new cheap oil, to the same API std with the same viscosity and viscosity index will emonstrate the same viscosity charactoristics over the range of operating temps.

What does change is how long an oil will maintain the stated viscosity. That is where quality comes in to play. Extreme service or extended service intervals will likely affect the VI of the lower quality oil sooner, that is why used oil anlysis includes a viscosity check to advise how well the oil is coping with its work load.

at the end of the day it is the correct viscosity of the oil in service that maintains the film thickness

Pretty much this :ride:

I've heard good things about the mobil-1 v-twin product from bikers overseas.

Just keep to good change intervals, good filters don't run it hard until its fully up to temp on a motorcycle specific oil of the weight specified and you shouldn't run into any issues. You can run non-bike specific oils if you know the various standards and avoid any oils which contain friction modifiers etc. I believe bike oils are designed with pretty decent shear strength compared to some cheaper car oils (some people run rotella t synthetic diesel oil overseas because of the properties to price value). Not sure if ours is the same stuff though so I stick to bike oils.

awa355
16th August 2011, 16:38
Listing #: 399471351 on Td me.

Anyone ever tried one of these? And no, I'm not going to. Have my genuine Yammy filter in hand.