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smmudd83_1999
15th June 2012, 12:04
Hi all!

So, I just bought myself a SV thou equipped with a scottoiler. Very handy. But I laughed myself sore when I witnessed the price of the OEM top up oil.

The average Joe without a scottoiler would probably use a chain lube - a higher viscosity oil that sticks a bit to the chain to avoid being flung clean off as it whirls around. It doesn't have to be anything too trick - it's not really a high pressure or high temperature environment.

Some people even report using expired oil from the sump to lube a chain - it would still lubricate the chain, though to do so adequately would no doubt result in a bit of rear wheel muck! - I think the impurities the oil collects and the polymer chains broken through engine use would not affect the lubricating properties adversely enough to be unable to lube a chain, though extensive use in your engine & gearbox might be detrimental with prolonged use which is why we change it fairly frequently.

I've even heard of folk using chainsaw chain lube and even vegetable fat!

BUT back to the scottoiler - I'm assuming a high viscosity engine oil would suffice? I'm guessing due to the low-ish temperature application it wouldn't even have to be multigrade? The drip feed rate would need to be adjusted to suit, I guess.

Further discussion is invited. I'm intrigued to hear of other people's experience.

Gremlin
15th June 2012, 12:14
Always used scottoil myself (didn't really think it that expensive either)... I think I've seen comments from others that have tried other stuff that it gunks up the scottoil system...

p.dath
15th June 2012, 12:34
I had a bike with a Scott Oiler on it. A prior owner used non-OEM oil in it. From the colour, it looked like they had used some garden variety engine oil in it.

Anyway, the Scott Oiler lubricated the chain fine, but when the bike was parked up over night I used to come back in the morning and find a small amount of leaked oil on the ground. After a few weeks of parking in the same place it became quite noticable (the leak on the ground).


I took it in for the local bike shop to look at it. They said someone had not used the proper OEM oil, it had fucked the seals in the unit, and it was so expensive to fix I would be better off throwing it away. So I just stuck to oiling my chain the normal way.



Use the OEM oil. It is the *cheap* option.

CookMySock
15th June 2012, 12:37
I use auto trans fluid. It stinks a bit, and you will need to recalibrate the oiler, but it works ok.

smmudd83_1999
15th June 2012, 13:01
"They said someone had not used the proper OEM oil, it had fucked the seals in the unit, and it was so expensive to fix I would be better off throwing it away. So I just stuck to oiling my chain the normal way."

You make a good point, sir - some lubricants will be a harsher chemical than others and will probably eat seals like an eskimo. Though as I said about using a straight sloppy grade engine oil it wouldn't eat those seals otherwise we'd all be fooked come service time? But your input is invaluable -I will strike chainsaw lube off the list!

And..."I use auto trans fluid. It stinks a bit, and you will need to recalibrate the oiler, but it works ok"...sounds like a good bet. Gearbox oils are high viscosity and are obviously non-reactive with seals.

".. I think I've seen comments from others that have tried other stuff that it gunks up the scottoil system..." No doubt. Kiwi ingenuity is often a bit hit and miss. Experimentation required!

Good stuff, keep it coming!

boman
15th June 2012, 13:12
I had one on my old SV. A bottle lasted me two years, 30,000kms. I didn't think that was bad economy. Worked bloody fine it did. I wish there was a place on the Daytona to mount one too..

Dodgy
15th June 2012, 14:52
There is a lot of info out there on this. I use ATF with a small amount of chain bar oil. Havent had the seals fail yet

GrayWolf
15th June 2012, 18:02
I had one on my old SV. A bottle lasted me two years, 30,000kms. I didn't think that was bad economy. Worked bloody fine it did. I wish there was a place on the Daytona to mount one too..

not sure how much room you'd have.... but the scottoiler website often has recommended mounting sites.... on the MT its under the seat in the tool roll space. Yes it is semi 'recubant' lol.

banditrider
15th June 2012, 18:52
I use auto trans fluid. It stinks a bit, and you will need to recalibrate the oiler, but it works ok.


There is a lot of info out there on this. I use ATF with a small amount of chain bar oil. Havent had the seals fail yet

A lot of people seem to recommend ATF - thinking of running it next time I need to top up.

GrayWolf
15th June 2012, 19:05
This guy did some 'testing' of chainbar oil.... seems only the Stihl synthetic oil was a viable alternative

http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

seems ATF could be a very strong option too

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ScottoilerClassicFAQ.htm

Morcs
16th June 2012, 12:09
2 bikes i bought recent both came with scott oilers. Both are now in my bin.

But then again I havent failed to grasp the concept of using an aerosol to spray my chain.

John_H
16th June 2012, 13:24
Stop being such a friggin cheap arse!! It lasts ages!!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/chains-sprockets/auction-483406633.htm

paturoa
16th June 2012, 14:00
I've got an auto-oiler (not a scott oiler and can't remember the brand) I use 140 gearbox oil that I get from super-creep auto for a fraction of the price of official auto-oiler stuff. I'm also very tempted to try some of my chain saw bar oil for the next refill.

HenryDorsetCase
16th June 2012, 14:45
lard or bacon fat.

bsasuper
16th June 2012, 20:46
Get rid of it and use maxima chain wax, job done

caspernz
16th June 2012, 20:56
Hi all!

So, I just bought myself a SV thou equipped with a scottoiler. Very handy. But I laughed myself sore when I witnessed the price of the OEM top up oil.

Further discussion is invited. I'm intrigued to hear of other people's experience.

Just buy the Scottoiler oil you cheapskate. :eek::laugh::doh::facepalm:

The big bottle costs about $20 and lasts at least 25,000km if the oiler is set correctly. You'll spend lots more on any other chainlube stuff in that distance. As for trying other concoctions, I'm a born and bred Dutchie, and even I can see the difference between price and cost. Chains and sprockets go much further as well, but then big picture thinking is lost on some huh?:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

smmudd83_1999
25th June 2012, 12:54
I'm perfectly aware of the big picture. I'm aware of the long-lasting benefits of a Scottoiler. I'm aware that I will get my money back in the long run. And yes, i am aware that I should use Scottoiler OEM oil in a Scottoiler. I understand the "big picture" thinking,..
but this is, as I opened, a discussion regarding altenatives. A scientific exploration, if you will. Like-mided folks will not take kindly to being called "cheapskates". If I have pondered this then someone out there might also find this useful.

Thank you for your comment.

zippy
30th June 2012, 23:51
"But I laughed myself sore when I witnessed the price of the OEM top up oil.:"

i am guessing that other posters and even myself thought as this is in the opening line of your thread that cost was the main reason for discussing alternatives.

I googled the same question and there are plently of other bike related forums with this already asked.

You may find some of there answers of use.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125237

Spuds1234
1st July 2012, 00:49
Im using chainsaw bar oil in my Scott Oiler. Have been for the last 20 000kms. Cost me $10 for a liter of the stuff which was way cheaper than the Scott Oil ($30 for 750ml).

Sure I had to dick about with the settings on the oiler to get it flowing right, and yea in summer you do need to turn the oiler down a bit, but other than that I have had 0 problems.

A bit of muck on the rear wheel is something I can definitely live with, especially when you consider how much easier the oiler is to use and I've never hand a problem with my oiler dripping from the rear sprocket (only the front due to oil flinging off the front sprocket).

After using a Scott Oiler I'd never go back to chain lube unless I really had to. The oiler works way better.

Flip
1st July 2012, 21:02
Don't use vege oil or animal fat. Two reasons they oxidise and become acidic and when they continue to oxidise they turn into a varnish which is a bugger to get off.

Snails pace
3rd July 2012, 07:13
I have used chainbar oil for the last 4 years (100k) and the scottoiler is still going strong. like previous comments I have had to adjust the oiler, more or less, depending on time of year.