Suzuki RF900 Flatspot

[Chookah]

I am not particularly worried about this but I might just mention it as it may be abnormal.
I have recently bought a 2000 RF with about 22k (14 mile) on it, good nick and all the rest.
Goes well but it has a slight flat spot between 3 and 4 grand. This doesn't matter much as once out of town those rev's become immaterial, and it certainly goes well enough everywhere else.

Any comments or thoughts? It may just be that, as this is the smallest capacity bike I have ridden for years, I will have to get used to it.

[F5 Dave]

As a starter I'd put a hotter thermostat in it which will help it warm up faster & further helping carburetion, but not decrease the ability to cool, ie: shouldn’t over heat any easier in traffic re last post. Do a search (also link in last post) & I have specified the thermostat I used & how to modify it.

Other than that RFs seem pretty touchy on float height. I raised mine so the bike didn’t stall up real steep low speed hills, but lowered it again in between as it was a bit rich.

I also run a Factory jetting kit which is quite nice for throttle response. But a 900 isn't an 1100.

[imdying]

As a starter I'd put a hotter thermostat in it which will help it warm up faster & further helping carburetion, but not decrease the ability to cool, ie: shouldn’t over heat any easier in traffic re last post.How would that help it warm up faster? And how would having a thermostat that opens later not decrease its ability to cool?

[Chookah]

Thanks F5 Dave
Actually a good point about the float levels, I should check these.
I should have thought of that, but it is a while since I have owned anything with carby's

Also you say you have a Factory Pro jet kit. Would that be part no. CRB-S79-1.0?
If so does it have a noticeable effect in the low to mid range?

And... I think you mention elsewhere that you have installed an ignition advance kit. Can you tell me how effective that was (and what kit you actually fitted, i.e another of Factory's products?)

And.......where you bought it all from - direct from FactoryPro via the net?

[F5 Dave]

1. The std thermo has 4 extra holes drilled right through it which means it takes forever to warm up & runs bloody cold. I think this is a crude attempt to get it to pass more water but it's just dumb. Once the temp is past the point where the thermo is fully open & they do distort quite a lot when they get real hot starting a little earlier will only give you as long as it takes to warm that temp diff extra, maybe 20seconds. Really the prob is the fan needs to come on in traffic, just like a car, not the thermo. Got the idea of changing the thermo from the Factory site.

2. I bought the std factory jet kit, whatever that was + some emulsion tubes as mine were worn slightly oval. Just called & gave my no. Pretty simple to deal with if you can understand the language. I understand it is close to english:innocent: .

What helped the most I don't know I had commited the sin of doing all (jet, emuls tubes & ign) at once. I advanced the ignition by slotting the pickup position & rotating it opposite to engine rotation. I intended to try it on the dyno but ran out of time & just worked on the jetting. May try it back std ign one day, it does pink a little under load in low revs, nothing to lose sleep over, just when you get lazy.

To be honest this is my touring bike so I aren't going to run 96/98 in it, I suspect the ig timing isn't worth changing.

[Chookah]

I pulled the carby's out of it tonight with a view to having a go at the float levels.
However too my surprise it has got height adjustable needles already. which is quite possibly good news as I now, once I have checked the floats, have something to fiddle with.

These needles have stamped on them 5DV1 then a picture of a square within a square. Does this mean anything to anybody?

Further comment on the thermostats.
The suzuki factory sevice manual for an RF900 (94 to 98) says that the thermostat should open between 75 - 79 degress and the fan should on/off at 105/100.

By comparison a Hayabusa (again from a factory manual) has 82 degrees for the thermostat and 105/100 for the fan.

Both seem quite low to me, but the RF especially so.

[F5 Dave]

Yeah if you search around the factory site (isn’t immediately obvious but in a questions area) he reckons Suzs of that era were too cool thermo.

The symbol you describe is Mikuni ie: std. it’s the shape that could be better not the adjustment up or down so much. Also check your emulsion tubes (that the needles slide into) for ovality, if that’s a word, and Bill Gates spell checker doesn’t agree with me it appears . Doesn’t take much to affect them.

[riffer]

What's the URL for the factory site Dave?

[F5 Dave]

factorypro.com

[Chookah]

Riffer, It appears that you have an RF there.
Do you have I slightly “off song” spot between 3 & 4k?

[Chookah]

F5 Dave,

Everything looks in fine shape, though I still haven’t checked the float levels yet.
The “oviality” or maybe the “ovalacalityessness” or otherwise of the emulsion tubes looks just fine to the extent that I would still call them “round”

[riffer]

Riffer, It appears that you have an RF there.
Do you have I slightly “off song” spot between 3 & 4k?

Not at all. It's a bit buzzy at 5-6000 rpm though.

Try this neat trick on an RF900.

Accelerate in first up to 7,000rpm. Shift back on the seat as you do this until your bum is up against the back of the front bit of the seat. Now close the throttle and push down. As it gets almost to the bottom of the suspension travel open the throttle wide open. Change up at will.

Clears the carbies nicely (and the cobwebs from your brain too.)

[Chookah]

The float levels were all over the place, but on average about 1.5mm higher than what they should have been.
Further to that the pilot screws were all over the place as well.
To give you an idea one carby had just 3/4 of a turn out while another had 2 turns out.

I reset the floats to 6.9mm and the pilot screws to 1 1/4 out, gave the whole show a good blow out and balanced them.

No fluffy spot between 3 and 4k now and the idling, though pretty good before, is now incredibly smooth.

Hard to say which was the main culprit, probably a bit of everything, but it is a good example of the wisdom of checking the basics first.

And just in case anyone is interested the carby's on mine are stamped with ID No. 31EA which means that they are for the UK, Netherlands and Italian market. Other markets with different ID No's have different pilot screw settings (though I see that all the float levels are the same)
This info comes from the Suzuki factory service manual.

[WINJA]

I pulled the carby's out of it tonight with a view to having a go at the float levels.
However too my surprise it has got height adjustable needles already. which is quite possibly good news as I now, once I have checked the floats, have something to fiddle with.

These needles have stamped on them 5DV1 then a picture of a square within a square. Does this mean anything to anybody?

Further comment on the thermostats.
The suzuki factory sevice manual for an RF900 (94 to 98) says that the thermostat should open between 75 - 79 degress and the fan should on/off at 105/100.

By comparison a Hayabusa (again from a factory manual) has 82 degrees for the thermostat and 105/100 for the fan.

Both seem quite low to me, but the RF especially so.

I HAD A 98 ZX9 WITH A SIMILAR FLAT SPOT , WORKED OUT IT WAS LEAN FOR EMMISION OR NOISE TESTING , I RAISED THE NEEDLES AND RICHENED IT UP , WITH A BACK TO BACK DYNO RUN IT GAINED 12HP IN THE MIDRANGE AND 6 UP TOP,I KNOW WHAT YOUR THINKING HOW CAN THE TOP END GET BETTER , WELL IT WAS SLIGHTLY LEAN AND NEEDLES DO HAVE A SLIGHT EFFECT ON TOP END AS WELL, PLAY AROUND YOU CANT LOSE , ALSO BE WARNED ABOUT YOUR ARSE DYNO CAUSE WHEN YOU TIDY UP THE MIDRANGE IT CAN MAKE THE TOP FEEL FLATTER SO USE A MATES BIKE TO DO RUNS OR A DYNO

[Mrs Busa Pete]

i had a 97 with a 2 brothers 4 into 1 no flat spots and the front poped up beter than my busa . the rf 900r is a very under rated bike

[Pussy]

The RW pommie spec RF900 you have is a good bike. The E02 model you have are the full power ones, even have higher cam lift than most of the RFs that came into the country( most were Canadian spec). I had one myself for 18 months. I agree that they are very under-rated. Ray Clee knows a lot about them, might be worth getting hold of him for advice

[Chookah]

I have my slight problem sorted now and it is a smooth as silk.

It is a astonishing the number of variations a manufacture has too put out to satisfy various local regulations. When you think about it their quiet uncomplaining compliance to these bureaucratic needs are admirable.

I see that the E28's (Canadian) have 7.3mm inlet lift against the E02 (UK) 8.7mm Quite a difference.
The exhausts are the same, though of course it is many times harder to suck than blow.

[riffer]

A number of the guys on the RF mailing list have tried and swear by the GSXR750 cams from the first of the water-cooled series...

Is there any definitive way to tell which model you have? I've seen RF900s with 190mph, 300km/hr and 180km/hr speedos...

[Pussy]

A number of the guys on the RF mailing list have tried and swear by the GSXR750 cams from the first of the water-cooled series...

Is there any definitive way to tell which model you have? I've seen RF900s with 190mph, 300km/hr and 180km/hr speedos...
I still have a factory service manual for the RF, if you can give me the id # from the carbs, I'm certain I can identify the model for you. There were different igniter boxes for different models, too.