Clutch problem with KRR-150

[vamr]

Have been having problems with finding neutral, engages fine with the engine off but refuses to engage while on. Has been progressively getting worse since I got it. Used to eventually engage to neutral from 2nd down but recently it won't even do that.

Going from 2nd to 1st doesn't sound too healthy either. Once in a while there is a decent CLUNK accompanying the downshift.

While in 3rd gear, when the bike is on the centre stand, with the clutch lever fully compressed the rear wheel spins like mad so I assume the clutch isn't disengaging.

At some point the bike has been dropped as the clutch lever is quite loose and doesn't recoil all the way back by itself (perhaps the cable got stretched?).

Do I need to replace the clutch cable or is there some adjustment I can do?

Any advice would be most appreciated.

[Ixion]

Don't know KRR150 specifically, but clutch cables usually have two adjustments, one where the cable connects to the clutch lever, the other where it connects to the engine (the latter may be hidden behind the engine cover) And sometimes a third inside the engine on the clutch itself.

Cables will stretch with time, it is normal to have to adjust them

Do yu have an owners manual, it should show you what to do. I suspect that the lever end adjustment is all that is required, it is very quick and simple.

[98tls]

sounds like a cable adjust thing but if not inspect plates........not familar with your bike but plates/steels wear out like everything else..........

[Big Dog]

At some point the bike has been dropped as the clutch lever is quite loose and doesn't recoil all the way back by itself (perhaps the cable got stretched?).


Sounds to me like lubing your cable is a much cheaper option.
If the cable housing is not damaged significantly but does carry some scaring the metal lining will rust where the kink is.

Splinting the kink and heating it with a hair dryer may help a little but ultimately you need to get some grease down the neck.

Can't afford an oiler only to find out you will need to replace the cable?
Try dripping some 3 - n - 1 or light machine oil in the top, see if this helps, if it does buy the luber. If it doesn't help at all replace the cable.

If it "creaks" noticeably after lubing replace it anyway as there will be some frayed cable under the kink and you are going to want to do it before you break it in the middle of nowhere.

[FilthyLuka]

err... how loose is the lever exactly? if the thing stretched, then chances are the clutch isnt disengaging all the way. try tighten the cable (via the turny adjustment doowhacky) and see if that helps

[vamr]

Thank you all for the suggestions.

I tightened the two adjustment points and it appears everything is sorted. Neutral engages without problems and the lever has full recoil.

As per Big Dog's advice I also oiled the cable which got rid off the squeeking when the lever is being engaged.

[FilthyLuka]

good man. glad to hear ya got it sorted... so when you gonna get some of them nifty two finger levers? :innocent:

[vamr]

good man. glad to hear ya got it sorted... so when you gonna get some of them nifty two finger levers? :innocent:

When I upgrade to a slightly smokier, smellier and more temperamental ride and designate the current for track days only :third:

[FilthyLuka]

When I upgrade to a slightly smokier, smellier and more temperamental ride and designate the current for track days only :third:

smokier and smellier than a krr150... you gettin a honda or something? :p

[imdying]

Cables do not stretch, they snap. You will of course have to adjust them with time, but that's either the outer wearing a groove, or the clutch itself wearing (no surprise, like brakes it's somewhat sacrifical in nature). Must be either the clutch or how it has been adjusted. Or perhaps the oil its running in?

[vamr]

smokier and smellier than a krr150... you gettin a honda or something? :p

Shhh... if it doesn't say it on the tank it MUST be something else. :yes:

[vamr]

Cables do not stretch, they snap. You will of course have to adjust them with time, but that's either the outer wearing a groove, or the clutch itself wearing (no surprise, like brakes it's somewhat sacrifical in nature). Must be either the clutch or how it has been adjusted. Or perhaps the oil its running in?

The bike is quite low in the km department and the clutch looks fine (from my un-educated standpoint of staring at it for a good 15min).

No idea really why the cable setting was made to be so loose by the previous owners but spent a good day out'n'about today with no complaints whatsoever (apart from the annoying low-speed squeeking when coasting that I can't for the life of me track down).

[Big Dog]

The bike is quite low in the km department and the clutch looks fine (from my un-educated standpoint of staring at it for a good 15min).

No idea really why the cable setting was made to be so loose by the previous owners but spent a good day out'n'about today with no complaints whatsoever (apart from the annoying low-speed squeeking when coasting that I can't for the life of me track down).
I assume this if from centre mass?
Is it when you have the clutch? in clutch out or both?
Clutch in only = most likely your clutch is out of pad or the springs are not evenly applying the pressure.
Clutch out only = Probably chain maintenance has been neglected
Both = Probably the chain is too tight or the the gearbox is dry.

If you are not sure and your smoker is too noisy to tell take a length of garden hose the same length as you.
Put your gear on over the top so it hangs out your pants (down by you boot not the fly) put the other end in you helmet jut in front of your ear.
This is a good way to isolate the sound from wind and exhaust.

Left leg is good for diagnosing clutch and gear issues right is good for starter motors on some bikes.

You will feel like a pill but what you hear will surprise you and arm you with better information to either make a decision or ask more questions.
Basically a cheap stethescope.

[vamr]

I assume this if from centre mass?
Is it when you have the clutch? in clutch out or both?
Clutch in only = most likely your clutch is out of pad or the springs are not evenly applying the pressure.
Clutch out only = Probably chain maintenance has been neglected
Both = Probably the chain is too tight or the the gearbox is dry.

If you are not sure and your smoker is too noisy to tell take a length of garden hose the same length as you.
Put your gear on over the top so it hangs out your pants (down by you boot not the fly) put the other end in you helmet jut in front of your ear.
This is a good way to isolate the sound from wind and exhaust.

Left leg is good for diagnosing clutch and gear issues right is good for starter motors on some bikes.

You will feel like a pill but what you hear will surprise you and arm you with better information to either make a decision or ask more questions.
Basically a cheap stethescope.

Thanks for the advice, I won't be able to check that until tomorrow but basicly from observation...

- Only happens when I'm moving at 5+km/h with the engine on. As I can't reproduce it just rolling about in a carpark.
- Only happens when there is a load as I tried to reproduce the effect on a centre stand.
- Happens both with the clutch engaged and disengaged.
- Happens both during braking and while coasting
- The chain I have lubed and slack has been adjusted to within the spec.
- Cleaned out the front sprocket, surrounding area + the chain... no change

I have an incling feeling it has something to do with either the brakes (the front pad looks slightly off-alignment but could be just me) or the bearings... just need to spend some time tomorrow triangulating the offending area.

[Big Dog]

I have an incling feeling it has something to do with either the brakes or the bearings... just need to spend some time tomorrow triangulating the offending area.
With your new stethescope you could on a closed road or empty carpark swing a leg a little forward or back to help identify this.


However if it is only under load check your chain again with a similar load on it (similar weight mate is best with feet on the pegs no stands down, second mate holding the bike upright.

If you have too much static sag going on you will find front sprocket either under load or too loose depending on specific swingarm geometry.

On the centre stand does the rear wheel spin freely or is it jerky?

I know you will have to wait till tomorrow to have a look but that will give you more to look for.

[vamr]

It's definitely the front wheel's brake caliper... for some reason it's not fully disengaging and therefore am getting a constant low speed squeak. No idea how to fix it yet... hopefully google will have an answer in store.

Redid the wheel alignment of the back + chain tension... seems pretty good at the moment so I guess that's my silver lining :mellow:

[Big Dog]

You could try buy a can of brake clean $10-20.
Take the caliper off clean it thoroughly.
get a g clamp wind it back fully.
Check the brake piston boots and pads if they are not right replace them.
If the pad is unevenly worn that is probably why it is not returning as the piston is continuing to push it after pad is crooked. If that is the case get a straight edge and spin the wheel to check for warps.
if both are intact glean the now exposed bits of boot and piston.
If the boot is not intact do not clean the boot!
Changing the boot is out of scope for me because I have never done one. putting brake clean on a perished boot will make it perish further and can damage the bits inside.

I have only had a bound brake on a bike twice once from a damaged pad, and once from stone under the boot.

In cars i have had them from a:
* warped disk.
* Unevenly worn disk.
* Parked for a year before I bought it.

[vamr]

The pads look alright, the disk has recently been replaced (it's a single) and is true and straight. Is there a return spring that the pad relies on for recoil?

Also, on a random note, has anyone per chance had a misalignment from the front wheel to the headstock? Fully straighted out bars = wheel pointing somewhat to the left.

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions... kind of opened a kettle of fish.

[Big Dog]

The pads look alright, the disk has recently been replaced (it's a single) and is true and straight. Is there a return spring that the pad relies on for recoil?

Also, on a random note, has anyone per chance had a misalignment from the front wheel to the headstock? Fully straighted out bars = wheel pointing somewhat to the left.

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions... kind of opened a kettle of fish.
Depends on the brake but generaly they rely on the movement of the disc to return the pad, hence the need for the clamp to return the piston. When they are sprung it is a counter balance not a return.

[Ixion]

Your wheel thing isn't misaligned wheel it's misaligned forks. Slacken the wheel mount bolts, and the triple tree bolts , hold the wheel between your legs and twist the bars gently to straighten things up (sometimes you can even do it on a small bike without loosening things). Then retighten things.

[Big Dog]

Your wheel thing isn't misaligned wheel it's misaligned forks. Slacken the wheel mount bolts, and the triple tree bolts , hold the wheel between your legs and twist the bars gently to straighten things up (sometimes you can even do it on a small bike without loosening things). Then retighten things.

If it's been in a stack (you said it had been down) check the bars are straight.
check your alignment based on headstock position not bar position.
If it is your forks not straight check the shock surface for ripples (may have been straightened on the cheap or not even fixed).

My old yamaha had a crook bar. I was sure it was going mad because of the amount of drift to the right. After complaining repeatedly to the shop I bought it off the took the bars off and sat them next to a stock set.
there was a 3cm between left handgrip. no prizes for guessing there was preexisting damage to the crank housing from bing dropped in a driveway.

[vamr]

Your wheel thing isn't misaligned wheel it's misaligned forks. Slacken the wheel mount bolts, and the triple tree bolts , hold the wheel between your legs and twist the bars gently to straighten things up (sometimes you can even do it on a small bike without loosening things). Then retighten things.

Thank you for that. Did the trick indeed.


Arg, this is driving me nuts. Now both wheels are squeeking (definately the brakes)!

Looks like I will have a fun day tomorrow taking the brakes apart. :scratch:

Le Update: All fixed... hoorah to a big rubber mullet!