Removing the engine.

[Ghost Lemur]

How do I go about removing my engine?

I've smashed the casing below the gear lever, so I need to remove the engine to get the casing welded. But with no manual, nor experience I'm unsure as to how to go about removing the engine.

Obviously not expecting CRM specific information, just generalisations as to what needs to be removed, and what doesn't.

[Motu]

Tank,seat,exhaust,airbox,cables,hoses,wireing,radi ators - unbolt the engine mounts and remove.Sometimes you can leave the carb on the engine and just remove the slide,other times pulling the complete carb is easier.I prefer to remove as much as possible before I pull any engine in any vehicle....others like to leave as much stuff on as possible....find your own preference.

OK,so what happened?

[El Dopa]

How do I go about removing my engine?

I've smashed the casing below the gear lever, so I need to remove the engine to get the casing welded. But with no manual, nor experience I'm unsure as to how to go about removing the engine.

Obviously not expecting CRM specific information, just generalisations as to what needs to be removed, and what doesn't.

Do you need to remove the whole engine? Or can you just remove that part of the casing, leaving the engine in place?

Just a thought.

[Ixion]

Usually, removing the engine is quite simple. What takes the time is removing all the crap you have to take off to get at it and get it out.

Take off the bits attached to the engine. Chain, zorst (whole thing or just the header, depends on the bike). Wires , pipes, cables etc etc. To get at a lot of them you'll prolly need to remove tank, seat, maybe even radiator (if you have one).

Unbolt engine mounts, get a good grip, plant feet well, and lift the donk out. They're heavy , but a 250 single you can just lift out. Don't drop it though!.

I'm of the same persuasion as Mr Motu I prefer to strip as much as possible in the frame. But it all depends on the bike, some its easier to pull stuff off before taking the engine out, some it's easier to leave till you've got it on the bench.

I'll usually pull off side covers, alternator , even clutch if they have to come off, before pulling the engine. Makes it lighter and stuff doesn't move round while you're trying to undo nuts and so on. and you can put the bike in gear to lock things etc. The big decision is usually whether to remove the head and barrel in the frame or not. Like I say, it all depends on the bike and your preference. I like at least to slacken the head bolts if possible in the frame, it can be a pain trying to hold the engine steady later.

But usually, it's really just Meccano stuff. Unbolt stuff, take stuff off.

Usual things, take lots of photos and drawings as you go, you WILL forget where things go when time comes to reassemble. Get lots of little jars and boxes and such like to put bits in, label them.

[Mental Trousers]

Best way I've seen for keeping track of where all the bolts etc go is to get a box, draw a picture of the bike/engine/frame/whatever on the box and poke holes in the box where bolts etc go and push the bolts into the holes. You can even put the nuts on them as well.

[Motu]

Oh,and when you go to put it back together - it doesn't go back together the reverse of disassembly....dunno why,but that bit you took of first doesn't go back last,it needs to be done 3 steps before.....no,hang on,you have to fit that other bit there and then....no,if you take this other one off then you can fit it in there....but then this bit here....

[Ghost Lemur]

Tank,seat,exhaust,airbox,cables,hoses,wireing,radi ators - unbolt the engine mounts and remove.Sometimes you can leave the carb on the engine and just remove the slide,other times pulling the complete carb is easier.I prefer to remove as much as possible before I pull any engine in any vehicle....others like to leave as much stuff on as possible....find your own preference.

OK,so what happened?

Cheers Motu.

Chain snapped and smashed the casing on the underside where the gear lever enters the engine. Might take some pics tomorrow.

Already stripped the plastics, seat and tank. It the wires, hoses, etc which worry me. Pulling to bits is always easy, getting things back together on the other hand. I'm also painfully aware that documentation is sorely lacking for this machine, so it's not like I can just bring up a web page or consult a book if I get stuck putting it back together.

[Motu]

I can happen to the best of us - tonight I'm playing around with a 1974 Singer industrial overlocker.I have no manuals and have no idea how an overlocker works....but I'm figuring it out.Tomorrow I'll try and set the cutting knives....how,what,where?????

Oh dear,chains into cases - now you've got me worried.OK,when I get into my DT230 it will get a new chain.

[merv]

So have you smashed part of the main casing i.e. gearbox crankcase housing and not just the sidecover?

As for chains why did that break? I'm not sure why until you tell us, but one thing always to watch on dirt bikes is you must have the chain as loose as specified because with the long travel suspension they tighten up a lot when the suspension compresses - you need around 40 - 50mm. The chain guide then makes sure the chain doesn't come off the back sprocket.

Also with the kind of power that bike is making did it have a rivetted joiner?

[laRIKin]

Give me a ring if you need a hand.
And I will show and help you set the chain up so it's not to tight or loose.

[stanko]

take some photos of the cables hoses etc. Get quite close , then its like having a manual specific to this very bike. Once you have taken the photos you probably wont need them cos you might find the going is easier than you thought.
Once you have mastered that you can go buy bikes that have been disasembld but the owner couldnt put back together.