ZXR250 choke issue

[Tickler]

When i go to use the choke on my zxr to start her up, i have to hold the chock lever the whole time because it seems to be very 'springy'

i.e. when i get it to the point i need and release it, it simply 'springs back' into the off position. Choke itself work fine

How do i fix this? Do i need a new choke cable? does the cable need greasing (unlikely) or is there a nut/bolt that needs tightening?

its not a major issue, i can live with it as is, but i like to keep my routine and put helmet/gloves etc on while the bike warms up

any help appreciated :yes:

[Mole_C]

My ZXR does it aswel, maybe it's the bike, if not ill be happy to know how to fix it aswel :yes:

[placidfemme]

Thats normal for the ZXR. Just hold it in place at about 4000rpm for about 2-3 minutes and your bike sould be warm enough to not cut out...

[N4CR]

NO THATS NOT NORMAL...
IT SHOULD HOLD IN PLACE AS YOU USE IT. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO FIX IT PULL OFF YOUR CARBS AND HAVE A LOOK AT THE LINE TO IT AND CHECK ADJUSTMENT. I CAN'T REMEMBER WHERE IT ADJUSTS TO BE HONEST BUT IT SHOULD BE SIMPLE. MAKE IT TIGHTER AND THE CABLE WILL GET MORE FRICTION AND 'STICK' OPEN... THATS WHTA HAPPENS WITH THROTTLE CABLES ANYWAY.

BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS JUST HOLD IT :) ALSO CHECK YOUR IDLER SETTINGS TO AS IF IT'S IDLING HIGHER YOU CAN TAKE IT OFF CHOKE SOONER.
GET THE ZXR250 SERVICE MANUAL. WWW.ZXR250.COM I THINK IT'S IN THERE OTHERWISE I CAN EMAIL IT TO YOU OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. PM ME.

[placidfemme]

NO THATS NOT NORMAL...
IT SHOULD HOLD IN PLACE AS YOU USE IT. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO FIX IT PULL OFF YOUR CARBS AND HAVE A LOOK AT THE LINE TO IT AND CHECK ADJUSTMENT. I CAN'T REMEMBER WHERE IT ADJUSTS TO BE HONEST BUT IT SHOULD BE SIMPLE. MAKE IT TIGHTER AND THE CABLE WILL GET MORE FRICTION AND 'STICK' OPEN... THATS WHTA HAPPENS WITH THROTTLE CABLES ANYWAY.

BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS JUST HOLD IT :) ALSO CHECK YOUR IDLER SETTINGS TO AS IF IT'S IDLING HIGHER YOU CAN TAKE IT OFF CHOKE SOONER.
GET THE ZXR250 SERVICE MANUAL. WWW.ZXR250.COM I THINK IT'S IN THERE OTHERWISE I CAN EMAIL IT TO YOU OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. PM ME.

If you say so...

I've asked 3 different mechanics at 3 different bike shops about this and they all said it was normal, also the other ZXR's that I've test riden have all done the same... its not even a problem unless your too lazy to hold it in place for a minute or two... not the end of the world...

[Whynot]

mine is a bit springy but not bad enough that i have to hold it in place.

[N4CR]

If you say so...

I've asked 3 different mechanics at 3 different bike shops about this and they all said it was normal, also the other ZXR's that I've test riden have all done the same... its not even a problem unless your too lazy to hold it in place for a minute or two... not the end of the world...

WEIRD. OF THE 5 GOING ON 6 NOW THAT I'VE RIDDEN IT HAS BEEN 'STUCK' AS WITH ANY OTHER BIKE.... MAYBE THEY DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO FIX IT ;) OR IT'S A 'NORMAL PROBLEM'. AH WELL LIVE WITH WHAT YOU HAVE GOT EH. THE PILLION THREAD WAS A NICE READ, SIMILAR TO MY EXPERIENCES. BIG BIKES ARE MUCH MORE PLANTED WITH PILLIONS AND THE SUSPENSION CAN HANDLE IT BETTER ALSO.. TRY ADJUSTING THAT IT WILL HELP A LITTLE ON THE ZXR.

EDIT:2000TH POST!!!!111!

[placidfemme]

WEIRD. OF THE 5 GOING ON 6 NOW THAT I'VE RIDDEN IT HAS BEEN 'STUCK' AS WITH ANY OTHER BIKE.... MAYBE THEY DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO FIX IT ;) OR IT'S A 'NORMAL PROBLEM'. AH WELL LIVE WITH WHAT YOU HAVE GOT EH. THE PILLION THREAD WAS A NICE READ, SIMILAR TO MY EXPERIENCES. BIG BIKES ARE MUCH MORE PLANTED WITH PILLIONS AND THE SUSPENSION CAN HANDLE IT BETTER ALSO.. TRY ADJUSTING THAT IT WILL HELP A LITTLE ON THE ZXR.

lol I Wouldn't be surprised when it comes to those lazy bastards. Its not a problem for me (thats what I'm used to anyway)... but I guess if its not meant to be like that then i'll keep an eye on this thread

[masterofpuppets]

yeah mine does it..... just learned to live with it.... even on cold as mornings i only need to hold it for 20 seconds or so to keep it from cutting out... still runs rough as tho.
Just live with it...... builds character.

[placidfemme]

Speaking of the choke (sorry to hijack the thread). How long do you guys warm your ZXR's up for before taking off?

I generally wait until the temp gauge needle rises to just on the blue/green. I've found that waiting until then stops the bike cutting out at the first set of lights or anywhere where you have to stop then take off again...

[xwhatsit]

My bike (which is not a ZXR250) does that too, to a lesser degree though. I rode a KR150 which did the same thing as well. Also a Mark 1 Cortina. Is it really such a big deal? If you look at the system involved, there's nothing really to stop the choke being pulled back, apart from inherent friction in all the separate components (at least on my bike). Maybe you need to stop cleaning your bike until it builds up enough crap in the choke lever to stop it moving? Lol.

[N4CR]

Speaking of the choke (sorry to hijack the thread). How long do you guys warm your ZXR's up for before taking off?

I generally wait until the temp gauge needle rises to just on the blue/green. I've found that waiting until then stops the bike cutting out at the first set of lights or anywhere where you have to stop then take off again...

I USUALLY WARMED IT UP FOR ABOUT 3-4 MINUTES TILL IT DIDN'T NEED CHOKE AND WAS RUNNING SMOOTHLY. THE TEMP GUAGE WOULD RISE A TAD I THINK. I'D THEN GINGERLY RIDE IT OUT UNDER 6K TILL IT REACHED NORMAL TEMPS, USUALLY WITHIN 4-6 MINUTES OR SO AFTER THAT. THEN ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE ;)

[Whynot]

Speaking of the choke (sorry to hijack the thread). How long do you guys warm your ZXR's up for before taking off?

I generally wait until the temp gauge needle rises to just on the blue/green. I've found that waiting until then stops the bike cutting out at the first set of lights or anywhere where you have to stop then take off again...

5-10 seconds maybe :innocent:

[Tickler]

Thanks for info guys.

N4CR, ive already got the manual, so will definatly look into the choke cable path and how it connects to the carb via the 'adjuster'

My mates other ZXR does hold it position, but i dont really see it as a problem. Its just from coming from my other bike im just use to putting my gear on while the bike warms up. I delay leaving by putting gear on.

Re: how long i warm my bike up for,
i generally warm it for 1-2minutes, till the temp gauge starts to move up. Then just nana it till it gets in to proper operating temps. (similar to N4CR).

In honesty thou, i choke warm it for like 1-1:30 then let the choke sit where it wants and let the bike idle (slightly above) while i put gear on.

I dont sit there for ages,because after learning the cooling system after doing a coolent change, a zxr has a little valve that stops the coolent flow, so that the amount that is actually in the engine warms up faster. So my theory is: as soon as that amount is warm, it good to go because the remaining 1+litre hasnt even been touched and the engine is (relatively) warmer.

[Tickler]

Maybe you need to stop cleaning your bike until it builds up enough crap in the choke lever to stop it moving? Lol.

haha maybe,

but if you dont clean it enough for the choke cable to stick, there will be enough crap on it to blow out my nice new fork seals. And we dont want that now do we class....no miss!

[Wheeliemonsta]

Howzzit,
If you look at the front of the carb's there is a moveable linkage plate which opens the choke plungers when the lever is pulled...

Holding the linkage plate to the carbs are two 5mm Phillips head screws, either side of these screws are nylon washers/wear plates which hold the linkage plate captive, these are designed to be an interference fit so as to hold the choke plungers open when required (rather than you !!!)

However, over time theses do wear out and allow the linkage plate, along with the return springs pressure pulling on it, to just return to it's seated or closed postion

Replacement of the nylon washers/wear plates is not difficult but does require the removal of the carbs

Part # is 92022-1199, there $4.00 each retail & you need four of them

If you manage to butcher the screws, part # for those is 92009-1262 & they are $6.00 each retail & strangely enough you need two of them :yes:

That should solve the problem... :done:

Cheers

:Punk:

[placidfemme]

Howzzit,
If you look at the front of the carb's there is a moveable linkage plate which opens the choke plungers when the lever is pulled...

Holding the linkage plate to the carbs are two 5mm Phillips head screws, either side of these screws are nylon washers/wear plates which hold the linkage plate captive, these are designed to be an interference fit so as to hold the choke plungers open when required (rather than you !!!)

However, over time theses do wear out and allow the linkage plate, along with the return springs pressure pulling on it, to just return to it's seated or closed postion

Replacement of the nylon washers/wear plates is not difficult but does require the removal of the carbs

Part # is 92022-1199, there $4.00 each retail & you need four of them

If you manage to butcher the screws, part # for those is 92009-1262 & they are $6.00 each retail & strangely enough you need two of them :yes:

That should solve the problem... :done:

Cheers

:Punk:

Kewl!! Thanks for the information :)

[Tickler]

Thanks WheelieMonsta, thats a good load of detailed info there.

Well now i know what to do and what to look for.

I had created a temporary solution too.
I readjusted the left handlebar 'controls unit' (thing with the choke and indicator swicth etc on).
I undid the two screws, removed it had a look at it, then reinstalled it but pushed it against the clutch lever support as this touched the choke lever.

But as i now have the perfect answer, i think ill have to do that

[Brett]

Hey tickler, you are the guy who bought my zxr are you not?? Anywho...of the four zxr's I have had, all but one have not had sticky chokes. The actual choke 'valves' (cant remember what they are actually called) are spring loaded themselves and hence want to bring the choke rail back into a closed position. You could theoretically adjust the line to give more tension, but personally, I have used to just start it, turn the idle up, leave it for a few mins to warm up and then turn the idle back down and away we went.

[inxs]

Howzzit,
If you look at the front of the carb's there is a moveable linkage plate which opens the choke plungers when the lever is pulled...
Holding the linkage plate to the carbs are two 5mm Phillips head screws, either side of these screws are nylon washers/wear plates which hold the linkage plate captive, these are designed to be an interference fit so as to hold the choke plungers open when required (rather than you !!!)
However, over time theses do wear out and allow the linkage plate, along with the return springs pressure pulling on it, to just return to it's seated or closed postion
Replacement of the nylon washers/wear plates is not difficult but does require the removal of the carbs
Part # is 92022-1199, there $4.00 each retail & you need four of them
If you manage to butcher the screws, part # for those is 92009-1262 & they are $6.00 each retail & strangely enough you need two of them :yes:

That should solve the problem... :done:
Cheers
:Punk:
I know old post but.. The choke is supposed to slide back to position so you don't accidently leave it on. If it doesn't then theres a problem with your choke linkage system, either with sticking choke plungers or cable or a missing or incorrect plate spring.
I would've though that the nylon washers were there for the linkage plate to slide easily on rather than be for interference.
There are 4 choke plungers each with springs in them to help push the choke back and theres a spring from the choke linkage plate to the throttle bracket. All of these springs help pull the choke back to its default position.

cheers

[WarlockNZ]

I know this is an old thread but I'm restoring a Zxr at the moment. The issue here is that the friction rubber inside the switch has most likely disintegrated. This is pretty common.

Open up the switch block and you will see a little metal bracket with a single screw on the inside. There is meant to be a spring loaded cruved bit of rubber/plastic mounted there. The small metal plate is to hold it in place.

This little bit of rubber/plastic puts friction pressure on the choke lever and stops it moving from the return spring tension. The return spring (mounted behind the carb block) is there's to prevent the choke engaging through engine vibration and to ensure a vacuum seal.