Thoughts on DIY chain riveting

[tl_tub]

Today I purchased a new chain for the TL1000. I had pre-organised to have it riveted at the shop (i have the swingarm out so its not an issue).

When i picked the goodies up and asked for it to be riveted I was told by the (different) person at the counter that it is easy to do it yourself and i should so i can be sure of the chain length before its joined (I had counted the number of pins so was certain the chain was the correct length)

I asked a few times about them doing it but she was certain it was easy to do with a block of steel behind and a nailpunch or similar.
Meanwhile back at home I find it isnt that easy to even get the sideplate on (the slipjoint pliers suggested just dont do it), and trying to neatly peen the pin out with a centre punch just isnt right.

Has anyone had success with this method? Im not willing to put my safety and new engine in the hands of a slightly deformed pin, so have organised to take it back to have it done properly.

[car]

Has anyone had success with this method?

Sort of.

I have a small press specifically designed for pushing side-plates on, but I've also used a very small G-clamp to the same effect. Taking care not to pinch it all up too tight.

As for punching the pin yourself, make sure that this is a "soft link", with a softer metal pin, with a recess in the end for your punch. If it's a hard link, same as all the others, MHO is that you're wasting your time with a centre-punch or a rivetting tool -- they'll just end up broken.

Just get a gurt big ball-pene, stick a lump hammer behind the link and whack the pin sharply a couple or four times, around the edge.

[merv]

There are different brands of chain with different types of joiners. Some require the v-punch style of rivetting (RK for example - this is where a v-shaped punch is hammered over the end of the pin - you'll need a solid block behind the back - a mate uses a piece of old railway iron), there is Regina and its complete set of tools recommended http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/how_to01.shtml and then there is DID which has the hollow ended pin and is basically swaged over by their rivetting tool with no hammering using a tool like this http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=182_563&products_id=403213

You can guess what I use - DID, because I reckon at home they are the easiest with no hammering required, its all done with one tool and all action is by winding with spanners - no drama. The other thing was the others if you buy all the recommended tools they cost a fortune, for DID there is one tool which a few years ago I bought from Motomail for about $120 I think it was. All the "official" tools have a form of press to fit the side plates with. DID when I looked into it was the only one that seems to be able to do everything with the one tool, the others have separate splitting tools, sideplate tools and rivetting tools.

Just using a hammer to try and peen the end over is risky in that you are unlikely to get the rivetting nice and even and you may bend the pin. Similarly without the proper press you can't guarantee you've fitted the sideplate evenly on both pins. Don't take risks with your chain - if you stuff up and it breaks you can end up skidding down the road with a locked up back wheel if it jams around the front sprocket and pulling the clutch in won't help you.

Motu might have an easy method for you but my rule is always go the simple way and have the right tool for it.

I posted a thread on my sexy gold chain a few years back here http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=1758

Now I don't do big kms on my bikes as they are all toys and not transport to me but my first chain on the VFR I thought was getting a bit tired (was getting the old loose versus tight spots) at 10 years old (I think about 36,000km) so I replaced it then and the DID has been on 3 years (about 10,000km) and I have never adjusted it since I fitted it, just lube it about every 500 - 1,000km. One bit of advice is never overtighten them - the manufacturers recommend quite a bit of slack for a reason and that being the modern suspension travel requires that much freedom in the chain.

[tl_tub]

The chain is indeed a DID 50VM.. 'Gold' plates with a hollow in the end of the pin. Although the material in the end of the pin is softer than steel, it sure isnt as soft as copper, so, as i found, will fracture if hit on the wrong angle.
I guess i should have gone with instinct and told her to stop harrassing me and rivet the damn thing :angry:

[merv]

OK as I've said above DID requires the proper swaging tool to spread that hollow end and in no way should it be hit on the end with a hammer or punch.

If you need a hand PM me because I have the tool.

[TLDV8]

My last two chains have been DID's and have never bothered to buy the tool even though i do everything else myself.
The first time i dropped the bike in to Colemans and they fitted a new chain and sprockets for one hour labour.
This time i got a new set off Cycletreads,since i bought a set i got the front sprocket for free and they cut the chain to length and did the joining link at no cost. (I am also about to pull the swingarm out to do some maintenance so the chain in one piece is not a problem)
At that rate i will never need the tool but if i did i would want it done properly as in done and forget about it until the next replacement.
As Merv said the DID pin is dimpled by the tool,not a peening.

Edit..I just saw the two posts above (slow typer)

You would have to wonder about the comeback on this.



I asked a few times about them doing it but she was certain it was easy to do with a block of steel behind and a nailpunch or similar.

[crazybigal]

i take it this was hazel at motorad! i wouldnt fuck with it, take it down in the morning, if you get no luck go and see mark at boyles.


The chain is indeed a DID 50VM.. 'Gold' plates with a hollow in the end of the pin. Although the material in the end of the pin is softer than steel, it sure isnt as soft as copper, so, as i found, will fracture if hit on the wrong angle.
I guess i should have gone with instinct and told her to stop harrassing me and rivet the damn thing :angry:

[tl_tub]

Thanks for confirming my thoughts on this. Though there isnt much sideways force, im sure if there was a chance of it breaking free it would.
I wonder what comeback you would have if it came loose and broke through the engine case? :)

I talked to the original parts chap i was dealing with and he asked me to take it back first thing in the morning and he will do it properly with the tool and a new link.
Haha, buggered if im going to try and get this link out, he can do that! :)

[tl_tub]

i take it this was hazel at motorad! i wouldnt fuck with it, take it down in the morning, if you get no luck go and see mark at boyles.


Haha, yeah it was hazel at motorad! How did you know? She certainly didnt want to get anyone to rivet the chain, thats for sure.. Im not sure what thats about.

[merv]

Hey mate did you get it all fixed today or did Hazel pull some other trick?