Replacing oil seal behind front sprocket

[arj127]

I would like to replace the oil seal behind the front drive sprocket on my VFR400. Is this an easy task (like replacing the gearshift seal)??? Its a big seal, 52x34x13. Can anyone give some advise?

[desmo dave]

Depending on the bike you may have to part the crankcase to fit the new seal. if this is the case, try abit of silicon sealer behind the drive sprocket then refit make sure everything in contact with the silicon is spotlessly clean.Worth ago if it's a major job

[arj127]

ive got a feeling that the case would need to be split to change the seal. There is about a fifteen mm gap between the drive sprocket and the seal. Are you suggesting i try to push a little silicon around the seal and let cure to see what happens? I'm not even totally sure thats where the leak is. Ive changed the shift seal a while ago, but there is still a leak. I felt for sure it would be the drive sprocket seal, but when i removed the sprocket the seal was fairly clean, but the area around it was oily. I may have to totally clean the area, ride for a few k's and reinspect.

[desmo dave]

will be best to check when its hot.If it is leaking there try the silicon nothing to lose. just make sure its clean.what bike is it?.

[arj127]

a 1990 Honda VFR400. Should i use normal RTV silicon or the newer MS silicon? Thanx for your help

[98tls]

May be well off track here..........does it have a seal for the clutch pushrod...if so and its located just forward of the sprocket its probably that.......a much easier fix...........

[arj127]

have a seal for clutch pushrod, but thats dry and clean.
Heres a photo of drive area, after i have been cleaning it up

[98tls]

Sorry mate but cant help anymore from the photo..........i would just clean it up with kerosine/paintbrush as best i could and go for a ride then inspect.......

[arj127]

i think thats what ill be doing. Bike will be off the road for a couple of weeks now as its getting a repaint aswell.

[98tls]

Good luck with it eh................let us know how you get on.........

[desmo dave]

a 1990 Honda VFR400. Should i use normal RTV silicon or the newer MS silicon? Thanx for your helpI cant remeber what type i used about 24years ago to stem the flow on a xr500 honda.worked though. Try to work out 1st if thats where its comming from for sure.

[Max Preload]

to do that seal. It's simply a case of prising the old one out (being careful not to damage the alloy around the outside) and then lubricating both the inside and outside of the new one and fitting it by pushing it in squarely.

I usually just use a small flat screwdriver to do gear shift, clutch pushrod and final drive seals. The outer part of the seal is a hard cup, so push the screwdriver through the middle of the flat face and draw it tangentially. Be careful no to stab into the bearing that is behind the seal too.

Check that there is no scoring on the shaft and if there is simply fit a slightly wider or narrower seal or if it's a OEM only seal, get a 2mm spacer of the correct outside diameter made to go behind the seal which holds it out so the sealing is not being doen on the scored part of the shaft.

[Max Preload]

the only reason the case join is there is for ease of manufacture (casting) and assembly (final drive shaft), not for actually clamping the seal - the fact it lines up with the seal centreline is incidental.

[rogson]

If it won't budge using a screwdriver to hook it out, drill two small holes through the seal on opposite sides (just drill enough to go through the seal - no further). Screw two self tapping screws into the holes. Alternately grab the screws with pliers and pull. The seal will work/pop-out easy.

[desmo dave]

Good to see it's an easy fix. i knew some1 would come along with the correct answer.

[F5 Dave]

Further to above there should be a o-ring when you remove the spacer, that should be replaced too. Seal seals to spacer, spacer seals to shaft with o-ring.

[arj127]

got the seal out this morning. Have now got the oring out aswell. Will order both from Honda tomorrow. Whats a bet they say six weeks from Japland.

[Max Preload]

You neccessarily don't have to go 'genuine'. Try Saeco Bearings and Seal House or any bearing retailer for that matter. It might be a one-off seal, or it might not. My XR600 final drive seal was off the shelf when I did it 8 months ago.

[arj127]

And yes, three week wait from Japan. Don't Honda NZ keep anything in stock? Every time i go to fix anything i have to wait about six weeks.
Unfortunately Saeco can't get the seal for me, i usually go to them first.
So will have to be patient and get all the other work done in the mean time.

[Max Preload]

Did you try Seal House (East Tamaki) or Bearing Wholesale (Panmure)? What are the seal dimensions and are there any numbers on it at all?

Saeco are usually handy (location wise), but carry only the most common sizes.

[Max Preload]

I see the dimensions in post #1. :whistle: I'll see what I can find. :yes:

[arj127]

at Honda couldn't see the spacer on his computer, so he figured it was part of the seal. Hope he is right.

[arj127]

prick of a job that was. After f'ing the first seal trying to get it in, i ordered two more from Econohonda. Much quicker delivery time (thankyou guys), but shagged the second one even after i made my own narly press. Ground the lip off the third one and got that in good. Start motor, still leaking. Me angry. Come up with the idea of glueing a slightly tighter seal to the other seal. Purchase on from Saeco and install it. Next morning start bike up and hey presto, no oil leaking. Yay. Apparently i should have put a sleave over the shaft and it would have tightened up on the original seal. Thanks for telling me that at the end of it all Saeco!!!!! Nevermind, bikes going and im riding again

[Max Preload]

Was the outside of the new seal metal, or rubber? Did you lubricate it?

I can't remember ever stuffing a seal installing it - you don't have to press it in - finger pressure working slowly around the outside edge is usually enough to install them.

[arj127]

These seals are difficult to get in. You need a press to get the seal perfectly square. The problem is the lip on the outside of the seal just doesn't help. The inner part of the seal is rubber, and yes it did have grease on it. These seals are nothing like replacing a gearshift seal. The real problem is that the shaft must have a grove in it from some shit rubbing on it over the years, so i really should have put a sleave on it and it probably would have worked out fine, actually thats what the mechanic is going to do to my car next week as it to has a leaking oil seal.

[Max Preload]

These seals are difficult to get in. You need a press to get the seal perfectly square.

You don't need a press - they're a seal not a preloaded double row spherical roller bearing. I've done plenty over the years.


The real problem is that the shaft must have a grove in it from some shit rubbing on it over the years, so i really should have put a sleave on it and it probably would have worked out fine, actually thats what the mechanic is going to do to my car next week as it to has a leaking oil seal.


Check that there is no scoring on the shaft and if there is simply fit a slightly wider or narrower seal or if it's a OEM only seal, get a 2mm spacer of the correct outside diameter made to go behind the seal which holds it out so the sealing is not being doen on the scored part of the shaft.