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dhunt
30th August 2004, 17:09
Hi everyone,

I thought I might share this in case any one else has similar problems.

Problem #1. For the last several weeks I've had to keep winding out the clutch adjustment as the clutch wasn't disengaging properly and was just about out of adjustment. This was making me a bit worried.

Solution #1. After stripping all the ferrings of and pulling all the clutch plates out to sort out problem #2 we will still a bit stumped to what the problem was. So after putting the clutch all back together and adjusting it we discovered that 1stly the plate where the clutch cable goes into the engine was moving when the clutch was pulled. So tighten all the bolts up. Also looking at the adjuster there we noticed that the locking nut had come loose as was just held in by the rubber bumg (fortunetaly) so this was slowly turning round and causing my orginal problem.

Problem #2. At High RPM The clutch had a little bit of slipage.

Solution #2
While we had the clutch all a part we put some washers behind the clutch springs to just tension them a bit more. End result was clutch was a bit stiffer but removed the slipping.

I hope this makes sense and is helpful to someone. The biggest problem I've found with having a full fairing bike is you can't see what's happening underneath it all so I think regular removal and checking of the nuts would be recommended.

David

Ms Piggy
30th August 2004, 17:16
Actually - having just had a broken clutch cabel :argh: I noticed someone said something about 'oiling' their clutch cabel. Does this require special oil or just normal an oil can or ????

David - hope you don't mind me tacking this onto your thread.

Thanks Cathy

dhunt
30th August 2004, 17:44
Actually - having just had a broken clutch cabel :argh: I noticed someone said something about 'oiling' their clutch cabel. Does this require special oil or just normal an oil can or ????

David - hope you don't mind me tacking this onto your thread.

Thanks Cathy
I think we just used CRC. My uncle had a fancy little gadget that fitted tightly onto the end of the clutch cable so you could spray the CRC in the gadget and it would travel all the way through the cable.

David

Jackrat
30th August 2004, 18:07
I also spent this saterday working on my clutch.
Was geting a little high speed slipping.
Took the clutch apart during the week and measured the plates and checked for any warping.All checked out ok so I just bought some stronger springs,$35.
Put the springs in,lubed the cable with CRC,changed the oil to Pennsoil 50/20,
spent about an hour rerouting the cable to a better angle as my short bars tend to cramp the long cable that's designed for high bars.
Now the clutch feels better,no sslip and II can select neutral at a stand still for the first time since buying the bike.
Rego's on hold at the moment but still took it for a thrash up the heads rd. :nono: :niceone:

Jackrat
30th August 2004, 18:12
Just a little hint if you use CRC products,don't use electrical contact cleaner
for things like this as it's slightly acidic and will root the cable.
People do it for some dumb reason. :spudwhat:
Use the right stuff.

FROSTY
30th August 2004, 18:35
Folks -Just a bit of info for you. Modern clutch cables arent like they used to be. In the old days it was just a braided line inside a wound metal case -then a plastic cover to give some semblance of weather protection.
Nowadays the cable has a plastic sheath and most often the sleeve also has a plastic lining.
Usually if the cable needs oiling its not long of this world.

pete376403
30th August 2004, 22:01
If the inner sleeve is nylon there can be trouble if it gets wet. Nylon swells with water and the cable drags. I discovered this with the speedway bike (which is one place where you want a really good clutch "feel"). The cable was an english made Venhill Nylocable, cost lots, only worked properly until the bike was washed after a meeting.

scumdog
30th August 2004, 23:31
If the inner sleeve is nylon there can be trouble if it gets wet. Nylon swells with water and the cable drags. I discovered this with the speedway bike (which is one place where you want a really good clutch "feel"). The cable was an english made Venhill Nylocable, cost lots, only worked properly until the bike was washed after a meeting.

On my old H-D I smeared a bit of copper-coat around the top of the cable core where it goes into the outer and at any rub/pivot points, worked like a treat.

Paul in NZ
31st August 2004, 07:43
Argh Jim Lads...

Don't be usin' CRC to be oilin' yer cables.... It dries all funny and makes it worse I reckons. Use Lamisol or one of those sheep product type sprays. Much better cos they are waterproof and all...

On old munters like mine you need to regularly remove the cable, lube it with a little $15 gizmo that clamps on and you squirt the aerosol can into a little bung where the pressure forces it down the cable, plus out the end, into your eye, all over the tank and other places like your groin making you smell funny all day...

There is a hydraulic plunger thingy too but they cost a lot and I don't have one...

Also grease the cable pivots and the lever pivot.

When the cable outer wears through... The cable is on it's way out as water will be getting in, anu loose strands and replace it.. Buy 2 and keep one as a spare under the seat.

Paul N

ps. Cathy, if you want a demo, come out one saturday when I'm in shed mode... I promise not to play banjo music and the coffee is free...

Ms Piggy
31st August 2004, 08:42
Argh Jim Lads...

Don't be usin' CRC to be oilin' yer cables.... It dries all funny and makes it worse I reckons. Use Lamisol or one of those sheep product type sprays. Much better cos they are waterproof and all...

On old munters like mine you need to regularly remove the cable, lube it with a little $15 gizmo that clamps on and you squirt the aerosol can into a little bung where the pressure forces it down the cable, plus out the end, into your eye, all over the tank and other places like your groin making you smell funny all day...

There is a hydraulic plunger thingy too but they cost a lot and I don't have one...

Also grease the cable pivots and the lever pivot.

When the cable outer wears through... The cable is on it's way out as water will be getting in, anu loose strands and replace it.. Buy 2 and keep one as a spare under the seat.

Paul N

ps. Cathy, if you want a demo, come out one saturday when I'm in shed mode... I promise not to play banjo music and the coffee is free...

Thanks Paul - nothing wrong with a bit of dueling banjos! :niceone: I can't come out this Saturday but I'll give ya a PM sometime & pop on over :niceone:

Motu
31st August 2004, 09:40
I've been told using things like CRC will damage the nylon liner - doesn't worry me,all my cables are stuffed anyway.Using one of the clamp on gizmos I pump brake cleaner through first,cleans bulk crap out onto your shoe.Then I use WD40 or a lanolin type like Paul says - but these days I've been using a silver antisieze grease from Wurth called AL1100,this stuff just shoots through no worries and coats the cable in a anticorrosive grease,just what a guy who falls over in the mud needs.

vifferman
31st August 2004, 10:10
Clutch cable? Wassat?!?:spudwhat:

I've got one of them there wrist exerciser thingos. Last 3 bikes have had 'em.

Posh Tourer :P
31st August 2004, 22:18
Don't be usin' CRC to be oilin' yer cables.... It dries all funny and makes it worse I reckons. Use Lamisol or one of those sheep product type sprays. Much better cos they are waterproof and all...

On old munters like mine you need to regularly remove the cable, lube it with a little $15 gizmo that clamps on and you squirt the aerosol can into a little bung where the pressure forces it down the cable, plus out the end, into your eye, all over the tank and other places like your groin making you smell funny all day...

There is a hydraulic plunger thingy too but they cost a lot and I don't have one...

Also grease the cable pivots and the lever pivot.


So who was sniffing your groin all day to tell you you smelt funny?

Secondly, for those ancient cables, we use and oil/graphite mix, pumped through with a bicycle pump and apparatus. Oil is only there to distribute the graphite. Seems to work fairly well as long as the apparatus seals. If it doesnt, you get the stuff all over your pants.... or overalls, for the more workshoply advanced of us....

toads
3rd September 2004, 11:01
hey there folks, I've just read all of these posts and a glimmer of hope has arisen in my totally trashed soul, ( read my new thread on my clutch problem), I am truly gutted right now and really hope that the problem Jack rat experienced is true for my bike, knowing my bike has done high kms makes me think it's probably worn the clutch out but maybe somethings loose of the springs needs to be heavier or something, the guy that used to own my bike has just about stuffed the head on every screw and nut in the bike so I have just parked it up in disgust, after attempting to get the gauze filter out, I got the paper element out no problems but 2 screws have the heads chewed out and I'm gonna have to get Pete to apply some of his brute strength and possibly an easiout tool to them.

dhunt
3rd September 2004, 11:39
hey there folks, I've just read all of these posts and a glimmer of hope has arisen in my totally trashed soul, ( read my new thread on my clutch problem), I am truly gutted right now and really hope that the problem Jack rat experienced is true for my bike, knowing my bike has done high kms makes me think it's probably worn the clutch out but maybe somethings loose of the springs needs to be heavier or something, the guy that used to own my bike has just about stuffed the head on every screw and nut in the bike so I have just parked it up in disgust, after attempting to get the gauze filter out, I got the paper element out no problems but 2 screws have the heads chewed out and I'm gonna have to get Pete to apply some of his brute strength and possibly an easiout tool to them.
Hope you get it sorted out without busting the bank.
David