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IamCornholio
30th June 2007, 06:57
I mostly installed our speedometer out of curiosity but...



I have found that it is also a very useful tool for measuring things such as Speed (RPM) gains (or losses :shit:) from recent upgrades or jetting changes, Mileage info, Lap times, Differences between the top speeds of different weight riders, The time of day... :yes:

With this simple $10.00 Schwinn 'bicycle' speedometer, I can now easily SEE exactly what our bike is capable of and exactly what any changes I have made did to the top speed of it... The 'proof is in the pudding' and this tool WILL let you easily see if you have done any good or not with any 'mods' you have made to your pocketbike. :sherlock:

I loved the quality of the Schwinn speedometer but there are a few things that NEED to be changed for this to properly work on a pocketbike wheel and be both safe and accurate. :rolleyes:



First thing to do is to throw the original magnet found in the package into the garbage as fast as you can. This is a garbage quality magnet of the weakest order and Schwinn suggests a gap of only 1mm between the magnet and the pickup sensor... IMHO, That is WAY to close of a gap and this stock magnet has NO balls. It will barely pick up a handfull of paperclips and this is likely why Schwinn says to use a 1mm gap. This magnet is also designed to fit a wheel with 'spokes' and pocketbikes generally do not have these, so mounting this magnet WILL be a PITA at best... :beer:
I chose to use a few rare earth magnets on our install. These magnets are powerful enough to pull the friggin iron out of your blood (ok, so maybe not quite that strong...) and will easily allow you to run a much larger gap between the magnet and sensor with NO issues at all... :cool:

Next thing to get is some JBWeld... This stuff rocks and just a drop or 2 placed in the correct places WILL secure the sensor to the fork in such a way that you will have NO issues with things coming loose and possibly causing a mess or an accident...

I also used the JBWeld to secure our magnets to the wheel and have had NO issues with them either loosening or trying to come off. Awesome product for sure IMHO. :yes:

If you will check out the pics below, You will find some shots of our magnets and sensor assembly mounted on the wheel/fork, Pics of the Speedometer installed on the handlebars, and a better pic of the really cool 'Skull and Bones' valvestem caps that we run on our bike...

FWIW, These 'Skull and Bones' valvecaps added approximately .000267 MPH to the top speed of our bike due to the pure intimidation factor that they posess... Other riders see these caps and won't even fire their bikes up now if they are racing with us... :Punk:





IamCornholio (and I hope this helped someone as that is what I was trying to do here friends...)

paturoa
30th June 2007, 07:04
I've never seen JBweld here in noozeelan, is this the stuff you are talking about? http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

IamCornholio
30th June 2007, 07:20
I've never seen JBweld here in noozeelan, is this the stuff you are talking about? http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Absolutely friend... :yes: (Thanks for posting up the link soas other members can see what I am talking about here)

I prefer to use the JBKWIK flavor as that stuff has enough strength to actually tap threads in if one so desires and it will 'set-up' in minutes if you mix it in a 50/50 ratio of hardener to resin... :Punk:

I have done lots of insane stuff with this product for sure as thus far it has not failed me. If you can get a clean suface, This stuff WILL stick and will NOT be loosened by either heat or vibrations... :yes:



Hope you liked this thread friend... I was 'trying' here... :scooter:


IamCornholio

sidecar bob
30th June 2007, 07:33
This chap is selling JB Weld on trademe, auction number 106756258

sAsLEX
30th June 2007, 07:49
I have a cheap chinese bike, has a weird fuel setup in that there is a return line from the carb back up to the tank.

Now sometimes whilst on full throttle it just dies until you back off a touch, any ideas what the problem is? I thought it could be fuelling?

IamCornholio
30th June 2007, 09:11
I have a cheap chinese bike, has a weird fuel setup in that there is a return line from the carb back up to the tank.

Now sometimes whilst on full throttle it just dies until you back off a touch, any ideas what the problem is? I thought it could be fuelling?

If your bike speeds up when you let off the throttle a slight bit, that is a really good sign that you bike is running WAY too rich... :yes:

This could very easily be caused by a clogged airfilter in many cases.

I would chuck the return system that you have currently and allow the overflow fuel to drain under the bike if it were me... It is not going to work correctly as it is because the pressure can't overcome the gravity to get the fuel back into the tank... :innocent:



Your avater is 'HOT" BTW sAsLEX... :yes: please pardon me while I give you some more positive 'rep'. I KNOW you don't NEED it, but DAMN... :rockon:

xwhatsit
30th June 2007, 10:30
First thing to do is to throw the original magnet found in the package into the garbage as fast as you can. This is a garbage quality magnet of the weakest order and Schwinn suggests a gap of only 1mm between the magnet and the pickup sensor... IMHO, That is WAY to close of a gap and this stock magnet has NO balls. It will barely pick up a handfull of paperclips and this is likely why Schwinn says to use a 1mm gap. This magnet is also designed to fit a wheel with 'spokes' and pocketbikes generally do not have these, so mounting this magnet WILL be a PITA at best... :beer:
I chose to use a few rare earth magnets on our install. These magnets are powerful enough to pull the friggin iron out of your blood (ok, so maybe not quite that strong...) and will easily allow you to run a much larger gap between the magnet and sensor with NO issues at all... :cool:

'Allo Mr Cornholio,

Curious about this magnet situation. I might be completely wrong, but I remember thinking when I installed one on my mountain bike when I was a wee lad, that the reason for the weak magnet and close mounting was accuracy. Not sure if I can describe this in words well enough -- but with a strong magnet isn't the sensor likely to trigger well before the magnet is directly level with the sensor? With the weak magnet, and 1mm gap, the sensor may still trigger if the gap is within normal range, however the distance will be much smaller.

Of course I suppose this doesn't matter very much, so long as it happens consistently. I think. You would hope the cycle computer was using a rising edge triggered interrupt, rather than a level triggered interrupt.

Was thinking about replacing the speedo on my bike with one of these entirely, very useful and more accurate than the dodgy analogue things that come with most bikes. I decided not to, for aesthetics (well, future aesthetics), and to remain legal a speedo needs to have lighting so you can see it at night. I'm sure there are some backlit cycle computers out there, but it all seemed too much of a pain in the arse, and I'm not wiring up my own LED backlight.

EDIT: And yes, sAsLEX's avatar is mesmerising :D

NordieBoy
30th June 2007, 12:12
It's usually a reed switch, triggered is triggered.

Coyote
30th June 2007, 12:50
Haha, that's wicked. Can those little speedo's measure speeds past 50k? My brother would like to put one on his dirtbike for the hell of it

xwhatsit
30th June 2007, 12:56
It's usually a reed switch, triggered is triggered.

I don't mean the switch, I mean the decoding circuitry.<hints id="hah_hints"></hints>

jonbuoy
30th June 2007, 13:44
'Allo Mr Cornholio,

Curious about this magnet situation. I might be completely wrong, but I remember thinking when I installed one on my mountain bike when I was a wee lad, that the reason for the weak magnet and close mounting was accuracy. Not sure if I can describe this in words well enough -- but with a strong magnet isn't the sensor likely to trigger well before the magnet is directly level with the sensor? With the weak magnet, and 1mm gap, the sensor may still trigger if the gap is within normal range, however the distance will be much smaller.

Of course I suppose this doesn't matter very much, so long as it happens consistently. I think. You would hope the cycle computer was using a rising edge triggered interrupt, rather than a level triggered interrupt.
Was thinking about replacing the speedo on my bike with one of these entirely, very useful and more accurate than the dodgy analogue things that come with most bikes. I decided not to, for aesthetics (well, future aesthetics), and to remain legal a speedo needs to have lighting so you can see it at night. I'm sure there are some backlit cycle computers out there, but it all seemed too much of a pain in the arse, and I'm not wiring up my own LED backlight.

EDIT: And yes, sAsLEX's avatar is mesmerising :D

Your'e not wrong there - it might also trigger the switch for a longer duration. - Cool KB has spell check!

IamCornholio
30th June 2007, 15:50
'Allo Mr Cornholio,

Curious about this magnet situation. I might be completely wrong, but I remember thinking when I installed one on my mountain bike when I was a wee lad, that the reason for the weak magnet and close mounting was accuracy. Not sure if I can describe this in words well enough -- but with a strong magnet isn't the sensor likely to trigger well before the magnet is directly level with the sensor? With the weak magnet, and 1mm gap, the sensor may still trigger if the gap is within normal range, however the distance will be much smaller.

Of course I suppose this doesn't matter very much, so long as it happens consistently. I think. You would hope the cycle computer was using a rising edge triggered interrupt, rather than a level triggered interrupt.

Was thinking about replacing the speedo on my bike with one of these entirely, very useful and more accurate than the dodgy analogue things that come with most bikes. I decided not to, for aesthetics (well, future aesthetics), and to remain legal a speedo needs to have lighting so you can see it at night. I'm sure there are some backlit cycle computers out there, but it all seemed too much of a pain in the arse, and I'm not wiring up my own LED backlight.

EDIT: And yes, sAsLEX's avatar is mesmerising :D


This particular speedometer works by comparing the size of the wheel (which does have to be measured and input into the speedo) with the number of times that the wheel rotates (the magnet triggers the sensor as it passes by to show the number of revolutions)... :yes: All that the computer in this speedometer is measuring with respect to the sensor and magnet is 'if' the magnet went by the sensor or not. The 'duration' of the switch being triggered is not measured here. This thing more or less is just counting the number of times per sec the sensor is being tripped and then uses your wheel size to calculate the speed... :scooter:

After the install, I checked the operation of the sensor by watching the display as I rotated the wheel by hand. I only get a 'reading' as the magnet passes by the sensor and have had no issues with false readings at all...

As my magnets are a bit more powerful, I can still get a good reading with @ 1/4" gap between the magnet and the sensor. These particular magnets were also much easier to install in this application as they fit nicely in the little 'crook' of the wheel. (see this better in the pic)


I was easily able to measure our wheel by wrapping a piece of tape around the very center of the tire until it touched at both ends and then removing and measuring it. I came up with 885.825mm for our tire in this case. :scooter:

This speedometer will work at speeds of 50k or more. (not sure exactly how much more though) 50 KM/H is also 31.068 MPH and we have had no issues getting readings at these speeds. Our bike is currently a mid 30MPH bike and we do a lot of 'testing' and such with this speedometer at these speeds...

For the sake of curiosity one day, I reset the 'MAX' speed reached function on it and then went for a short ride and topped the bike out as best I could get with me riding on it. My 'MAX' speed reached was stored in the computer... I then got my son to take the bike for a WOT beating and he was easily and repeatably able to beat my top speed reached previously by between .5 and .8 MPH each time he tried simply due to to his lighter weight advantage. :shit::Punk:

The computer will display both the MAX speed reached and how much faster or slower you have gone as compared to it.

My extra 100lbs cost me a 1 MPH loss in top speed for sure. :second:

Hope this helped some friends!




IamCornholio

IamCornholio
30th June 2007, 16:09
Your'e not wrong there - it might also trigger the switch for a longer duration. - Cool KB has spell check!

Pertaining to what you said about the 'spellcheck' friend...


One of the reasons I prefer to hang out at KB is because of the level of skill and the amount of brains that most of the members here have. I absolutely can't stand websites that are full of idiots that can't spell simple words correctly... I personally tend to lend a bit more credibility to a guy who can at least 'appear' intelligent by simply having spelling skills above a 2nd grade level. Most of the members here at KB seem to be very mature and educated people IMHO. :yes:


Just my 2cents worth friend! :rockon:

sAsLEX
30th June 2007, 18:50
some go up to 299, some of the 125s use them for max speed checks etc as well

mr_penguin
3rd July 2007, 11:04
[QUOTE=IamCornholio;1114787]I mostly installed our speedometer out of curiosity but...



I have found that it is also a very useful tool for measuring things such as Speed (RPM) gains (or losses :shit:) from recent upgrades or jetting changes, Mileage info, Lap times, Differences between the top speeds of different weight riders, The time of day... :yes:

With this simple $10.00 Schwinn 'bicycle' speedometer, I can now easily SEE exactly what our bike is capable of and exactly what any changes I have made did to the top speed of it... The 'proof is in the pudding' and this tool WILL let you easily see if you have done any good or not with any 'mods' you have made to your pocketbike. :sherlock:

I loved the quality of the Schwinn speedometer but there are a few things that NEED to be changed for this to properly work on a pocketbike wheel and be both safe and accurate. :rolleyes:



First thing to do is to throw the original magnet found in the package into the garbage as fast as you can. This is a garbage quality magnet of the weakest order and Schwinn suggests a gap of only 1mm between the magnet and the pickup sensor... IMHO, That is WAY to close of a gap and this stock magnet has NO balls. It will barely pick up a handfull of paperclips and this is likely why Schwinn says to use a 1mm gap. This magnet is also designed to fit a wheel with 'spokes' and pocketbikes generally do not have these, so mounting this magnet WILL be a PITA at best... :beer:
I chose to use a few rare earth magnets on our install. These magnets are powerful enough to pull the friggin iron out of your blood (ok, so maybe not quite that strong...) and will easily allow you to run a much larger gap between the magnet and sensor with NO issues at all... :cool:

Next thing to get is some JBWeld... This stuff rocks and just a drop or 2 placed in the correct places WILL secure the sensor to the fork in such a way that you will have NO issues with things coming loose and possibly causing a mess or an accident...

I also used the JBWeld to secure our magnets to the wheel and have had NO issues with them either loosening or trying to come off. Awesome product for sure IMHO. :yes:

If you will check out the pics below, You will find some shots of our magnets and sensor assembly mounted on the wheel/fork, Pics of the Speedometer installed on the handlebars, and a better pic of the really cool 'Skull and Bones' valvestem caps that we run on our bike...

FWIW, These 'Skull and Bones' valvecaps added approximately .000267 MPH to the top speed of our bike due to the pure intimidation factor that they posess... Other riders see these caps and won't even fire their bikes up now if they are racing with us... :Punk:


Hi where did you find one of these speedo's for $10 ?.

When I last looked I spotted these things for around $40..

I would like to put one on my b1 rep..

I'd really like a rev counter and water temp display to....

Regrads
Ian

sAsLEX
3rd July 2007, 16:13
[QUOTE=IamCornholio;1114787]I mostly installed our speedometer out of curiosity but...



I have found that it is also a very useful tool for measuring things such as Speed (RPM) gains (or losses :shit:) from recent upgrades or jetting changes, Mileage info, Lap times, Differences between the top speeds of different weight riders, The time of day... :yes:

With this simple $10.00 Schwinn 'bicycle' speedometer, I can now easily SEE exactly what our bike is capable of and exactly what any changes I have made did to the top speed of it... The 'proof is in the pudding' and this tool WILL let you easily see if you have done any good or not with any 'mods' you have made to your pocketbike. :sherlock:

I loved the quality of the Schwinn speedometer but there are a few things that NEED to be changed for this to properly work on a pocketbike wheel and be both safe and accurate. :rolleyes:



First thing to do is to throw the original magnet found in the package into the garbage as fast as you can. This is a garbage quality magnet of the weakest order and Schwinn suggests a gap of only 1mm between the magnet and the pickup sensor... IMHO, That is WAY to close of a gap and this stock magnet has NO balls. It will barely pick up a handfull of paperclips and this is likely why Schwinn says to use a 1mm gap. This magnet is also designed to fit a wheel with 'spokes' and pocketbikes generally do not have these, so mounting this magnet WILL be a PITA at best... :beer:
I chose to use a few rare earth magnets on our install. These magnets are powerful enough to pull the friggin iron out of your blood (ok, so maybe not quite that strong...) and will easily allow you to run a much larger gap between the magnet and sensor with NO issues at all... :cool:

Next thing to get is some JBWeld... This stuff rocks and just a drop or 2 placed in the correct places WILL secure the sensor to the fork in such a way that you will have NO issues with things coming loose and possibly causing a mess or an accident...

I also used the JBWeld to secure our magnets to the wheel and have had NO issues with them either loosening or trying to come off. Awesome product for sure IMHO. :yes:

If you will check out the pics below, You will find some shots of our magnets and sensor assembly mounted on the wheel/fork, Pics of the Speedometer installed on the handlebars, and a better pic of the really cool 'Skull and Bones' valvestem caps that we run on our bike...

FWIW, These 'Skull and Bones' valvecaps added approximately .000267 MPH to the top speed of our bike due to the pure intimidation factor that they posess... Other riders see these caps and won't even fire their bikes up now if they are racing with us... :Punk:


Hi where did you find one of these speedo's for $10 ?.

When I last looked I spotted these things for around $40..

I would like to put one on my b1 rep..

I'd really like a rev counter and water temp display to....

Regrads
Ian

He is american......... though our dollar is now pretty strong against the USD...

IamCornholio
3rd July 2007, 22:26
[Hi where did you find one of these speedo's for $10 ?.

When I last looked I spotted these things for around $40..

I would like to put one on my b1 rep..

I'd really like a rev counter and water temp display to....

Regrads
Ian


I found this particular one at Walmart but these (and many other useful parts for these size bikes) can also be found at your local mountainbike or BMX shops. :yes:

I found better quality brake levers and got a few cable replacements at our local BMX bicycle shop for cheap.

The rare earth magnets like I used can be had from any local alarm company. (They use magnets like these commonly as door sensors and such.) Many 'cool' alarm guys will just give you a pile for free if you ask them nicely... This is how I got mine. :innocent:

As for the rev counter... If all you are looking to do is check your max rpm while riding at WOT, You can calculate that without a tachometer if you know your gearing specs and have an accurate speedometer to measure your top speed.

Here is a speed calculator for you friend... Enjoy! :rockon:

http://www.minimotogarage.com/ecm_speed_calc.html


If you do a thread in this section of KB, please post up some pics of your B1 Mr_penguin... I would absolutely love to see your ride friend. :yes:



IamCornholio

mr_penguin
5th July 2007, 18:54
Here's a photo of my b1 replica bike i've only had it a short time
and are still sorting out it's issues...

I have taken it for a few short rides and it's been a blast really put
a big smile on my face !

Can't wait to put it on a kart track but it's not ready for that yet.

As for the bicycle speedo's i have looked at two here and none will work
with a small wheel dia of around 30cm !

I will keep looking tho

Thanks for the details on polishing it was a very good read, I always had problems with the paper clogging up never did I think about doing this under a running tap !.

Regards
Mr Penguin