Spline lubricant for BMW - suggestions?

[xgnr]

Howdy all

I am not having any problems with my dear old beemer but as she is now run-in I would like to do some preventative maintenance on those things that will wear out one day. After my last event with Alternator brushes wearing out and leaving me standed I would rather pre-empt any issues where possible.

So the (in)famous rear drive Spline Lube will be attempted.

Now I know from the previous owner that the Clutch Splines were ummm replaced at 75,000k so would have been lubed then (I hope). I have no intention of doing those at this stage but I am unsure if they took the time to lube the rear splines or not.

After discussing with the guys at Experience BMW they suggested that the later models shouldn't require regular greasing/maintenance (ist nicht in the servicing requirements) but as she is coming up to 120,000Km it might be wise thing to do and at least see if they are rooted or not.

My question is what grease to use? The Interweb opinion is that the BMW #10 is crap and Honda Moly-60 (is this even available?) is the way to go but these are somewhat oldish postings.. is there a better product out there now?

Cheers for any advice

Stu

[tri boy]

Contact Castrol NZ for advice.
I'm picking something like EPL, LMM,BTX.
They have a huge range to suit all industry requirements.
Interesting comment about late models not needing grease.............

[CookMySock]

You need to know if there is any constant movement in this joint. If there is not, then any thick grease will do. If there is movement, and you use a too-thick grease, then you will overload something somewhere, and maybe push a bearing or a seal out.

If you want to love it to death, use amsoil, if you can find it.

DB

[Ixion]

Honda Moly-60 is the gold standard. I couldn't find a source in NZ, and I treied hard.

Optimol paste is the next best. Last time I did mine Experience gave me a small amount for free, you only need about enough to cover an old penny.

I would very strongly suggest NOT using ordinary grease.

On a K75 the clutch splines are much more important than the rear drive. ALWAYS ASSUMING that your boot is not damaged. Damaged boots are the single most common cause of spline and UJ failure. Check it very very carefully, and make sure that it is properly seated.

It's an easy enough job, no special issues, just tedious and takes longer than it should.

[tri boy]

I would very strongly suggest NOT using ordinary grease.



Sorry Ixion, but what the hell is "ordinary" grease?????
Never seen it listed on any spec sheet/API listing.
Each grease has properties that work in varying roles, some withstand extreme temp/pressure, suitable for sliding,rotating,high impact, water exposure etc
But to fair, when dealing with light load motorcycle applications, most moly greases will be quite suitable.
Regular, ie 30000km inspection, regrease is still the best maintenance tip.
It's not as though the grease is submerged in salt/brackish water, on a dam wall gate actuator or similar. MHO

[xgnr]

Hi there

Thanks for the info folks.

Seems that the Moly/dry/sticky grease is required due to the pressure and heat generated in the splines.

60% + Moly appears to be the requirement so the hunt begins there. Good to know Honda Moly-60 aint around. Will see what I can find withouit stealing some from Sebastian and co at experience (plan-b ).

As to frequency of clutch and rear spline maintenance opionions vary from never to every time you change a tyre. Interesting that the gent who owned me bike always suspected that the service had never been done when requested early in its life hence the clutch spline failure.

Not a bad little document here on the shaft drive lube options fwiw

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Shaft.html

Cheers

Stu

[Ixion]

You can sometimes get the BMW recommended Optimol paste off Trademe . That's not the same as the old BMW #10 which is almost completely blown up.

Received wisdom is that Optimol (Optimol T I think it is ) is OK but doesn't last long. You need to replace it every (insert variable figure between 20 and 75000 km depending on your paranoia).

The joint which needs most frequent attention is the front drive shaft, because of the angles. But the one which has the hardest life is the clutch. Dunno why, but the clutch is the one which most often craps out. Unless that boot is damaged in which the drive shaft joint can totally crap out in less than 10000 ks on the GS models. Check that boot.

[xgnr]

Check that boot.

Roger that.. message received CHECK THE BOOT :niceone:

[xgnr]

Thanks all

My supplier of many and varied BMW spares in Nelson can supply the Optimol paste at around $12 a pottle (enough to do Rear and Clutch splines).

Popped down to the local guys and a tube (musta been 150ml or so) of the BMW stuff was $45.00 :eek5:

Another discussion about the service intervals for Spline Lubes ensued with no agreement except that if your splines go, ya better have a big overdraft :weep:

So I will CHECK THE BOOT, then plan for a major outage to do the clutch splines.

Rear splines I will attempt as soon as the paste arrives eh.

Cheers

Stu

[xgnr]

Bravely pulled the rear wheel final drive and shaft apart yesterday.

Cleaned it all up and greased it well. I suspect that the final drive seal is a bit rooted tho' as there was about 50ml of fluid in the drive shaft. A horrible dirty brown mess of gunk which I presume was grease and oil all mixed up. :argh:

Will have to check oil frequently and open it up again soon to see if there is any further leaking. Good news was that the splines, uni-joint and swingarm all appeared fine. The BOOT was even looking good. After the Brass I will do the clutch spline although I require some special bloody tool.... grrrr

Total job took 1 hr

Some photos (sorry about the focus)

Cheers

Stu

[paturoa]

The brown gunk looks like a water / rust / grease mixture in the photos.

See you this arvo.

[Ixion]

After the Brass I will do the clutch spline although I require some special bloody tool.... grrrr



No. No special tool required for a clutch lube . Only if you actually remove the clutch. But I have a clutch centraliser tool that I made up, welcome to borrow it if you do need one. But you won't just to lube the splines.

[xgnr]

No. No special tool required for a clutch lube . Only if you actually remove the clutch. But I have a clutch centraliser tool that I made up, welcome to borrow it if you do need one. But you won't just to lube the splines.

Ah fantastic news thanks very much.

Hadn't read the Clymer manual properly. Good to know the "special" tool exists!

Holy shit just finished all the lubes/fluids/filters and noticed the damn front master cylinder has a little drip. Although I think it has had a wee drip for a while as a tiny bit of paint had bubbled in the last couple of weeks... gaaaarrgh

Do I have time to get a recon kit and have it done before Thursday 7.00am...hmmm will be an interesting few days.

sigh...

[xgnr]

What a mission.

For a 5 minute painting session its a lota work pulling everything apart.

In the end I found a very good option that (maybe) cut a F'king BIG job down to a Big Job.

long story short, you can replace the lower tranny bolts with 150mm long bolts and slide the rear everything back to get in and paint the lube on.

Sorta worked ok except a (gear change sensor thingy I think) gets in the way and I can only open her up 75mm or so.

That said, the splines looked excellent :2thumbsup and I got to most of the splines with fresh white goo.

Most of the time was spent rigging everything up, dismantling the whole damn bike and trying to pull the tranny off without relying on the screwdriver.

In the end I parted the cases using flat metal tool (paint scraper) and then finish off with the BMF screwdriver.

Slide it back on the supporting bolts with a jack under to provide support and it's done. Adjusted the clutch cable, checked all bolts and stuff. Quite fun really in a masochistic way :spanking:

Now another day to put it all back together :beer:

The K bike is now ready for another 120,000km

Cheers

Stu