Engine transplant?

[Gubb]

Right, so i've had a Hyosung engine fall into my lap, which I intend to use in my blown bike.

I've never done anything remotely like this. Is removing an old engine, and installing a new (whole) a tricky job?

Is it just a matter of unbolting the exhaust, taking off the hoses, and unbolting it from the frame? Or is their considerably more to it?

i.e. Can any idiot with a spanner do this? Or am I kidding myself for even thinking that I may be able to achieve this with a few mates over a couple of nights?

[sinfull]

Right, so i've had a Hyosung engine fall into my lap, which I intend to use in my blown bike.

I've never done anything remotely like this. Is removing an old engine, and installing a new (whole) a tricky job?

Is it just a matter of unbolting the exhaust, taking off the hoses, and unbolting it from the frame? Or is their considerably more to it?

i.e. Can any idiot with a spanner do this? Or am I kidding myself for even thinking that I may be able to achieve this with a few mates over a couple of nights?
Dooooo eeeet

[R6_kid]

Is it just a matter of unbolting the exhaust, taking off the hoses, and unbolting it from the frame? Or is their considerably more to it?

i.e. Can any idiot with a spanner do this? Or am I kidding myself for even thinking that I may be able to achieve this with a few mates over a couple of nights?

shouldnt take a couple of nights, probably a few hours at max.

Just drain, unplug, unbolt, remove, replace, rebolt, replug, re-fill.

[eelracing]

If ya aint got a manual sometimes i find taking heaps of digital pics can help when pulling things down.Then its just a matter of following in the reverse manner.
Hope it helps.

[Conquiztador]

As long as it is same(ish) motor it takes a spanner (or two) and a sixpack and it's done. No real need for any manuals or other complicated stuff. The only recommendation would be to take out and replace same day (or at least same w/e). If you take out and then start the replacement fitting a month later you will really test your memory. And as mine is crap it is a no go zone.

But if the motor is something that was not ment for that frame, then it becomes interesting and you can use your imagination. Here there is really only three main issues that can kill the project:
- Chain on other side
- Electrics.
- Wont fit in to gap in frame!
But even those can be sorted.

Oh and some bikes are made so that the motor can only be taken out from one side. A little trick I use when no help around to lift in motor and match up bolt holes: I lie down the frame on the lawn, then drop the motor in where it belongs and it becomes so much easier than trying to use the feet to keep the motor up while pushing in bolts...

Good Luck!

[HDTboy]

Yeah, it's fairly easy. If you want, I could come help you for a reasonable rate

[koba]

Make sure you have (or get) an idea of how tight things should be.
Use loctite.

Doooo eeeet!

[Gubb]

Cheers guys. Friday night it is.

Yeah, it is the same engine, so no issues there. Looking forward to it now.

Cheers HDT, will flick you a PM if I have any issues.

:2thumbsup

[Squiggles]

Gizz a bell if ya need it, done this a few times and getting good at not crushing fingers :msn-wink:

edit: If the Hyobag swingarm pivot runs through the back of the motor it may pay to check its not some crazy castle nut that you're going to need a special tool for...

[nodrog]

just whip the old one out and replace.

[vifferman]

Make sure you have (or get) an idea of how tight things should be.
Use loctite.
... on the bolts that require it (it will be obvious when undoing them).
Make sure you use the right grade.

Also, keep track of where all the fasteners, washers and other small widgets go. If necessary, you can put them in small bags or pots and scribble on the side what they are / where they go.

[Gubb]

Printed out a service manual today with lots of purdy pictures to help along the way.

It doesn't seem like it'll be tooooooo hard.

Fingers crossed. Or crushed.

[racefactory]

I'm afraid I can't help you fellow motorcyclist, but I'd just like to say- best of luck to you.

Good on you for getting stuck in!

[FROSTY]

sorry just saw this dude--as usual the workshop here is available at le weekend

[Katman]

You want to try having someone bring in three big boxes of bits saying "Can you put this back together please?"

[Mom]

You want to try having someone bring in three big boxes of bits saying "Can you put this back together please?"

They are the best customers mate, charge them double time for the hassle. All those bits removed that did not need to be, all take time to put back again :yes:

[Gubb]

Farted around last night, got the old one unplugged and unbolted, fell right out, no worries there.

Apart from the time I busted my crappy socket wrench. Ah well. Budget tools, budget job. Borrowed a mates one instead.

Found the Green recycling bin to be the perfect height to sit the new engine on while we bolt it in. Primo!

New engine is bolted in, but not connected yet. That's for Sunday.

Going well so far.

[FROSTY]

Suggestion for ya dude---whilst all is exposed to the world.
1) Throw a new set of sparklers in her.
2) make sure the radiator is bled of all air
3)When tightening the exhaust bolts dont crank one side down tight in one go-get them finger tight then crank em all up evenly.
4) putting the chain on the front sprockets easier if you move the back wheel forwards
5)Leave the stuff you usually leave off when you change the oil n filter and once she's been run up to temp dump the oil and put fresh stuff in her.

[Gubb]

Some good tips there Frosty, Cheers.

[Gubb]

Did it!

Started at about 11am this morning working away alone at connecting up all the hoses, tubes and wires to the engine/carby/airbox/fuel tank/radiator/horn etc.

Took a few hours, and luckily I had a mates Hyosung in the garage so I could compare as I went.

Got a bit of help getting the exhaust back on, tried turning it on a few times with no luck, let it sit for a while, gave it another shot, and it fires.

Works sweet as. Discovered a bolt that i'd only done up finger tight which was leaking oil out of the case, tightened that, put up with the smoke burning off for a while, and you'd never know the difference.

I'm so stoked that my first attempt at anything remotely this big or mechanical, has been a success. I shouted, swore and lost my temper at a few bits along the way, broke a socket wrench (by accident) in the process. But i'm completely and utterly wrapped with how it turned out, and even impressed myself along the way.

Woohoo!

Hopefully I won't need to do it again for a long time though, unless I take on a project. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

[SARGE]

Did it!


Hopefully I won't need to do it again for a long time though, unless I take on a project. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

dude.. watch it.. you could come down with "Mod-itus"


this started out as a crash repair......



1992 3XW FJ1200ABS (AKA : SPOOKY)


ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

 WIESCO 1314cc ALLOY LONG ROD BIG BORE KIT (4mm overbore)
 12.2:1 COMPRESSION
 BALANCED, BLUEPRINTED, WEISCO LIGHTENED STROKER CRANK WITH KNIFE EDGE JOURNALS
 DISPLACEMENT = 1340cc

STAGE 3 HEAD – BLUEPRINTED, PORTED, FLOWED AND CC’d CHAMBERS, WITH MANIFOLD MATCHING AND PORTING. POLISHED EXHAUST AND ROUGHED INTAKE PORTS.

 31.5 MM OVERSIZED WEISCO TITANIUM INTAKE VALVES
 26.0 MM OVERSIZED WEISCO TITANIUM EXHAUST VALVES
 HEAVY DUTY DOUBLE VALVE SPRING KIT
 148 CFM FLOW

 1984 FJ1100 HEADERS / MICRON CAN

 PCW 03 CAMSHAFTS (INTAKE - 380" LIFT 261 DEG. DURATION - 104 DEGREE LOBE CENTERS / EXHAUST – 372” LIFT 259 DEGREE DURATION - 104 DEGREE LOBE CENTERS)

 VANCE & HYNES 5 DEGREE TIMING ADVANCE


 MIKUNI BS36 CARBS MATCHED TO 1984 FJ1100 36Y 33mm INLET RUBBERS
 132.5 MAIN JETS
 #45 PILOT JETS
 NEEDLE #1170i-90q70rt
 FUEL SCREWS - 3 TURNS OUT IN CYLINDERS 1 & 4 AND 3 ½ IN CYLINDERS 2 & 3
 8 1”DIA HOLES DRILLED INTO AIRBOX

 DYNA 2.2 OHM – 14,000V (GREY) COIL PACK / DYNA 2000 IGNITION PIGGYBACKED ONTO STOCK IGNITION (SELECTABLE)

 HIGH-TORQUE STARTER, HEAVY DUTY REGULATOR AND RECTIFIER

 BARNETT HYDROLIC RACING CLUTCH
 FJR1300 DOUBLE CLUTCH SPRINGS
 BACK-CUT GEARS



OUTPUT – 162.3 RWHP – 97 LB/FT TORQUE



SUSPENSION


 OHLINS REAR SHOCK PREPPED BY ROBERT TAYLOR
 RACETECH FORK SPRINGS/ RACETECH GOLD FORK EMULATORS
 30W FORK OIL


STANDARD FUEL MIXTURE

 20 LITERS 105 OCTANE AVIATION FUEL
 .5L ACETONE
 .5L METHANOL
 .25L DIESEL FUEL (lubes upper cyl)
 .75L MOBIL 98 OCTANE

FUTURE

HPC HEADERS
AVON AZARO – ST TIRES
2003 R-1 BLUE STAR BRAKE CALIPERS
OHLINS FORK SPRINGS
1992 SUZUKI GSX-R1100 17”X 5.5” REAR RIM

[DarkLord]

Well done bro. Great effort at a very daunting task. I was glad to be a part of it as well.

Now just got to find the cause of that f%$#ing rattling exhaust on my bike.....:mad:

[roadracingoldfart]

... on the bolts that require it (it will be obvious when undoing them).
Make sure you use the right grade.

Also, keep track of where all the fasteners, washers and other small widgets go. If necessary, you can put them in small bags or pots and scribble on the side what they are / where they go.

Heres a small tip for you all .
Loctite (as in thread lockers) is pretty much the same over the scale and there is really only one product in the middle of the road in thier range.
609 retaining compound is all you need to have as it will gap fill all the threads found on a m/cycle and will also retain anything you may need to take apart later.
243 , 262 , 680 etc can all be replaced by 609.

If you want to be really fussy you can buy a bottle of 243 , 262 , and 680 etc but the small amount used is never going to finish even a small amount of a small bottle (unless you do alot of work).

Cheers Paul.