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Velox
24th February 2005, 01:09
I commited a terrible crime towards my bike and am not proud of it. I didn't change the oil for "an undisclosed number of k's", but eventually did it the other day. But back when it wasn't very happy about the whole situation it started using up a decent amount of oil, as they do, and my oil light didn't come on. At one stage I had to top it up 1/2 a litre *ducks for cover* and it still wasn't on, but when I went to start it up after changing the oil the other day it briefly came on for a second while the oil got washed back around the engine. So it obviously works, but it made me wonder how much oil you can actually loose before a)the light usually goes on, and b)the bike dies? Anyone have any words of wisdom?

FROSTY
24th February 2005, 01:22
yamaha to my knowledge is the only jap brand to use a oil LEVEL light instead of a oil Pressure light. As long as the bike isn't so low the oil pump can't circulate the oil then the oil light wont come on.
The lil flicker was as ya say the sensor detecting thin air.
I think --Including oil filter your bike holds about 2.5l so a half litre is a problem but she aint about to seize--Yet

Kickaha
24th February 2005, 06:57
yamaha to my knowledge is the only jap brand to use a oil LEVEL light instead of a oil Pressure light. As long as the bike isn't so low the oil pump can't circulate the oil then the oil light wont come on.
The lil flicker was as ya say the sensor detecting thin air.
I think --Including oil filter your bike holds about 2.5l so a half litre is a problem but she aint about to seize--Yet

I would have thought Yamaha would have a safety margin built in so the light comes on before you're sucking thin air,whats the point of a warning light coming on when it's just to tell you "sorry you've just rooted your motor"

XTC
24th February 2005, 08:12
I agree with the responses above. Half a litre in a YZF250 would be another matter as you only have 900-1000mls to start with. You are a bad bad girl :) for not keeping up with this vital maintenance ritual. Nuff said.

But on the bright side I have also heard that 250 learner bikes do not infact require maintenance at all :)

flyin
24th February 2005, 09:57
I agree with the responses above. Half a litre in a YZF250 would be another matter as you only have 900-1000mls to start with. You are a bad bad boy for not keeping up with this vital maintenance ritual. Nuff said.

But on the bright side I have also heard that 250 learner bikes do not infact require maintenance at all :)


She was told by all on the welly cruise last week bout regular maintenance..... probly did it this week so we couldnt giv her shite tonite....... :done:


Velox - you shouldnt have done anything serious yet, and it'll like you for a while now uve changed it. theres usually around a half litre variation on the scale on the oil level gauge so you dont wanna have to put more than that in............... :whistle: ..

how does the clutch feel with clean oil? still gunna be ur next investment?

oh and yeah 250's need regular maintenance you slacker andy!!!! i was fairly naughty and didnt do mine till round 8000kms...... :confused2

F5 Dave
24th February 2005, 09:58
Yeah as the oil gets stuffed & separates into sludge & water thin brown stuff, the thin stuff isnít controlled by the rings so burns in combustion chamber & exits out the pipe.

As described the oil pressure is measured, not the level (on most bikes). In the old days of single cam Honda 4s the oil light was just a notification that your crank had just run a bearing & best you think of how you can pay for it by the time you get home.

When you start it after changing the oil it takes a tickle to pump the oil around so the light is on for a few seconds & nothing to worry about.

scumdog
24th February 2005, 11:55
If you're anal like me you whip the plugs out and spin the engine on the starter motor until the oil light goes out after putting a new filter and oil in an engine (or at least until you think the filter is full if you don't want to grind the engine over THAT long).
Then bang the plugs back in and away you go. (pays to earth the plugs as it is (apparently) not good for the ignition otherwise.

Just means there's no load on the engine until there's oil pressure.

ManDownUnder
24th February 2005, 13:07
If you're anal like me you whip the plugs out and spin the engine on the starter motor until the oil light goes out after putting a new filter and oil in an engine (or at least until you think the filter is full if you don't want to grind the engine over THAT long).
Then bang the plugs back in and away you go. (pays to earth the plugs as it is (apparently) not good for the ignition otherwise.

Just means there's no load on the engine until there's oil pressure.


You gotta do WHAT?!?!?

Jees...
Step 1 Run the engine till the oil's hot enough to burn your hands
2) put bsomething under your bike to catch said oil
3) burn your hands while taking out sump plug
4) burn your hands with gush of oil pouring out
5) burn your hands recovering sump plug from oil in container
6) remember to remove oil filler thingy
7) clean side of bike coz oil all over it from oily hands (refer 4 above)
8) burn your hands putting sump plug back in
9) fill with oil till it shows up in the little window thingy (you can use this new oil to soth your burned hands too)
10) put filler thingy back on
11) wipe hands clean(ish) and side of bike
12) head into burns unit
13) upon return, check oil level and return to step two above as needed

How do you guys do it?
MDU

scumdog
24th February 2005, 13:16
A lot less burning, a lot less mess but pretty much the same MDU, I tend to leave the oil to drain overnight too!

(Wipes spectacles, straightens all four pens in pocket protector and re-hangs anorak on porcelain coat-hook)

ManDownUnder
24th February 2005, 13:22
A lot less burning, a lot less mess but pretty much the same MDU, I tend to leave the oil to drain overnight too!

(Wipes spectacles, straightens all four pens in pocket protector and re-hangs anorak on porcelain coat-hook)

Oh wow - you are da MAN. I wish I had a pocket protector!
.

MDU :cool:

Motu
24th February 2005, 14:35
I wear blue overalls,that way no one can tell if my ball points leak.

Wow scumdog - you got a bike with spark plugs you can see,and then remove without dismantling the bike? oh,that's so seventies!

scumdog
24th February 2005, 14:44
I wear blue overalls,that way no one can tell if my ball points leak.

Wow scumdog - you got a bike with spark plugs you can see,and then remove without dismantling the bike? oh,that's so seventies!


And loving it!!
That's the reason for owning such an antiquated engine design, all you need (or as soo many people on TV adds say "awyouneed" grr!) is a Raliegh bike spanner, a common bed spanner and the screwdriver and spanner from a Meccano set and you are tooled up for a complete engine re-build and fork seal replacement job. :banana:

Dr Bob
24th February 2005, 14:50
I'm assuming the fork seal material is plumbers tape.

TonyB
24th February 2005, 15:21
yamaha to my knowledge is the only jap brand to use a oil LEVEL light instead of a oil Pressure light. As long as the bike isn't so low the oil pump can't circulate the oil then the oil light wont come on.
The lil flicker was as ya say the sensor detecting thin air.
I think --Including oil filter your bike holds about 2.5l so a half litre is a problem but she aint about to seize--Yet
The oil light in my FZR and my mates XV come on when the thing is full to the top. Fuggen annoying really. The sensor for mine must be on the LHS somewhere as it usually comes on after taking a right hander at speed...or is it the other way around? Anyway, you get the idea.

Dr Bob
24th February 2005, 15:45
I have the XV and I have the same problem. Usually goes away when the engine has been running for a few minutes. But the level light is inconsistent with the window level indicator.

avgas
24th February 2005, 15:48
Rule 1 - Oil gauge only reads from oil sensor - not whole bike, trust it as a last resort (long story). If you are unsure - keep an eye on the temp gauge, if it spikes or fluctuates, your in trouble.
Rule 2 - You also can hear when oil isnt where it should be (if you use a good oil), as the motor becomes quite noisy and ratt-like. Grinding noises, cam rattles....etc get worse with limited oil.
I only know the basics (others on here know way more than me), but these two rules have saved a total of 3 of my bikes so far.
Hope this limited intelligence saves another bike :2thumbsup

scumdog
24th February 2005, 16:32
I'm assuming the fork seal material is plumbers tape.

Roofing RTV, the screwdriver is only to scoop the congealed goop out of the nozzle so you can smear the fresh stuff around the leaky seal. :laugh:

FROSTY
24th February 2005, 23:00
I would have thought Yamaha would have a safety margin built in so the light comes on before you're sucking thin air,whats the point of a warning light coming on when it's just to tell you "sorry you've just rooted your motor"
my bad matey--check post time--anyhoo i meant to put--on your honda -if the oil light comes on.....

F5 Dave
25th February 2005, 09:53
The oil light in my FZR and my mates XV come on when the thing is full to the top. Fuggen annoying really. The sensor for mine must be on the LHS somewhere as it usually comes on after taking a right hander at speed...or is it the other way around? Anyway, you get the idea.

Yeah FZRs are known for it, The YZF doesnít seem to give false readings but I seem to remember one of the early 1000 tests they had the issue. Scared a few FZR riders for no reason. Hard to make a level indicator in such a harsh environment I guess.

Velox
25th February 2005, 15:33
You are a bad bad girl for not keeping up with this vital maintenance ritual. Nuff said.

She was told by all on the welly cruise last week bout regular maintenance..... probly did it this week so we couldnt giv her shite tonite....... :done:

Velox - you shouldnt have done anything serious yet, and it'll like you for a while now uve changed it. theres usually around a half litre variation on the scale on the oil level gauge so you dont wanna have to put more than that in............... :whistle: ..

Oi you lot! Every other time I've done my oil change pretty much on the dot so enough of that nonsence thanks! Straight to your rooms. :blah:


The bike's fine - I know I haven't hurt it (yet) but I didn't realise it was an oil pressure gauge rather than oil level. So I take it that the light is basically just to tell you "Sorry - too late. Your bike is stuffed. Go away". Not so useful.

Cheers for the advice guys!

PS: It takes 2.2L (when changing the filter too) and is a very happy bike at the mo with new oil. Although I haven't noticed much of a difference (except it won't use up nearly as much oil now).

vifferman
25th February 2005, 15:53
Hard to make a level indicator in such a harsh environment I guess.
When the engine's running, yes, then an idiot light for pressure is better.
Our car has an oil level gauge - comes on when you turn the key on, and stays on for the first 15 seconds after the engine's running. And the other car has two gauges for the cooling system (probably because it has a very thin, lightweight aluminium radiator, like a bike) - one gauge for temperature, the other for the level in the coolant reservoir / expansion tank.

DEATH_INC.
25th February 2005, 20:13
You gotta do WHAT?!?!?

Jees...
Step 1 Run the engine till the oil's hot enough to burn your hands
2) put bsomething under your bike to catch said oil
3) burn your hands while taking out sump plug
4) burn your hands with gush of oil pouring out
5) burn your hands recovering sump plug from oil in container
6) remember to remove oil filler thingy
7) clean side of bike coz oil all over it from oily hands (refer 4 above)
8) burn your hands putting sump plug back in
9) fill with oil till it shows up in the little window thingy (you can use this new oil to soth your burned hands too)
10) put filler thingy back on
11) wipe hands clean(ish) and side of bike
12) head into burns unit
13) upon return, check oil level and return to step two above as needed

How do you guys do it?
MDU
That's pretty much it,cept after step 4 you retreive the drain container that you sent flying pulling your hands away from the hot oil and look for something(like the mrs sweater...)to soak up the 3 litres of oil thats now flooding the gargre....

madboy
25th February 2005, 20:37
Oi you lot! Every other time I've done my oil change pretty much on the dot so enough of that nonsence thanks! Straight to your rooms. :blah:


The bike's fine - I know I haven't hurt it (yet) but I didn't realise it was an oil pressure gauge rather than oil level. So I take it that the light is basically just to tell you "Sorry - too late. Your bike is stuffed. Go away". Not so useful.

Cheers for the advice guys!

PS: It takes 2.2L (when changing the filter too) and is a very happy bike at the mo with new oil. Although I haven't noticed much of a difference (except it won't use up nearly as much oil now).How bout before next Thur you remove the oil completely so I don't have so much trouble keeping up? :2thumbsup

DarkNinja
25th February 2005, 21:05
I guess im a shocker. Ive done 6000kms on the wee beastie and i havent changed the oil yet. im just reading up on a website how to do it for the GPX and i dont get this oil changing thingie. filter: where do i get that? tighten to 14.5 lb/fts: i dont have a speciallydesignedcompressionomater to do that so i might bung up.
it also mentions types of oils but its amercaaan so i dont know how that converts to with the purity etc of the oil in nz. dont know about synthetics and stuff either.
Im a newbie to all this stuff i confess. some help?
DN

FlyingDutchMan
26th February 2005, 09:59
I changed my oil just over a week ago. Drained out ~13 litres of crap. I had intended on changing the oil at 3,300km, but the bike waspretty insistent that it happen at 2500km. So it stuck float valve in carb one open a tiny amount, and the entire tank drained through carb, inlet valve, cylinder, past piston into the sump, past outlet valve into exhaust, back up the carb and into the air box and into the carb 2 just for good measure. and this happened in Tekapo while sitting for a few days after it wouldn't start post tank fill. :doh: Took me six hours of work to dissassemble, drain the sump, clean the carbs, de-hydro lock piston 1, put fresh oil in and reassemble the beast. Runs like an absolute dream now though. I highly recommend a carb clean!