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FROSTY
25th March 2009, 17:58
Riffer has a lil RG150 in his gargre. Battery is as flat as a pancake.
In neutral it will rev right up no issues.
In gear aparently it wont rev into the power band.
OTHER than the fact that he's used to riding a heap bigger 4 stroke bike so possibly aint wringing it out can you think of any other reason it wont rev.

quallman1234
25th March 2009, 18:15
Probabaly the Power valves. They are a unfortnate issue on the RG's. The centre's are probabaly buggered, repairable tho :).

Is the bike pulling up to about 10-11 at a push, but not much more.

riffer
25th March 2009, 20:16
Yeah, that just about sums it up exactly.

Trust me, I know how to ring a bike out LOL.

Its not revving freely.

CookMySock
25th March 2009, 20:47
Dunno much about powervalves and stuff, but being a 2 stroke, the very first thing I would do is put some fresh gas and a new spark plug in it, and see what it had to say for itself.

Steve

quallman1234
25th March 2009, 20:49
Yeah, that just about sums it up exactly.

Trust me, I know how to ring a bike out LOL.

Its not revving freely.

I can come take a look if you want. Im no expert but have had many RG's apart, and back together. Most likely will be the powervalves.
Definetely sounds like the power valves, what luckily is a easy fix most of the time. But requires a good welder/machinst. Not worth buying new ones as they are 400$ or something stuipd.
Pete Jones does swaps where you swap buggered ones for new ones for X amount, way cheaper than new ones.
Powervalves make a massive difference, like over 50% more power between closed and open. Must inspect them every 5000km because they are a major weakness on the RG150's

Cheers
Kyle

FROSTY
25th March 2009, 22:53
dont pull it appart unless its goin back together before sunday.

quallman1234
26th March 2009, 13:36
dont pull it appart unless its goin back together before sunday.

Going away. I take it your coming to get it/whatever. Might as well leave it till it gets to you then. Its a minimal thing to pull apart. Just take the radiator off and then the powervalve cover and ta da.

FROSTY
26th March 2009, 15:27
Going away. I take it your coming to get it/whatever. Might as well leave it till it gets to you then. Its a minimal thing to pull apart. Just take the radiator off and then the powervalve cover and ta da.
Sorry dude I was tired last night--patroling the property for bike theives
ANYHOO Clivorus is picking the bike up monday I think and my lad is gonna be riding it in the carpark/pits at taupo track. SoI was just worried it wouldnt be back together in time

quallman1234
26th March 2009, 16:11
Sorry dude I was tired last night--patroling the property for bike theives
ANYHOO Clivorus is picking the bike up monday I think and my lad is gonna be riding it in the carpark/pits at taupo track. SoI was just worried it wouldnt be back together in time

If you going to take it on the track, id strongly reconmend getting the power valves fixed. Its a realtively easy fix and you only have to take off one cover.
Bike should still be rideable although a little bit slower than it should be, but still be able to 100+

No worries. Hopefully i'll see you kid out there this year :).

FROSTY
26th March 2009, 16:13
If you going to take it on the track, id strongly reconmend getting the power valves fixed. Its a realtively easy fix and you only have to take off one cover.
Bike should still be rideable although a little bit slower than it should be, but still be able to 100+

No worries. Hopefully i'll see you kid out there this year :).
So what exactly is involved in fixing it ?

quallman1234
26th March 2009, 16:17
So what exactly is involved in fixing it ?

Hey mate ill send you the RG150 manual. Whats your email?

Well without seeing the powervalves i can't say, but the most probabale thing is that the centres of the powervalves have been flogged out.
However theres other things what can go wrong, ultimately they can fall down the cylinder and fuck the whole engine.
The actuator could be buggered as well and a number of other things.

If they are flogged out its a matter of welding the flogged part up, however they are hardened steel so you need a very good tig welder. A couple years ago i got Luke Jamesons one's fixed at my dads work, to a very good standard. (My dad owns a engineering company).
You can make a number of things up for em.

I'll try find you a picture to show you what im talking about.

If its his first time out there i wouldn't worry about it mate :).

ajturbo
26th March 2009, 18:20
it will only take about 10min to get to them... tops...

it is not a big job, but it NEEDS to be done, or you will be up for a new piston.... etc..

but i would REPLACE the batery first!
(after new plug and fuel )

make sure you increase the gear box oil by 100mls!!!!

and make sure when you ride/race it that 13k is seen on rev counter often... will keep things clear...

it in ANY doubt, PM Oyster, he has ALL the knowledge on these bikes

riffer
26th March 2009, 19:19
Okay...

So far I have tried:

1. Recharge battery.
2. Replace petrol
3. Replace oily (but brand new) NGK BR7ES spark plug with new one
4. Cleaned out the carb

and the damned thing STILL won't rev over 11K.

I may have put you wrong before Tony - the bike is revving easier to 11K at idle than under load but it still won't go over those revs.

So it's looking like it's the powervalves. Is the actuator the box under the tank with electric leads going in and a cable coming out?

It's all back together again so no worries.

Hey - the back brakes are still a worry. That rear rotor will be lucky if it has 3mm thickness. It's so skinny the pistons don't stand a chance to retract so the pad is stuck against the rotor and the rotors getting a bit warm. You'll definitely have to get a new rotor.

And no - it ain't my shitty workmanship. Those pistons are polished to within an inch of their lives and the seals checked and rubberlubed before reassembly AND the pad edges and slides lightly lubed.

MDR2
26th March 2009, 19:25
I've had mine apart enough times now that I can have the seats,tank fairing muffler and cylinder head off within 15 minutes. Theres not alot to the set up. just need the right tools to repair the damage thats there.

As has been mentioned previously Oyster is a good man to deal with and turns things around like you needed them yesterday.

FROSTY
26th March 2009, 20:38
thanks guys. I think Im actually happy it wont pull past 11k . He's NEVER ridden a road type bike so thattll keep him from being an eejut
That said the last owner only used the bike as a commutter so I wouldnt be suprised if it aint real gummed up in there

quallman1234
26th March 2009, 20:59
Its definetely the powervalves.

There is a way to test em. I'll pm you the manual link. I'll put a 5er that the centres are flogged out.

Only problem with that frosty is that there's a chance they could meet the piston.

Cheers
Kyle

MDR2
27th March 2009, 07:21
I had a similar problem only the other month, what it eventually turned out to be was the grub screw that locks the bar and piece of metal with the u shaped groove in it had unwound itself and fallen out. meaning the valves were just sitting in the shut position. easy fix but the piston did get a light shave from the valves.

quallman1234
27th March 2009, 14:04
I had a similar problem only the other month, what it eventually turned out to be was the grub screw that locks the bar and piece of metal with the u shaped groove in it had unwound itself and fallen out. meaning the valves were just sitting in the shut position. easy fix but the piston did get a light shave from the valves.

Ive had that problem as well, but they tend to open the valves up a little due to the grit on the actuator rod.

koba
27th March 2009, 20:31
thanks guys. I think Im actually happy it wont pull past 11k . He's NEVER ridden a road type bike so thattll keep him from being an eejut
That said the last owner only used the bike as a commutter so I wouldnt be suprised if it aint real gummed up in there

I thought I had sent a reply PM to riffer about this but I had stuffed up and not sent it.
I would be wary about running it with a dodgy battery and suspect powervalves, its not alot of money and effort to get a new battery and clean out the powervalves. Both are really Important!
I wouldn't worry about the speed of it, I would worry about potential of it destrying itsself.
A bike can get away with alot more as a commuter and if it is in a substandard condition and then taken out on the track to get the hiding of its life you may be in for tears. a bit of care and attention can save alot of stress and money.
Things I would be sure to check before you take it out are that the carb and airbox are firmly secure, they can rattle loose and pull the carb off causing a seizure.
Powervalves of course, and adjustment too; the electronic box can burn out if its trying to pull unadjusted cables.
Plug cap, shit stock ones crap out easy.
I run a BR8ES.
and MAKE SURE IT IS REALLY WARMED UP BEFORE IT EVEN GETS OFF THE DUMMY GRID!!!!

koba
27th March 2009, 20:34
I had a similar problem only the other month, what it eventually turned out to be was the grub screw that locks the bar and piece of metal with the u shaped groove in it had unwound itself and fallen out. meaning the valves were just sitting in the shut position. easy fix but the piston did get a light shave from the valves.


Yep, the grub screw that the manual has underlined bold capitals saying USE SUZUKI SUPERBOND or wahtever they call loctite!:whistle:
The sound of a piston humping powervalves is sickening!:wacko:

MDR2
27th March 2009, 21:48
Yep, the grub screw that the manual has underlined bold capitals saying USE SUZUKI SUPERBOND or wahtever they call loctite!:whistle:
The sound of a piston humping powervalves is sickening!:wacko:

yeahhhhh and you don't have to be shy using it either :rolleyes:

MDR2
27th March 2009, 22:00
Powervalves of course, and adjustment too; the electronic box can burn out if its trying to pull unadjusted cables.

and MAKE SURE IT IS REALLY WARMED UP BEFORE IT EVEN GETS OFF THE DUMMY GRID!!!!


Adjustment... right... I have a question, when setting up my valves I lined up the line with the notch with the cable from the battery grounded... sweet

How do I know that over the years there's not been any wear and that now by lining up those two markers im not purposefully putting the valve in danger of touching the piston? I guess what im wanting to know is, which way would i set the line on the pulley so that the valves were backed off from the piston a fraction when closed ie town riding/idling


secondly... tough bike to get warmed up eh? Id usually let the bike run 4-5 mins before the 20 minute motorway ride i used to do. Hardly had the gauge hitting quater way. I've blanked off maybe a 3rd of the radiator with a piece of cardboard to aid things. Any tips?

koba
29th March 2009, 08:59
Adjustment... right... I have a question, when setting up my valves I lined up the line with the notch with the cable from the battery grounded... sweet

How do I know that over the years there's not been any wear and that now by lining up those two markers im not purposefully putting the valve in danger of touching the piston? I guess what im wanting to know is, which way would i set the line on the pulley so that the valves were backed off from the piston a fraction when closed ie town riding/idling

If the tension is set correctly it shouldn't be able to force the valves down into the piston, they naturally sit higher than that so it is only incorrect cable adjustment that will push them down lower, which is why it important to check the cable frequently.
I rebuilt the pulley bit of mine to eliminate play where the spring rubs away the aluminium but I dont really think the gain was worth all the effort.
Mine has done over 50,000 km.



secondly... tough bike to get warmed up eh? Id usually let the bike run 4-5 mins before the 20 minute motorway ride i used to do. Hardly had the gauge hitting quater way. I've blanked off maybe a 3rd of the radiator with a piece of cardboard to aid things. Any tips?

Nope, you are on the money with that.
The usless guage is normal, mine hardly moves unless there is a problem.
If you are really worried you could buy a decent digital themometer and whack that on it but the crappy stock one is good enough to let you know if its about to have a meltdown.

FROSTY
1st April 2009, 15:54
WELL GUYS-- the poor lil thing got thrashed all day by william.
he complained he could "only" get to 100km/h down the straights.
Im gutted --not

MDR2
1st April 2009, 16:59
:weep:My valves have noticably started rattling when im off the gas and at idle :( So look's like i'll be opening her up again this weekend... it never gets old.

Str8 Jacket
1st April 2009, 17:09
it never gets old.

Trust me. It does!! But ya still love em. Something about addiction or something! ;)

MDR2
1st April 2009, 18:43
hehe, you didn't pick up on the internet sarcasims :)

If I could afford a 4 cyl I would sell the RG and move that way.

FruitLooPs
6th April 2009, 15:49
IMO the stock temp gauge on it isn't worth jack, and yes they do take ages to warm up even more so with a decent coolant in it. Stick a digital temp probe on the powervalve box.

I remember the dreaded powervalve rattling three different times on my RG and the associated $$$ that always came with it. :2guns:

In the end Pete J turned me some custom lapped powervalves since the barrel was old and the p/valve ports worn to the point that new valves had just enough play to rattle until they snapped at the stems after a few months..

Custom ones have done a year no worries so far and a track day last sunday. Bit harder to ride since the mid range rpms are lower until it opens (single stage not 3 stage bladed) but the speedo still read 165k/hr down the front straight at Ruapuna so top ends all good.

Not bad for 63,500km on the bike :Punk: Unlike my NSR250 which seized at the same trackday on its first outing in my possession *sigh* 2-strokes eh ;)

Macros
9th April 2009, 17:18
I currently have this problem now...

Which parts need tig welding? Does anyone have any pictures?

Ive already given the "power valve box" a good clean. No screws loose =\

FROSTY
9th April 2009, 17:25
I dunno--It takes stuff all to haul the whole shooting match off and send it to pete--thats what Ive done