Breaking in a bike

[gavjn]

i have a zx6r and am currently breaking it in, have done bout 150ks on it and missed second and hit neutral at 8k revs... is it bad that this has happend?

also, have heard many different things bout breaking them in, owners manual states that 1st 800ks go no higher than 4k revs and 2nd 800ks go no higher than 6k revs... i kno this is the bottom end mark so that they cant get bitten in the ass bout anythin, but 4k revs is NOTHING ><

wats acceptable?

[Squiggles]

You can do it however you want, most just follow the manufacturers specs and get it serviced when the warranty requires. You can search kb for threads on breaking in a new bike, there have been many!
An 8k burst wont kill it. But do warm the bike up properly before you ride it :)

[YellowDog]

Mate, this is yur new bike and you want it to last you a fair while before it starts using oil and gets clapped out.

If you run it in as per the book, you will be fine. You don't have to follow the words to the letter, just take it easy and don't over rev or strain the engine at too low revs.

It won't take long to build up enough Ks to start going faster.

The odd blip in neutral won't hurt.

Good luck.

[pete376403]

Spinning up to 8k without any load on the motor won't hurt it. What really kills motors is heat, caused by (among other things) lugging the engine in too high a gear at too low revs.

[macros87]

so you still having to ride the gsx 250? that is really tragic.. they have ways of keeping the engine running for tests and what not at the factory, youd think they could break em in themselves, just keep the engine running at the revs desired, for the time desired, then sell the bikes as broken in from the factory..

[gavjn]

so you still having to ride the gsx 250? that is really tragic.. they have ways of keeping the engine running for tests and what not at the factory, youd think they could break em in themselves, just keep the engine running at the revs desired, for the time desired, then sell the bikes as broken in from the factory..

lol yea the 250's shit, havnt riden it for a while, once i startd using the ninja i jst looked at the 250 with disgust and took the other 1 out.

at 4k revs the bike only goes 70kmh >< damn break in period!!!

[discotex]

No higher than 4000RPM for the first 800km? WTF?! That'd probably damage the engine due to bogging unless you only rode in 1st gear. Given you'll idle about 1400RPM it's pretty weird.

Fark you'd barely make 60km/h in 6th and the poor bike would be groaning :shutup:

The important things when breaking in an engine is to not labour the engine at low RPM or rev it high while under load (like wide open throttle trying to wheelie etc). You want to gradually build up to to redline over the first 1000km but don't do it under load. If you're riding on the motorway change gears a lot so you don't get stuck on one RPM.

[macros87]

well only the first 800 km sound difficult, with the second 800 you will probably be capable of motorway speeds and will make it much easier to cover those 800 k.. just out of curiosity what does it red line at?

[Korumba]

i have a zx6r and am currently breaking it in, have done bout 150ks on it and missed second and hit neutral at 8k revs... is it bad that this has happend?

also, have heard many different things bout breaking them in, owners manual states that 1st 800ks go no higher than 4k revs and 2nd 800ks go no higher than 6k revs... i kno this is the bottom end mark so that they cant get bitten in the ass bout anythin, but 4k revs is NOTHING ><

wats acceptable?



I am too tired to answer this one, pm Gordie on this site he will give you a concise answer on your predicament

[zzzbang]

call your dealer, they should have an answer more reliable than random opinions on the forum.

[gavjn]

well only the first 800 km sound difficult, with the second 800 you will probably be capable of motorway speeds and will make it much easier to cover those 800 k.. just out of curiosity what does it red line at?

redlines at 16k

[discotex]

call your dealer, they should have an answer more reliable than random opinions on the forum.

Judging by some of the stuff I've heard at dealers I think you'll find they just read KB to answer questions their customers ask :lol:

[zzzbang]

Judging by some of the stuff I've heard at dealers I think you'll find they just read KB to answer questions their customers ask :lol:

well i dont know about kawasakis.. but my suzuki dealer had a good break in method for me. start at 4000 rpm max for first 100km, then go up 1000rpm for every 100km you travel (until 1000km). worked well for me, got no issues. and.. since they sell the bikes everyday they are obviously going to have some kind of standard run in method to explain to their customers. Oh.. and important point... dont stay on constant revs, always keep increasing/decreasing it. (constant revs is supposed to make a mark in the cylinder which would cause the piston not to seal as well as it should later on)

[discotex]

well i dont know about kawasakis.. but my suzuki dealer had a good break in method for me.

Yeah it looks like this 4000RPM stuff is legit. I'm shocked.

My 600rr manual basically said "go for it but don't use full throttle or labour the engine for the first 1000km". The dealer said "nah nothing special... Just don't try wheelie it till after the first service" and laughed.

I'm inclined to believe nana-ing an engine is bad for it but it really depends on the engine and how much run-in it has had at the factory. Bogging and constant RPM is the real killer. Or lots of throttle on a cold engine.

Not sure I'd go this far on my own bike but this guy always stirs up a hornets nest.. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[zzzbang]

Not sure I'd go this far on my own bike but this guy always stirs up a hornets nest.. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Well, honestly i dont think its a bad idea. Been doing that on all our dirtbikes basically. Keep it calm for an hour or so to let it settle then ride/race like you want. Dont see why road bikes would be any different.

[discotex]

Well, honestly i dont think its a bad idea. Been doing that on all our dirtbikes basically. Keep it calm for an hour or so to let it settle then ride/race like you want. Dont see why road bikes would be any different.

Totally makes sense to me but for some reason I'm not sure I want to ride it like I stole it straight off the showroom floor. He's got some good points though.

[motorbyclist]

(constant revs is supposed to make a mark in the cylinder which would cause the piston not to seal as well as it should later on)

i've heard that a few times yet have never heard any sort of explaination


imho it shouldn't make much difference - it's just metal polishing metal, ideally without excessive heat/wear


Well, honestly i dont think its a bad idea. Been doing that on all our dirtbikes basically. Keep it calm for an hour or so to let it settle then ride/race like you want. Dont see why road bikes would be any different.

roadbikes should last atleast 50,000km without the rings giving in, whereas dirtbikes are meant to last a weekend or two (if you beleive what the manual says)

[Real_Wolf]

With the mark in the cylinder, one would assume that it wouldn't be doing anything keeping it at constant rev's anymore than it would 10,000k down the road

[motorbyclist]

With the mark in the cylinder, one would assume that it wouldn't be doing anything keeping it at constant rev's anymore than it would 10,000k down the road

reword please?


how does not varying the load wear a mark? it's a piston goign up and down over the same range reguardless of speed (give or take the 0.001mm stretch/squish in the conrod)

higher load (ie higher torque requirements) just means higher pressures in the chamber which means higher pressures on teh rings pushing against the cylinder (along with every other loaded bearing/gear through to the wheel). aslong as we minimise this until everything has mates properly what does it matter?

perhaps it's jsut to get us to use all the gears to ensure that they all have done the most part of their wear and run in properly before the 2nd oil change (again not loading the engine will mean less forces on the gears)

[Real_Wolf]

yeah, my post makes very little sense lol.

what I meant is that the 'don't keep it at constant revs' shouldn't truly matter much in terms of the engine, for the forces being placed against the cylinder, and indeed all the forces in the engine should not be that significantly varying over time (as in, over the km's that you travel), and as such the materials that it is constructed out of should not be experiencing any different stress/strain than they would be 10,000km down the road. And if the metal is finished off properly, the amount of stress/strain it can take won't change significantly either.

Though it could be for some other part of the bike that they don't want it at constant revs.

[bucket boy]

I am too tired to answer this one, pm Gordie on this site he will give you a concise answer on your predicament
does nodrog ride is bike i thought it just stays in the garage

[discotex]

what I meant is that the 'don't keep it at constant revs' shouldn't truly matter much in terms of the engine

Constant revs is possibly the lowest strain you can put on the engine while you're riding the bike. If you need some strain on the engine to bed things in then constant revs could be bad.

[jonbuoy]

Theres a lot of confusion because different parts of the engine need different ways to run in. Piston rings need a high engine loads to bed in properly and avoid glazing poor compression and oil burning, rotating surfaces need to polish each other and undergo a few heat cycles before things loosen up a little. Gears and shifters need to wear together. You´ll notice yourself some difference in the way the engine picks up once its run in.

The only thing thats definately bad for a new engine or any engine is raping from cold, sitting in traffic, lugging, excessive idling in the driveway. Common sense says mix it up and don´t be scared to give it a quick squirt every now and then.

[Real_Wolf]

ah thanks for clearing it up, its don't idle so it puts varying pressure so that other stuff has more pressure on it rather than that the low pressure damages it

[carver]

just thrash it

[gavjn]

just thrash it

rofl fuckn love it, str8 up and out of nowhere.

really wish that were the case, the bike has SOOO much more power than my pisshead 250 (which is unfortunatly the most powerful bike ive riden ><)

[carver]

rofl fuckn love it, str8 up and out of nowhere.

really wish that were the case, the bike has SOOO much more power than my pisshead 250 (which is unfortunatly the most powerful bike ive riden ><)

well, maybe i should have said just ride it normally and how you want.
il break in a bike properly in 100k, then just ride it how you want

[gavjn]

jst another noob question... wats lyk the hottest temp your engine shud get before its not good?

[3umph]

jst another noob question... wats lyk the hottest temp your engine shud get before its not good?

good question... and is the gauge reading correct??? and if you only have a gauge not a readout then what temp is what on the gauge???

[3umph]

Run the bike in as you want to ride it... just no full noise shit or laboring it... up and down the revs and gears is good

and warm it up first before doing anything....

find a good long twisty section of the road and go for it :2thumbsup

[gavjn]

ummm it runs at about 70-80 but at lights and shit it went 2 lyk 100...
jst never had a digital gauge so dont kno lol

[3umph]

in theory is is harder on an engine to be run cold rather then hot...

[sinfull]

does nodrog ride is bike i thought it just stays in the garage
And the shine ! The sun just so reflects of the polish (when it's at just the right height to shine in throught the garage window !


rofl fuckn love it, str8 up and out of nowhere.

really wish that were the case, the bike has SOOO much more power than my pisshead 250 (which is unfortunatly the most powerful bike ive riden ><)
Prolly why they have ya keep to 4k revs for the first 800 clicks lol



ummm it runs at about 70-80 but at lights and shit it went 2 lyk 100...
jst never had a digital gauge so dont kno lol 100 aint too high but i would let it get to say 110 and if ya fan don't cut in by then i'd worry !
Just dont load the bike by labouring it too much and like someone said start upping the revs by 1000 every 100 clicks after that first 800 ! Biggest would be not sitting on 4000 rpm all day and risk glazing the bore (which has already been mentioned) i'd rather take it over that limit ahead of loading or glazing !

[motorbyclist]

jst another noob question... wats lyk the hottest temp your engine shud get before its not good?

check the owners manual?

if the oil gets too hot it may get too thin, but that would/should have been considered in the oil choice when the kawasaki engineers designed the bike,

therefore, check what temperature the kawasaki engineers reckon is the maximum rather than KB punters:msn-wink:

[discotex]

ummm it runs at about 70-80 but at lights and shit it went 2 lyk 100...
jst never had a digital gauge so dont kno lol

My fan kicks in around 104-106c.

[motorbyclist]

it might pay to mention that coolant doesn't boil until 110 ro 120 degrees, and that while it's boiling off the temperature should not rise any further (until the water is gone, that is....)

[Chrislost]

i have a zx6r and am currently breaking it in, have done bout 150ks on it and missed second and hit neutral at 8k revs... is it bad that this has happend?

also, have heard many different things bout breaking them in, owners manual states that 1st 800ks go no higher than 4k revs and 2nd 800ks go no higher than 6k revs... i kno this is the bottom end mark so that they cant get bitten in the ass bout anythin, but 4k revs is NOTHING ><

wats acceptable?

Im guna break mine in at taupo.
i say after 100km do to it what your guna do to it. they redline them at the factory before shipping them to us.

[The Stranger]

That's it, It's fucked now.
Give you $3,000.00 for it.

[The Stranger]

Im guna break mine in at taupo.
i say after 100km do to it what your guna do to it.

Rode my Fazer straight to Taupo, took it easy for the first session, then to hell with it.
Two smoker's No3 race bike was run in between Mt Eden Motorcycles and Silverdale (30km?) then it was full noise for the next 1500km.
Interestingly the No3 bike had better HP than the No1 bike which was lovingly broken in and significantly more modified. Go figure.

[Chrislost]

Constant revs is possibly the lowest strain you can put on the engine while you're riding the bike. If you need some strain on the engine to bed things in then constant revs could be bad.

Dont forget that a modern 600's engine is designed to... accelerate, then decelerate...
not for cruzing aw bro bro down mission bay for a pimp.

I read somwhere that constant revs heats the same parts, whereas varying revs allows the parts to become loaded then unloaded and release heat.

it was on this website or in the GSXR owners manual...