My learnings from spending too much money and not getting the results I wanted.
I hope you find some savings in my learnings.
Key details when buying a camera are lens, sensor, recording medium, battery life and fitness for purpose.
Lens:10mm diameter should be a minimum for action. Good results can be had with less but this will be unreliable at best. Glass optics are better. Coated and or ground is best.
Plastic is cheaper. A lot cheaper. Good for risky stuff. Painful to try and get good crisp results.
Sensor is important. CMOS are cheaper but needs more processing or a higher sensor count.
Frames per second (FPS), 30 is adequate for walking pace but 60 is minimum for action unless you are happy to have the picture paginate, or break up into little squares along the edges of moving things. Over 60 FPS picture appears clearer even if it is not.
Storage, you will need about a gb per hour at 720p 60fps. More if you want higher res, sound etc. 6 hours you'll need 6gb plus a spare amount for the length of your last clip. Eg if you film in 1gb clips you need 1gb of cache left on your disk or the last file may be corrupted, or not even save. All of this needs to go somewhere when it comes out if the camera. Buy storage for your camera in the fastest class acceptable or action clips can corrupt. Losing shots because of a cheap or second hand disk sucks.
Editing. If you only have 1gb of available ram on your PC keep your files shorter than 1gb. Or you can speed processing of edits up by recoding in half GB size chunks. Staring the obvious but that scales. To properly edit 4gb files you need either a super fast processor and disks or 4gb of available ram.
I did not know this when I first got my cam consequence is I have a lot of unedited footage. Useless because it is hours of footage with only a few interesting bits.
Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
Sometimes the obvious can be overlooked esp when a bike is parked on centre stand
OK I already know real bikes don't need a centre stand, but I find it convenient for mods and maintenance
Was really surprised when I actually check tyre pressure, they looked and felt rock hard.
I normally check then weekly, but I had forgotten to check as I hadn't ridden her for a while.
So the question is have you checked YOURS
READ AND UDESTAND
OMG Friday! what happened to beer and crisps.
Sounds like the plan, usually rushing to work, but I do it on Mondays evenings mostly, its so relaxing to check the bike over. I am getting the hang of what to look for and do from yous fellas at SASS. Its a gentle wind down from work and crap TV. Going to make a label to attach to bike to remind me about what pressures to set.
Yeah a wash thats this weekend before a ride Sunday I reckon .
READ AND UDESTAND
My first bike mechanic swore by give the bike a good wash after the first good downpour them don't wash again till summer weather arrives if you are a daily rider. Give it a good clean if the bike will not be ridden for a week. Keep forks and shock seals and travel clean.
I can't say it is a better system than washing and lubing the bike after every ride, but it seems to work better than weekly bucket clean and it is something I have time for.
Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
So when do you safety check your motorcycle? And how? Im not talking creating a showbike but a basic clean that keeps grime building up on critical areas like brakes, fork tubes, shock shafts, etc. This would take half an hour at worst. Good time to check all your bulbs to. I may go through this as a topic tonight.
Fork seals? Do it by flaring the seals, there is a technique to it. Any fine clean grease will do and every few months. Very important if you have a bike with coated fork tubes. Very simple to do and takes 10 mins.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks