Worst nightmare come true...

**cbfb** · 14th November 2010, 17:02

Dead keen to get out for a ride, I was putting the bike back together this arvo after adjusting the tappets. Putting the cam journal holders back in, I was too impatient to stop to wonder why my shitty Repco torque wrench wasn't clicking off until SNAP... bollocks... later testing revealed that the wrench is buggered, won't click off at all.

So now I've got a stud down in one of the bolt holes (nope not fortunate enough to have a bit sticking out I can grab hold of).

I could try drilling it out in situ but then I'd have shrapnel all over the place, bad idea.

As far as I know my only option is to have the whole head off and get it to an engineers. Real pain in the arse.

Anyone got any brighter ideas? Failing that anyone recommend a good engineer in Palmy or nearby?

Pissed that I will have to redo this afternoon's work too

Any advice would be much appreciated.

**pete376403** · 14th November 2010, 17:16

If it just broke because of overtightening, with luck the thread won't be damaged and the broken bit *might* wind out if you can push it around with a sharp pick. There are also left hand drill bits that you use with the drillmotor running in reverse - they dig in while cutting the hole and again *might* spin the broken bit out.

Keep violence as the very last resort.

**cbfb** · 14th November 2010, 17:28

Originally Posted by pete376403

If it just broke because of overtightening, with luck the thread won't be damaged and the broken bit *might* wind out if you can push it around with a sharp pick. There are also left hand drill bits that you use with the drillmotor running in reverse - they dig in while cutting the hole and again *might* spin the broken bit out.

Keep violence as the very last resort.

I'll give the pick a try although from the broken end that came off I think the stud will be pretty mangled, would be suprised if it comes out easily.

The drill bits sound promising. Have got a tap and die kit round here somewhere so I could probably manage that. Only problem is I can't really do it in situ cause there'll be metal shrapnel all over the place.

I'll save the violence till I take that torque wrench back to ripco... Although I should give myself a slap for not registering that 8 ft lbs doesn't require a lot of muscle...

**Katman** · 14th November 2010, 17:29

If you need to drill the broken piece out pack plenty of rags around the hole you're drilling and coat the tip of the drill bit with grease to contain any swarf.

**Edbear** · 14th November 2010, 17:29

Originally Posted by cbfb

Dead keen to get out for a ride, I was putting the bike back together this arvo after adjusting the tappets. Putting the cam journal holders back in, I was too impatient to stop to wonder why my shitty Repco torque wrench wasn't clicking off until SNAP... bollocks... later testing revealed that the wrench is buggered, won't click off at all.

So now I've got a stud down in one of the bolt holes (nope not fortunate enough to have a bit sticking out I can grab hold of).

I could try drilling it out in situ but then I'd have shrapnel all over the place, bad idea.

As far as I know my only option is to have the whole head off and get it to an engineers. Real pain in the arse.

Anyone got any brighter ideas? Failing that anyone recommend a good engineer in Palmy or nearby?

Pissed that I will have to redo this afternoon's work too

Any advice would be much appreciated.

That sucks! Sympthies! Wot Pete sed!

**Rhys** · 14th November 2010, 17:35

you use to be able the use a thing could a ezy out, it was a little bit like a drill bit and you drill it into the bolt or stud until it locked and it would undo the stud i borrowed it of a mechanic friend, probably be able to buy them at super cheap or repco cheap as now days

**cbfb** · 14th November 2010, 17:38

Thanks Katman, good advice and will hopefully save me any further effort of taking everything apart.

Thanks Rhys will check those out, think I know what you mean, had something similar in the UK but didn't bring them when I shifted over here.

Cheers Edbear - will let you all know how it goes.

Any recommendations for a new torque wrench that will be suitable for light work (from around 6 ft lbs)?

**hayd3n** · 14th November 2010, 17:59

Originally Posted by cbfb

Thanks Katman, good advice and will hopefully save me any further effort of taking everything apart.

Thanks Rhys will check those out, think I know what you mean, had something similar in the UK but didn't bring them when I shifted over here.

Cheers Edbear - will let you all know how it goes.

Any recommendations for a new torque wrench that will be suitable for light work (from around 6 ft lbs)?

my friend bought a digital torque tool works a treat but its from ripco i dont think it did below 20 ft lbs tho

**Edbear** · 14th November 2010, 18:19

Originally Posted by cbfb

Thanks Katman, good advice and will hopefully save me any further effort of taking everything apart.

Thanks Rhys will check those out, think I know what you mean, had something similar in the UK but didn't bring them when I shifted over here.

Cheers Edbear - will let you all know how it goes.

Any recommendations for a new torque wrench that will be suitable for light work (from around 6 ft lbs)?

Give Sarge a call on 0274-887 457 or Sulco direct 0800-800 448 or email him on Dallas.Barnett@Sulco.co.nz

**cbfb** · 14th November 2010, 18:19

Originally Posted by hayd3n

my friend bought a digital torque tool works a treat but its from ripco i dont think it did below 20 ft lbs tho

nah i've been looking and it seems a bit difficult to get a 'cheaper' one that does below 20ft. Have been looking at some on TM but the range is around 5-18 ft lbs which is a bit limited.

**cbfb** · 14th November 2010, 18:20

Originally Posted by Edbear

Give Sarge a call on 0274-887 457 or Sulco direct 0800-800 448 or email him on Area 30

Will do, thanks for that.

**Grumph** · 14th November 2010, 18:23

I assume it's a 6mm screw ? If it's broken not more than about 5mm below the surface a good TIG welder can tack a pointed rod onto the end.
Then - voila - wind it out, assisted by the heat expanding the alloy head slightly.

**220 Ohms** · 14th November 2010, 18:43

I had the same thing happen to me, twice.
The bolts should turn easy as there is no tension on them anymore.
The first I was able to slowly turn using a pair of needle nose pliers.
The second didn't have enough sticking out to grab (as well as being down a hole) so I bought a 2mm left hand drill bit, covered the whole area with rags and used a blob of grease around the hole to contain any bits. Drilled into it then tapped a punch lightly into it and turned the sucker out.
My problem was caused by metal fatigue in the original bolts, I replaced all of them after that, check your remaining ones for any signs of stretching, I wouldn't want you to have to experience it again

**cbfb** · 14th November 2010, 19:01

Originally Posted by Grumph

I assume it's a 6mm screw ? If it's broken not more than about 5mm below the surface a good TIG welder can tack a pointed rod onto the end.
Then - voila - wind it out, assisted by the heat expanding the alloy head slightly.

Could be an option... although getting it to a TIG welder's would be a bit of a pain.

Originally Posted by 220 Ohms

I had the same thing happen to me, twice.
The bolts should turn easy as there is no tension on them anymore.
The first I was able to slowly turn using a pair of needle nose pliers.
The second didn't have enough sticking out to grab (as well as being down a hole) so I bought a 2mm left hand drill bit, covered the whole area with rags and used a blob of grease around the hole to contain any bits. Drilled into it then tapped a punch lightly into it and turned the sucker out.
My problem was caused by metal fatigue in the original bolts, I replaced all of them after that, check your remaining ones for any signs of stretching, I wouldn't want you to have to experience it again

Not enough sticking out to grab hold of, but will definitely give the drill bit idea a go.