Ok so my new bike has a lovely notch in the steering that needs to get gone.
I'd like to save a few $ and change the bearings myself. It should be straight forward but I thought I would ask if there are any common traps you can fall into before I get busy.
Cheers.
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The bottom bearing can often be very difficult to get off the stem. Make sure you get a new dust seal, because it's likely you will shred the old one getting the bottom race off. I just drifted mine out with a cold chisel, took a while, and had to be real careful no to nick the stem. Course mine was on there 22 years, so hopefully newer ones won't be as stuck.
Jam and tarts....
Top is easy as mate.
For the bottom: As Bogan said, cold chisel.
When I did mine I had to use a bit of heat too.
I've also managed with two big flat blade screw drivers and levered the bearing up. Also involved heat.
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And do not ovetighten your new ones.
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Yea I've seen that done before, going to run with the torque wrench for that part me thinks.Originally Posted by unstuck
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteAnd do not ovetighten your new ones.
bottom one can be a bitch, ideally before using the other methods a puller but it's hard to get one that slots underneath the damn things otherwise get a mig welder and blob a bit of weld on it so the puller has something to bite on, the action of the welding often is also enough to braek any grip it has on the shaft too.
apply crc or similar to the shaft so as soon as there's movement some lube can find its way in and make it easier.
failing all this i'v e carefully got a disc grinder and cut the bearing vertically, don't usually need to go all the way before getting a cold chisel and splitting it
be careful as a previuos poster said not to nick the shaft
Go to a bicycle shop, they will be able to pull it with a crown race puller.
Hate it when ya shaft gets nickedThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Team Domy Racer !
A dude said it up there. If you know anyone with a stick welder, get a few blobs of weld on there. When the bearing cools from the welding, it will shrink a few hundredths and will come out piece of cake. Might even fall out.
Just don't arc out onto your frame.
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No8 Wire Extraordinaire
he's talking about the one on the stem, but as you say the lower bearing for some dumb reason can be the same dia as the frame. Welding it is the only real option. Then grind a couple of reliefs so the next karn in there in 10 years time can use a drift.
If there is any rule for the inexperienced to keep in mind, it is that everything a reasonable, intelligent person should intuitively believe to be right will probably be totally wrong. Gordon Jennings June 1996; musing on airflow through a 4 stroke engine. . . . Damn fool things that they are.
Ok I'm probably just a lazy sod. Personally I'd strip out what you can and then front up to the bike shop with the stem when you go to pick up the new bearings. Most workshops will have a decent sized press. Basicly what takes them 2 minutes can end up taking you 2 hours
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I just been reading how when you torque them down that roller bearings have diffrent torqueThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
to old stye ball bearings
Am thinking am going to have to learn alot about this as just brought accident damaged vfr 750
Thats got wreaked front end
Just got the Bike Dr to do mine.
After Spinergy and I saw the specialised tools required to adjust the head (think two torque wrenches that have to be really thin, and yet do up 2 inch+ diameter nuts), we figured it'd be cheaper to get someone else to do the job.
Bit worried now..just stripped and cleaned my GSXR600 head bearings. Fitted the lock nuts by feel-so steering is nice and smooth-but no freeplay. Should I be worried?
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no free play in your steering?This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
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