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Thread: EN 125 overhaul

  1. #16
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    Perhaps instead of fixing the shocks I could nab some off trademe.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-444966119.htm

    any thoughts?
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  2. #17
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    Great project ya got going there Dougie!

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nathanwhite View Post
    Perhaps instead of fixing the shocks I could nab some off trademe.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-444966119.htm

    any thoughts?
    If they fit, why not? They look much cooler than standard
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




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  4. #19
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    Your shocks are not rebuild able and if you get them to bits chances are they'll never go back together again. Not sure that I'd be spending money on the cheap ones off TM either, they are probably no better than the ones you have now.

  5. #20
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    Don't bother with the balls in the steering head bearings - get some tapered roller bearinds and put new steering head bearings in. Be a big improvement.
    New rear shocks (even cheapies) wil be a big improvement.
    The forks can be rechromed, but that does cost money. A budget way until you can find replacements or rechroming is to rub down the rusty bits,and fill with epoxy, once dry snad off with very fine emery paper until the pits match the forks.

    Be a good commuter once it is finished.
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  6. #21
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    Good effort Mate - will follow with interest.....
    "If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    Not sure that I'd be spending money on the cheap ones off TM either, they are probably no better than the ones you have now.
    Quote Originally Posted by geoffm View Post
    New rear shocks (even cheapies) wil be a big improvement.
    erm.... right.

    Well, I got the hundred dollar ones of trademe, ill try both of them when the bike is back together
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  8. #23
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    Alrighty! got some more work done today (I have plenty of free time atm because uni hasn't started I suspect it will be a different story in a week)

    Issues with that fork notwithstanding I have decided to start rebuilding as much as I can whilst sorting out the fork, rather then focusing on it and driving myself insane. That said I do have a thought for it, a little more on that later

    Greased up the lower half of the bottom steering head race
    Photobucket


    And then cleaned and installed the balls one at a time
    (can you say, tedious, boys and girls?)

    Anyway with that done I greased the top half of the race and installed the lower triple in.
    Then realized that maybe it would be a good idea to install the top bearing before I screwed it down.



    So grease
    Photobucket

    Balls

    Photobucket

    Installed

    Photobucket

    And cleaned up

    Photobucket

    Lower triple in

    Photobucket

    Onto the top triple!

    The two screws that held the ignition in were done up so tight that after a full five minutes of trying I gave up and cleaned it with it still attached

    Photobucket
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    Plonked it on the steering head and torqued it down to the recommended factory setting of "rather tight" by the highly accurate fingerometer

    Photobucket

    Checked that it couldnt move independantly of the lower triple but didnt affect steering movement and I was done.
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  9. #24
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    So my idea with the forks is to drill out this little doohickey that is holding all the other innards in

    Photobucket
    Photobucket


    Right now conventional wisdom is screaming at me to rebuild the other fork and be done with it.
    However I have a new set of fork seals on order and I dont want to have one fork with a new seal and oil (or just oil) and one old.

    So if I can drill it out without (hopefully) damaging the other internal components then get a machinist to make up another one based on the one pictured from the other fork.


    oh and my dad says he has some easy outs which we will try on the weekend

    But then we drill!!
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  10. #25
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    Made some progress, infact, quite a lot of progress.

    Cleaned and stuck on the swingarm

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    The frame design is a little irritating, one of the main engine bolts is also the swingarm bolt.
    So thats going to have to come off again when the engine is going back in

    Photobucket

    Put the old shocks back in while i'm waiting for the new ones to arrive

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    And wouldn't you know it, the very next day!

    Photobucket

    Now they are a little longer, but thats not really an issue, what is however is the bottom connector.
    To get it to fit i'm going to have to drill it oversize and there is not a lot of metal left on the bottom

    Photobucket

    But anyway, rear wheel and sprocket on

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Finally managed to (partially) get the brake caliper open. Still not completely there but closeish
    The bit pictured is apart that was just for dramatic purposes
    Photobucket

    Drilled out the fork cap thing which wasn't nearly as hard or long as I thougt it was going to be.
    Turns out the reason it was stuck was because some dipstick screwed it on waay to far, past where the thread ended.

    Photobucket

    All out
    Photobucket

    due to the (also irritating) design of the inner fork tubes, they came straight out and to get the fork seals out I had to spend about half an hour pulling, poking, prodding and snipping with pliers and wire cutters to get them out

    Photobucket

    and the other one

    Photobucket



    Now for a funny (and facepalmish) moment. I bought some metal epoxy to try on the fork tubes

    Photobucket

    Once I had a fair amount of it on and it had hardened for almost the specified time, I found that getting it thin enough to cover the pitting but not to come off completely was damn near impossible

    Photobucket

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    Then i realized that I hadn't stripped the pitted sections all the way down to the metal

    <Photobucket

    Photobucket



    Wirewheeled all the pitted sections down and then called it a day

    Photobucket
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nathanwhite View Post
    erm.... right.

    Well, I got the hundred dollar ones of trademe, ill try both of them when the bike is back together

    I got my trailer shock from same guy.Seems to work ok but its only on a trailer so prob not the best way to test them for performance.


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  12. #27
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    Wow! thats a very nifty little thing

    Does it change the handling much and/or do you have to take special considerations with it?
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  13. #28
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    I tried the putty epoxy again today. Same result funnily enough.

    It did work a lot better this time because a) I could apply it thiner b)I took my time sanding it down (who knew it could make things better? )

    But still it came off where I didnt want it too and still was a horrible grey colour that I would have had to cover up with a tacky chrome paint or something.

    Gonna give some clear jb weld a try. The shiny bare metal in the pits doesn't look too dissimilar to the chrome plating so clear should be good.
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

  14. #29
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    I'd drill that shock hole out to, say 8-10mm and then sleeve down the hole on the swing arm.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

  15. #30
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    After thinking things through very carefully -tui ad there- I wondered if I could get the top off the original shocks and stick them on the bottom of the new ones (or the top?)
    A bit of fiddling later I managed to get the trademe shocks apart too see how they work. Turns out the problem section and the spring holder-on-thing just screwed into the damper rod. Very nice.
    Onto the origional shocks and a bit more time spent fiddling and trying various things, then I finally managed to get them apart!

    and so on

    it took me, my dad and the, tie-a-million-cable-ties-on-while-at-full-preload method to get it off but its off.


    After a lengthy intelligent discussion about the various ways to machine the pieces to fit together, I realized that now that it was apart, why not clean it up and reuse it?
    SO I think that's what I'll do. It'll be easier then retrofitting other shocks to fit and the spring/damping rates will stay the same.



    Sorry no pics, I CBF'd going through the process of getting them online for only two photos. I'll stick them in the next update
    Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

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