Team GPR

**Bert** · 17th December 2014, 21:34

Originally Posted by Grumph

i have the advantage of you in that the FZR600 we raced in pre 89 - very successfully till Kev bloody sold it - had race kit rods fitted..
Big end and shank all same same as std but the small end was slightly meatier and it was bronze bushed. They looked as though they were factory shot peened too.

Without seeing a pic of the KTM rod, if it's broken just above the big end, I'd pick poor design as the cause. Probably insufficient meat blending the eye to the shank. Cleaning up surface blemishes and shot peening will definitely help here.

If you do eventually do a rod from scratch the best way - as done in ChCh anyway - is waterjet cut from sheet then CNC the bores and the sides profile. Finally go down front and back to create the H section. For a bolt up bigend, you'd machine the joint faces and dowel it together and machine it as an assembly.

Originally Posted by seymour14

I will make them, how hard can it be?

Can I come to the workshop when you do it??

Really want to see this project roll out.

I've posted this before but if you can handle the Italian it's an interesting series to watch.

**mr bucketracer** · 18th December 2014, 07:03

i do like the argo rods as it has bolts so can finsh the start of the neck nicey . dad was saying he would use p20 the next step better than 4340 . never heard of mcv plate so may look it up to see if you can get it here

**TALLIS** · 18th December 2014, 17:31

So have you ordered a std rod for a template?

**husaberg** · 18th December 2014, 18:20

Originally Posted by mr bucketracer

i do like the argo rods as it has bolts so can finsh the start of the neck nicey . dad was saying he would use p20 the next step better than 4340 . never heard of mcv plate so may look it up to see if you can get it here

Arrow rods are 4340 as well...

**Grumph** · 18th December 2014, 18:42

Originally Posted by husaberg

Arrow rods are 4340 as well...

You don't need anything better than 4340. Go further down the high strength route and you lose ductility and it can get brittle.

If you're going to use capscrews from underneath, don't let the threads break out onto the rod shoulder as they're immediate stress raisers. Been there with GSXR750 WN kit rods...still got pics of the wreckage.

**mr bucketracer** · 27th December 2014, 18:58

getting the 100 twin ready hopefully for tam , it running but a bit of work still needed , need to gear it for 3 gears as we know the gear box is not that great

**F5 Dave** · 27th December 2014, 19:58

Be great to see it again. Rvif I'm too fast maybe I could be convinced to ride it

**mr bucketracer** · 27th December 2014, 20:19

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Be great to see it again. Rvif I'm too fast maybe I could be convinced to ride it

you are to old . i'm going to smash you even if i have 21 ponys

i have nick on my side now

**TALLIS** · 27th December 2014, 21:25

I suppose I need to give Dave the options, I'll break either his clutch hand or his throttle hand... word of advice tho, I think Ull miss your throttle hand for other things too Dave.

**mr bucketracer** · 27th December 2014, 21:29

Originally Posted by TALLIS

I suppose I need to give Dave the options, I'll break either his clutch hand or his throttle hand... word of advice tho, I think Ull miss your throttle hand for other things too Dave.

lmao he will have a no stroke

everybody better come to be with the fun

**F5 Dave** · 28th December 2014, 09:56

Gee all I wanted was a ride of your bike, no need to get all Sopranos. :-)

**mr bucketracer** · 28th December 2014, 16:57

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Gee all I wanted was a ride of your bike, no need to get all Sopranos. :-)

ha ha just having fun, theads getting a bit boring of a late . dont know what to do about the water pump , looking at fitting the old one off the rev counter drive but dose not seem right