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Thread: FZR250 New bike and a few questions

  1. #1
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    26th August 2012 - 19:32
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    FZR250 New bike and a few questions

    Hi all,
    Just got myself a 1989 FZR250 (About 35 thou kms) off a friend of a friend, had been sitting for about a year and going quite cheap so I took it.

    Its running again and warranted, rego'd. However, it seems to flood/bog down and die at the lights and stops (can keep it going just if I give it throttle but it wont rev up), about half the time? So if you see someone pushing a fzr through light sets in Chch, thats me...

    Any ideas on what may be causing this, how to fix it?

    Due it to sitting for a while, I'm planning on doing an oil filter/oil change, look at spark plugs and air filter, should I just take it in somewhere to get the valves and carbs done too? Fork seals gave out on the first ride, trying to find some replacement ones now.

    Also, worth doing the coolant? And or anything I've missed?

    Thanks, any thoughts appreciated, let me know if this is in the right place too or if it should be moved to another section..

  2. #2
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    9th October 2003 - 11:00
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    In terms of the bogging, it will just be that the carbs have varnished, because he probably didn't drain them before parking it up. Get them cleaned and setup nicely. An ultrasonic clean would be best. Check the state of the carb rubbers and diaphragms (assuming they are CV carbs) and replace as necessary.

    As for other things tolook at:
    Brake fluid, replace wheel bearings and steering head bearings, lube swing arm bearings.

    Go through the wiring loom with a fine tooth comb, replace corroded connectors and clean the ones you don't replace, thoroughly. Pull the switch blocks apart and clean them out thoroughly.

    Lube throttle, choke, and clutch cables (you can buy a little tool to help).

    Replace the tyres, irrespective of wear, if it's been sitting for a while, the tyres will be past their best.

    Check chain and sprockets, replace as necessary.

    Valve clearance check.

    Pull the brake calipers apart and clean them properly and replace seals and pads.

    Don't half-arse the job. Get all the issues sorted right now.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  3. #3
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    26th August 2012 - 19:32
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    Cool, good to know

    Would a fuel system cleaner help in the interim before I take the carbs in somewhere? For the varnished carbs...

    Or, where would I get an ultrasonic clean done?
    Very much looking at doing things properly now yes.

    Any ideas on where best to get some of the things like valves done? (Don't have space or tools to take the bike apart too much for too long)

  4. #4
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    "full service" from competent bike personage.

  5. #5
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    Fuel system cleaners are snake oil, but it's your money .

    Best place for a full service is your local bike shop, and the Chirstchurchians would have the best idea, if we can get one of them to contribute.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  6. #6
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    25th October 2002 - 17:30
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Deuce View Post

    Best place for a full service is your local bike shop, and the Chirstchurchians would have the best idea, if we can get one of them to contribute.
    Duanes Bikes and Skis. Waterloo Rd., Hornby.

  7. #7
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    26th August 2012 - 19:32
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    Excelllent, just had a friend recommend them too.

    Just how much should I expect to pay/ rang up one place about my old bike (cb250) having a service and was told circa $700? Thought I'd give that one a miss myself, or is that what is expected?

  8. #8
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    25th January 2008 - 17:56
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    Thumbs up

    For all of the things that JD suggested and anything else they might consider necessary I don't think you'd get change out of that amount from any bike shop.
    Money well spent if they do a good job.
    Every day above ground is a good day!:

  9. #9
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    24th June 2004 - 17:27
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    If you are mechanically minded and have tools you can do it yourself... Otherwise be prepared to pay a LOT because there is 4 of everything and it takes time...

    Also check the fuel filter and the taps. ie is it delivering fuel? They are probably;y some kind of horrid vacuum operated thing that was never designed to last this long.

    In the interim. Drain the tank and remove the taps to check they aint clogged up with shit. Drain the float bowls (I think you can do that with the carbs in place) and refill the system with fresh fuel.

    Check that the rect/reg and ignition module have better than great connection to the chassis and that the engine mounts are no all corroded or it will never run properly. Don't even think about riding it unless the battery and charging is in good nick, you will be chasing phantoms forever....

    Oil and filters are a no brainer..

    Look - its a 250/4. Each pot is staggering 62.5cc and has a fist full of valves like fat gnomes dinner plates. The poor old rings have been squished in there for decades, the combustion chambers are full of semi burnt crud from unleaded fuels and its been thrashed mercilessly from the day it held air in its tyres. It has to suck open a gigantic CV carb slide with all that going on. Its a big ask... Its going to need to be in tip top shape for all this to happen... However they are fun bikes and well worth it if you like it ...

  10. #10
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    26th August 2012 - 19:32
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    Yeah, getting a price put out to do the carbs and new needles (from reading around I think these are the most likely suspect and should prob be done anyhow) as this is the bit I'm not so confident on myself.

    Anyone have any part numbers for the air filter, spark plugs, lead caps and fuel filter? Or know a place I can get them from?

    Also, there is a strong petrol smell coming from the bike, mostly from the right hand side, I suspect a fuel line somewhere or leaking carb maybe? Sound like the right track? Gonna guess its not normal at least...

    Thanks for the help so far though

  11. #11
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    If you have a strong smell of fuel, check if the carbs are dripping from the little nipples underneath, or around the edge of the float bowl (lower portion of the carb)
    It's not uncommon for float needles to get shitty when left sitting (yours should have tiny gauze filters just before the needle seat and rubber tips on the valve/needle itself) and they're cheap/easy enough to replace.
    Otherwise I'd suspect the float bowl gaskets.
    Whilst you're there you can set the float levels too...and clean everything, twice.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  12. #12
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    26th August 2012 - 19:32
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    Yeah, have ordered some new needles and seats, so will put those in when everything gets balanced etc. Ordered a new oil filter which will go in with new oil asap, fuel filter and spark plugs are next on the list to be ordered. Fork seals (part number anyone? Price?) will be a next weekend thing but it seems to be holding up ok so far, the right one is fine too.

    I put some carby cleaner stuff in the fuel and the bike seems to be running much better now (flooding/bogging a lot less), although I'm guessing a bit of a run (Over the port hills) would have something to do with that too, however, the fuel smell is still there, if now reduced. Any other parts of the carb that could/should be replaced that may be causing this, ie, any other rubber parts that will have dried up?

  13. #13
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    Before you try the expensive options ... try ...

    Fresh fuel.
    Fresh Plugs.
    Fresh Air filter.

    That is only after you flushed the carbs and Drained and cleaned out the tank.

    But I'm guessing plugs and air filter ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  14. #14
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    heck everything in the carbs very carefully (I use a magnifying glass) look for wear on the slides, sitcking slides, holes/splits in diaphragms, wear on the main jet needle/emulsion tube (can wear oval)
    Wear on the pilot screws (when wound in too hard they'll change the taper on the end of them) and check the o-rings on them
    The float valves probably have outer o-rings too
    Check you're not leaking past the chokes (the plungers can be pricks of things)
    Get some fuse wire and carefully clean out the air bleeds/air jets (on the airbox side of the carbs)
    Then lots of cleaner and compressed air

    As for fork seals, try pyramidparts.co.nz
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Before you try the expensive options ... try ...

    Fresh fuel.
    Fresh Plugs.
    Fresh Air filter.

    That is only after you flushed the carbs and Drained and cleaned out the tank.

    But I'm guessing plugs and air filter ...
    And make sure the new plugs are the right temp (an 8 or 9 should be sweet) and gapped perfectly.
    Little engines are fussy fuckers
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

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