FZR250 New bike and a few questions

[McFatty1000]

Ok,

Given whats been said, I'll try new plugs/filters/oil etc first and see how it goes for the while. I have the main needles and seats (Cheap through a friend) coming anyway and was going to replace the o-rings and diaphrams (unless they were actually ok) so they'll be going in at some point, just maybe at a more wallet friendly time.

Will running the bike possibly help with the fuel smell though or will that be full take carb apart and clean territory?

Also, pyramid parts was excellent, cheaper than ebay even. Just gotta wait for the parts now

[ducatilover]

Will running the bike possibly help with the fuel smell though or will that be full take carb apart and clean territory?

Also, pyramid parts was excellent, cheaper than ebay even. Just gotta wait for the parts now

Diaphragms are generally very pricey, usually looking at upwards of $70 each, depending if they're bonded to a metal or plastic slide
Finding why is smells of fuel would be my concern.
Start with the simple shit:
Plugs
Air intake rubbers etc
Choke off
Fresh gas blahde-blah
Fuel tap not leaking
Vacuum line to fuel tap have petrol in it? If so, rooted o-ring or diaphragm (it'd be running like shit though on #1 cyl if that's the case)
Carbs overflowing?

Some CV carbs would overflow up through the air jets/passages and in to the carb bore, or simply out of the air jets/passages and in to your airbox, so worth checking for moisture there

Worth checking that the bowl vent is not getting pressurised, this'll push fuel through the jets and cause it to run shit/cut out. Usually it'll be 4 pipes in to one that'll run over the top of the airbox (or in to the air intake if ram air)
So route that as the factory says.

Or light a smoke near it and wait for the flames to start, when they erupt out, you've found the problem

[James Deuce]

It's a Yamaha - it will be o-rings leaking.

[McFatty1000]

Yeah, hoping its just the o-rings...

Can more or less rule out the fuel tap (smell is on the wrong side), has new fuel, choke (Although need to see if thats working at all, not sure its doing an awful lot at the mo), and bike is running fine otherwise so I don't think its anything to do with fuel in the vacuum line, and a friend with his 91 fzr had a quick ride on mine and thought it was running ok too.

I'm going for an overflowing carb at this point over the bowl vent but I'll have a look at everything when I get a chance.

[FJRider]

Yeah, hoping its just the o-rings...

Can more or less rule out the fuel tap (smell is on the wrong side), has new fuel, choke (Although need to see if thats working at all, not sure its doing an awful lot at the mo), and bike is running fine otherwise so I don't think its anything to do with fuel in the vacuum line, and a friend with his 91 fzr had a quick ride on mine and thought it was running ok too.

I'm going for an overflowing carb at this point over the bowl vent but I'll have a look at everything when I get a chance.

Check underneath the fuel tank (take it off) for pin-hole leaks in the tank. The petrol seeps rather than leaks. It will be easily seen as a dark damp area on the surface. It often occurs on the seam welds or bottom corners.
Check also leaks in the fuel lines/connections and vacuum line is connected in the right place and fuel is not leaking (from the tap) via it.

[McFatty1000]

Ok, slight update - the fuel is leaking out the carbs themselves, now an actual drip after riding (Now that I've been out on it a little more and things are a bit more apparent) - coming from just above the drain valves (and yes, the screws are in tight so its not that simple a fix) so I'm thinking that the o-rings and maybe the gaskets have gone, not that unexpected due to the age/time spent sitting there. I took some photos but they look rubbish, I can post them if people want a better idea of what I'm talking about.

So the question is, how much should I expect those to cost? Yamaha said about $30 per gasket ~ $120 for all four. Is this reasonable or should I be asking elsewhere?

Also, been quoted about 4-5 hours for taking the carbs apart, replacing parts, clean, put back together, balance and valve clearances. Is this reasonable? All the other shops I've called have been more coy on how long it was likely to take. Note that I really don't have the expertise to do this part myself and I do want the bike to go afterwards..

Any thoughts appreciated.

[McFatty1000]

Also, the bike is running quite well now that I've put a carb/injector cleaner through it, its now only stalling slightly when the brakes are put in too hard and gravity is starving the engine of fuel (Angle of engine apparently and a characteristic of fizzers?) and just myself getting used to taking off smoothly with a small inline 4 cyl bike.

Done to date:
Front forks
Brakes bled right through, pads checked
Exup valve engaged and now working
Exhaust headers media blasted and painted (were horrible with age)
Throttle has been lubed and now snaps back when released.
Spark plugs have been ordered and being shipped
Oil and filter is on its way and waiting for fine day with a few hours spare
Fuel filter replacement being shipped
Chain has been cleaned and given a good amount of oil, tension adjusted

Thats about it for now...

[James Deuce]

Good work! Up your idle a bit to avoid the stall.

[ducatilover]

$120 is reasonable from a shop for float bowl gaskets.
It could have poo needle/seats, or it could just be dripping from the petrol sloshing around in the bowls
If you can't do the work yourself, or are unsure, pay them.
If you're keen to learn the basics, start with a twin or single cylinder

[Fast Eddie]

don't up your idle lol.. thats just one of those bandaid fixes.

if it doesn't idle properly you need to give the carbs love. get any worn seals gaskets replaced and then have it set up properly, air/fuel jetting and mixture.

yip 5 hours would probably be right for all you have mentioned. removal of carbs, strip, clean, replace parts, reassemble, balance/sync/setup and checking valve clearances on engine. reassembly/run/test ride.

it is quad carb after all. few hours involved with them.

You could try it yourself but yea if you're not keen its money well spent.

[McFatty1000]

Yeah, it idles well once warm, starting it is a bit hard at the moment - I'm hoping new sparks will aid with this at least.
Trying to get new needles and seats, just chasing up a friend who was getting them in at cost for me. I'll get these put in at the same time as everything else.

Good to know about the price being decent, I'm inclined to go with them as they've been the best to talk to so far

I started out on a single cylinder and did some of the smaller work pieces on that, I just never needed to take the carbs apart as it was quite well maintained by the previous owner. Would love to help out with someone who is doing their own bike carbs at some point, even just to know whats involved in reality. The fact that its a quad carb kinda pushes me a bit more to get it done properly.

Thanks for the replies, been a huge help in getting things moving. Planning on going on a road trip around xmas and not leaking petrol is kinda beneficial for that

[James Deuce]

don't up your idle lol.. thats just one of those bandaid fixes.

if it doesn't idle properly you need to give the carbs love. get any worn seals gaskets replaced and then have it set up properly, air/fuel jetting and mixture.

yip 5 hours would probably be right for all you have mentioned. removal of carbs, strip, clean, replace parts, reassemble, balance/sync/setup and checking valve clearances on engine. reassembly/run/test ride.

it is quad carb after all. few hours involved with them.

You could try it yourself but yea if you're not keen its money well spent.

Yes, it is a band-aid - Mr mcfatty has indicated a bugetary constraint in previous posts, however if you can convince him spend the readies (I couldn't) then well done. I have seen people with little bike experience set their idle at ridiculously low levels before though so it is worth considering whether or not it is set correctly in the first place, yeah?

[ducatilover]

I might have three good needle/seats at home, but I can't check for another week or two at the moment, I'll let you know if I do.
Might have four good bowls with good gaskets too.

It may be worth pulling the bowls off, checking the gaskets, clean everything and re-assemble and be careful doing the screws up (everything I have has cap heafed screws in, because I'm pedantic) as they with shit out very easily and I wouldn't be overly keen on using an impact driver on them

[McFatty1000]

I might have three good needle/seats at home, but I can't check for another week or two at the moment, I'll let you know if I do.
Might have four good bowls with good gaskets too.

It may be worth pulling the bowls off, checking the gaskets, clean everything and re-assemble and be careful doing the screws up (everything I have has cap heafed screws in, because I'm pedantic) as they with shit out very easily and I wouldn't be overly keen on using an impact driver on them

That would be awesome if you did - very keen on anything that would help/that you can send this way.

As for James Deuce - I'll make sure the idle is set right too, could very well be that its too low, it strongly gives this impression on warm up at the very least

[McFatty1000]

Ok, have sourced some new needles and seats so thanks for the offer of those but I should be ok there.
took the front sprocket cover off today to check the teeth, all good there but must have cleaned out about a good 200g of old grease and road grime, gave it a bit of clean out, hoping that'll help with keeping the chain from picking up old dirt. Looks better at the very least..