RG - Extensive clean

[Arronduke]

I am loving having parts... better they are genuine Suzuki parts. They just feel better and I know that they are right for the job.
Carbs are all done, new O-rings, filters, seals and Rick lance bits..

Yes the new LG3T float valves, wow what engineering. I wish I was this talented. But we cant be good at everything, beer I can do that!
Instead of the needle with rubber seal we have a ball bearing and a plastic ball. Make sure the float height is 18mm without the gasket.



Two were out, add the 240 mains jets and that the RL kit installed.

One thing that was a fuck up, I sent all the steel bits to be plated. All good until it was time to assemble. The choke and air screw spring length is different.
Now that pissed me off, there was 1mm difference, why?

I was going to just put the springs in but there must have been a reason why, and I hate that. Opinion one was order a spring of each so i can measure, nearly did but then I remembered I have spares and problem solved.

Choke spring is 8.4mm
Air needle is 9.3mm

Why he difference fuck knows but my thought is there must be a reason so I must respect that!

job done.


Carbs done!

[Arronduke]

forgot to add.. spares are a wonderful thing.

[Arronduke]

Shit, the forks have to come out. again. The fork set up I purchased had simple aluminium plates and gasket paper and gasket goo to seal off the now unused fork dampening thingy. Yes I could just throw them in the bin but wanting to make the bike look original with purposeful modification they had to stay.

When I got the fork setup they leaked at this point, so being a good solder I removed these dam forks and redid them with gasket sealant and new gasket purposely made. Add fork oil 20W , yep 20wat as recommended by Rick L and the f#cking thing still leak... Not happy.

So another $100 USD I have these, the proper McCoy! Asshole things will not leak now, and no gasket gooy shit or paper to be seen.!


Now the job will be done properly...

I'm building components and then putting them in bags ready for the big assembly.
First off was the water pump assembly.

A couple of points worth stating.
1) how to install the water pump mechanical seal, and yes the blue stuff is the sealant.. Suzuki bond 1207B.. the old version did not have this.
2) Make sure you press this in squarely, I used a vice and a socket of which there are multiple sizes in each socket set perfect for the job.
3) The manual says, make sure the oil seal goes in the right way but fails to tell or show which way the dam thing should be installed.
4) Make sure you grease / lubricate the oil seal lips, like you would a good pussy be for installing the rod!


Piece of wood and the back and front and slowly tighten the vice, water pump mechanical seal installed, square!

[Arronduke]

Ah, just like that dam manual, I did not show which way that dam oil seal in the water pump MUST go, fuck this up and its all bad.

Think of an the outside engine oil seal, same here, which side is the oil on?


Yep insert oil seal this way like any other oil seal to keep the oil in the gearbox.
Bearing goes on top of this.

[Arronduke]

Here is an interesting point I did not know.. there is a threaded hole on the bottom right picture of the impala housing which should be removed periodically to make sure the water seal, oil seal are working as they should.
Remove this bolt and if water comes out, the water seal is leaking and if oil comes out the oil seal is leaking. Who the fuck knew that! Shows what a little reading does.

Obviously no bolt in it now but you get the point, I hope.


yep that little hole

[Arronduke]

Oh and another seal not show easily which way it goes.\\

eaiher turn it over or tell it to turn over, depends on who's boss.

get these few thing right and there will not be a leak, unlike that twat close to you at night, which can have flaps the size of banana skins and still leak

[Arronduke]

And to finish up tonights edition, all donations appreciated. I have stated on the gearbox.
First off install bearings.

They are a interference fit, so do I get out a big hammer and 5 beers? Sounds reasonable. actually a good idea?
No put the bearings in the freezer, drink 5 beers, while waiting a couple of hours, in their plastic bags obviously. Then heat the housing with a heat gun until warm over a 10min period letting the temp equalise.
The bearing will just drop in, magic.

Bearing shrinks, housing expands and bingo no issue.
Not a hammer in sight.

[Drew]

So, how did ya figure out which way was correct for the seals?

[Arronduke]

Drew think of the crank drive shaft engine seal where you chain goes, or any seal the you can see on the outside of the engine.
You all ways see the flat side, the lip side is inside.

The water pump area is design to keep oil in one side and water out the other side, so based on the fact we need to keep oil in, the lip side is oil side.
So basically all ways have the lip side oil side.

[Drew]

Ah, so they're not some mongrel thing where it's not obvious.

[pritch]

A friend of mine worked in engine reconditioning and he once told me that most of the restoration jobs on classic/vintage cars and bikes that he saw were done on the cheap rather than done right. It's a pity he's not here to see what you're doing.

[Arronduke]

A friend of mine worked in engine reconditioning and he once told me that most of the restoration jobs on classic/vintage cars and bikes that he saw were done on the cheap rather than done right. It's a pity he's not here to see what you're doing.

Thanks appreciate the comment.

[Arronduke]

With all rebuilds its two steps forward and three back, all the best planning and lack of planning happens.

As I started to rebuild the gear box... well fuck me the gear did not fit, for 5min I thought all my carful planning was shit. What have I done wrong? then it dawned on my something is not right. Drink beer and sulk.
Yep the bronze bush is missing. Shit gear has only being sitting in my parts box for a couple of years... Contacted Moore Performance Engineering and sent the gear back to the UK to have the bronze bush fitted. yes could have done it in NZ but I wanted it done by the manufacture. Don't need a mind fuck if something goes bad and I need to have THAT conversation.
Its now on it way back to NZ.



Next was the water pump reassemble, started to fit the engine bolts. I thought I would not get anal and just use them as is. how they came off. Nope. They looked terrible, my mind raced, beer did not help and the decision was made to degrease them in my ultrasonic cleaner, wire brush them with the drill press and then send them to Napier for replanting, black. dam hard to find anyone to plate black now. Oh and by the way, If you send crap, you get crap. Send clean stuff and it comes back like new.



Ohhhh now for the real piss off. The fork blanks for the anti dive came with aluminium plates and a gasket, they leaked. So I disassembled the whole front end and made new gaskets. Proper ones, I thought.
Bolted everything back up, lock tight etc and bugger me they leak again. Not like last time, just a real small weep, like an abused wife that should have cooked eggs. I degreased, new gasket and fitted the anti dive units and waited, run my finger under them and, yep there was a smear of oil. Just a smear, ask you wife if a smear means anything and i guess is you will not get eggs. We know how to fix, use proper stuff.

[Askor]

moar updatezzzzz

[Arronduke]

Between trying to rewire parts of my Katana and kids cricket, which by the way takes so much time that had I known the boys would have been playing softball or tennis... and waiting for bits that I have not ordered yet cause I am too lazy there has been slow progress.

Got the engine bolts re plated the same colour as the originals. I tell you what it is harder than you think to find a place that does black, or black with a green ting as used on 80’s Jap bikes.



Then I lost that F#cken washer and could not be bothered ordering it!
Yep number 6.



Throw in some bearings... put them in the freezer for a few hours (open beer) and heat the engine cases with a heat gun and your good to go, just throw the bearings in and your done. Open more beer.




All the good things to use when assembling an engine... beer, big steel hammer and a crowbar. Yea yea I have hidden the steel hammer. But Loctite where needed and assembly paste on all moving parts. Grease on the seals and soft hammer ONLY when something does not fit.. always have minimum of 6 beers before using the soft hammer.