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Thread: The Bucket Foundry

  1. #1966
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    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    We both are. I had a hunch you were up to something like this after our 'comma-transfers' discussion went quiet and it dawned on me when I saw your castings in October. But do you think your cylinder will be able to move up and down quickly enough to make a throttle redundant? It might turn out to be fly-off by wire .
    You don't know the half of it Frits, all this secret stuff going on in our secret development lab located at our secret location
    Yah Right I think all my cards are on the (not so secret) table.
    Never the less, I'm very keen to see what happens, thanks to your input for guiding us in the right, well a direction, remember I did say I was going to bastardise your concept.

  2. #1967
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    There is a better way...


  3. #1968
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    I'm very keen to see what happens, thanks to your input for guiding us in the right, well a direction
    remember I did say I was going to bastardise your concept.
    A direction? Why do I get the impression that you're always working in at least five different directions at the same time: direct EFI, variable rotary timing, ride by wire, opposed pistons, sleeve valve, FOS scavenging, variable cylinder timing, hypocycloid crank, HCCI, singles, twins, triples, did I miss anything? Oh yes, autogiros.
    Bastardize away at your heart's desire Neil, I love it! .

  4. #1969
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    10th February 2005 - 20:25
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    There is a better way...
    The road to old age is littered with better ways, often with dead ends, but the Bucketeers etc. explore them anyway - stuff the straight easy road I say!
    Strokers Galore!

  5. #1970
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    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    Do you think your cylinder will be able to move up and down quickly enough to make a throttle redundant? It might turn out to be fly-off by wire .
    Thats's why I decided on a rack and pinion, straight to a push pull cable. Remember there are no combustion loads on this component, just a bit of "O" ring friction.

  6. #1971
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    10th February 2005 - 20:25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Thats's why I decided on a rack and pinion, straight to a push pull cable. Remember there are no combustion loads on this component, just a bit of "O" ring friction.
    I didn't know about the cable either, I just assumed it would be a stepper, guess you guys will soon find out one way or the other! As they say, talk is cheap, actions are something else!
    Not many actions coming from my place at the moment!
    Strokers Galore!

  7. #1972
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    27th June 2011 - 10:21
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    idea for making sand cores for casting.
    3d printing the shell! with a super cheap desktop 3d printer

    (those boosters are meant to go around the bolts)
    the outer shape of the cylinder can be 3d printed aswell in two halves.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #1973
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    27th January 2015 - 05:10
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    You might want to check page 110 Nasone, there Polinzei showed some excellent results of printed core boxes .

    Further back I showed some pictures of a cylinder which I have cast using the "lost PLA" method.
    This method worked like a charm as well and it is also affordable with a desktop 3d printer.

  9. #1974
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    27th June 2011 - 10:21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peiter View Post
    You might want to check page 110 Nasone, there Polinzei showed some excellent results of printed core boxes .

    Further back I showed some pictures of a cylinder which I have cast using the "lost PLA" method.
    This method worked like a charm as well and it is also affordable with a desktop 3d printer.
    really? how could i miss that?
    thanks!

  10. #1975
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    27th June 2011 - 10:21
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    seen that, IMPRESSIVE result, my compliments!
    Can you go a bit in the detail about the procedure, after the print? please please!

    do you submerge the print with a mix of plaster of paris and sand, and then melt the pla away?
    how does the investment fill the voids in the model?
    I'd be glad to know!

    EDIT: nevermind, i find your post!

  11. #1976
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    20th October 2014 - 14:12
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    Well, Neil we did it! Air cooled barrel cast!
    we had some small issues with the tips of the largest fins filling, but the bore and ports and the rest of the fins came out great. For these i will add the missing fin tips with the TIG and be on my way.
    I have some ideas on how to improve the fill, to the fin tips we were SO close!
    Two cylinders have survived heat treating to T6 and will be machined and nikasil plated soon!

    full story here
    http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showth...cylinder/page7















    and heat treating...


  12. #1977
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    4th June 2013 - 10:03
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    Applause for jhenise, well done!

  13. #1978
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    11th November 2011 - 12:15
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    Great work Jhenise.

    Did you pour all cylinders at once from the one crucible and did the last one get worse fin filling?
    I wonder if they are just cold shuts or air couldn't escape.

    Maybe one of the below thoughts may help:
    If cold shuts:
    Hotter melt temp
    Remove filter for faster fill

    If trapped air:
    Slightly tilt moulds up on angle so air can run along fins to the fore aft web and scratch an air vent up mould split line to let it out
    Courser sand or less resin
    Drill down side of mould alongside fins and then drill through tips of fins to let air out. fettle off pips after

    Hopefully one of these may help.

    Brett

  14. #1979
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    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett S View Post
    Great work Jhenise.

    Did you pour all cylinders at once from the one crucible and did the last one get worse fin filling?
    I wonder if they are just cold shuts or air couldn't escape.

    Maybe one of the below thoughts may help:
    If cold shuts:
    Hotter melt temp
    Remove filter for faster fill

    If trapped air:
    Slightly tilt moulds up on angle so air can run along fins to the fore aft web and scratch an air vent up mould split line to let it out
    Courser sand or less resin
    Drill down side of mould alongside fins and then drill through tips of fins to let air out. fettle off pips after

    Hopefully one of these may help.

    Brett
    Real nice job! You should be well proud, no stopping you now

    I use just a welding wire to poke down to the pattern before the sand is hardened, also these little holes are good for CO2 infusion.

    Tiny little holes to let the mould gas escape.

    Seeing those air cooled cylinders encourages me to have a go at my F9 cylinder, I can't say it enough, REAL nice job.

  15. #1980
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    Jeff, really nice work. I'm sure the fin filling issues will be easily resolvable.
    Hope the performance matches the level of excellent detail you have put in all through the design and manufacture.
    Job satisfaction 100%

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