The Bucket Foundry

[monkeyfumi]

All in french, but can be translated with google
http://www.fonderie-piwi.fr/post/201...d%C3%A9tonnant

[peewee]

Ready to pour, just need another fine day for the out doors foundry.

excellent work. one question about the location where your aux exh tunells tie into the main duct. it appears fairly high near the roof of the main duct. is there a general rule on this subject ? i added some aux ports to my cylinder and tied them into the main at about the middle (half way between the floor and roof), but if they would be better off up higher then ill plan on doing that next time

[Flettner]

excellent work. one question about the location where your aux exh tunells tie into the main duct. it appears fairly high near the roof of the main duct. is there a general rule on this subject ? i added some aux ports to my cylinder and tied them into the main at about the middle (half way between the floor and roof), but if they would be better off up higher then ill plan on doing that next time

No, you are right, mid way down is where they should be. I designed these cylinders a while ago, if I where to re make the patterns again I would put them in the middle and have a more downward angle stright from the port. For what these cylinders are going to be used for it won't be a problem.

Cast two more cylinders today, these are much cleaner than last weeks cylinders.

[WilDun]

Cast two more cylinders today, these are much cleaner than last weeks cylinders.

What made the difference? change of technique?

[Flettner]

What made the difference? change of technique?

Better sand packing and the use of thermal sleeves on the risers. Appear to have four useful cylinders.

[peewee]

No, you are right, mid way down is where they should be. I designed these cylinders a while ago, if I where to re make the patterns again I would put them in the middle and have a more downward angle stright from the port. For what these cylinders are going to be used for it won't be a problem.

Cast two more cylinders today, these are much cleaner than last weeks cylinders.

well i seen a few race cylinders and the aux never tied into the main duct up so high. figured i better ask in case you know a secret the rest of us dont . nice work none the less. when do you figure it will be running ?

[Yow Ling]

well i seen a few race cylinders and the aux never tied into the main duct up so high. figured i better ask in case you know a secret the rest of us dont . nice work none the less. when do you figure it will be running ?

Hi Peewee, I think the cylinders he cast are used in the engine in this video

[lodgernz]

Please forgive me if I'm asking this question on the wrong thread.

I want to make a reed block stuffer. I guess you all know what that looks like, but I want to extend it out a bit to relocate the carb.
My idea is to make a wooden former with a thin rectangle with a V-shaped cross section at the end inside the reed block, and a circle at the outer end.
In between I'd ease the former from the rectangular to the round. My plan is to sit this in place in the reed block and pour some kind of molding compound around it to produce the stuffer.

My question is: What would be a good material to use as the molding compound?
Of course this could also be the material of the stuffer, but my application might require an aluminium casting rather than a plastic stuffer.
Several people have suggested the epxoy resin used with fibreglass work but I wonder if this would be petrol and oil resistant, and also if it could be used as the basis for a casting.

Any recommendations?

[F5 Dave]

I have some of this material if you Kneedit.

Ahh, I'm so funny, you can buy your own at the supermarket.


Its survived in the MB for quite some time. You could press a wing into it.

My manifold is a 10mm piece of ally with a spigot rubber clamp bolted on. If you had the room underneath (which I don't) a shorter Frits style plate could be made using the O-ring idea.

[lodgernz]

I have some of this material if you Kneedit.
Ahh, I'm so funny, you can buy your own at the supermarket.
Its survived in the MB for quite some time. You could press a wing into it.
My manifold is a 10mm piece of ally with a spigot rubber clamp bolted on. If you had the room underneath (which I don't) a shorter Frits style plate could be made using the O-ring idea.

Thanks Dave. I have some Kneadit, but I'm looking for something that will run into spaces by gravity, rather than having to be pressed in.
Might have to use that anyway, but I'm hoping for something more liquid.

[Bert]

Thanks Dave. I have some Kneadit, but I'm looking for something that will run into spaces by gravity, rather than having to be pressed in.
Might have to use that anyway, but I'm hoping for something more liquid.

Try JB weld then coat with a petrol resistant paint.

[husaberg]

Thanks Dave. I have some Kneadit, but I'm looking for something that will run into spaces by gravity, rather than having to be pressed in.
Might have to use that anyway, but I'm hoping for something more liquid.

One of the common fibreglass resins are petrol resistant can't remember if its polyester or epoxy though.
To stop it sticking you can use glad wrap (panelbeater told me that, never tried it myself)

[lodgernz]

Thanks guys. Will follow your suggestions.

[Ocean1]

One of the common fibreglass resins are petrol resistant can't remember if its polyester or epoxy though.
To stop it sticking you can use glad wrap (panelbeater told me that, never tried it myself)

Vinlyester resins. And "resistant" is the word, rather than "proof". See if you can find one low on styrene.

Also, less "resistant" where alcohol is involved.

[husaberg]

Vinlyester resins. And "resistant" is the word, rather than "proof". See if you can find one low on styrene.

Also, less "resistant" where alcohol is involved.

so then what are the glass fibre petrol tanks made from unless they were ducati they hold most of their petrol