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Thread: BMW K100RS Project

  1. #136
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    Looking good
    Brake lines arrived and on they go. One angle is incorrect so will see if anyone local has an end fitting.

    Wifey decided to buy me a xmas present. Wont be able to fit it until then though
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  2. #137
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Got it going today. Running on my car battery.
    Radiator has a leak.
    Found another cheap enough though.
    Assuming has started leaking while parked as the remaining water in the system was half way up the radiator and was a nice green antifreeze colour.
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  3. #138
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Rewired the bike with new start inhibit unit and cables for new speedo assy.
    Bike now starts in neutral or with clutch pulled in.
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  4. #139
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    14th October 2003 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    start inhibit unit
    ????? wassat?
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  5. #140
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddieb View Post
    ????? wassat?

    A sort of remote wife, declines permission to ride if she doesn't happen to be handy to do it herself.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  6. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddieb View Post
    ????? wassat?
    The original bmw instrument cluster does some additional functions with the bike. One of the functions is linked with the gear position switch. It also allows the bike to only start in neutral or with the clutch pulled in. The clutch switch function was already working but I would rather have both going again.
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  7. #142
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    My lithium battery turned up and headlamp bulb so in they went.
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  8. #143
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    Tail light and replacement radiator arrived.
    In they go.
    Im very happy about the tail light look.
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  9. #144
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Muffler day.
    Has anyone shortened a muffler before?
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  10. #145
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    14th July 2006 - 21:39
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    Carefully drill out the rivets - punch thru the middle first to ensure any rivet 'sticks' are pushed clear. Punch through the inner part of the rivet and carefully remove the end - may need a good wiggle or careful tap tap tap. When repacking my Yoshis it took time to get the engs off.

    Once the end is off pull out the guts - shorten the body the amount you desire. Presuming it has a single perferated core shorten this the same amount (or less if erring on the side of caution and you can trim it back as required when test fitting).

    Refit the end drill through the holds in the cap thru the body the correct size for your rivets - clear out the swarf, tidy up the hole if needed. Repack the core and fit to the body and reasemble the end/rivet.

    Stand back and admire.

    The bodies are relatively thin - take care when working with them to avoid denting. A cutting wheel in a angle grinder will make good work of shortening it, again take care. Ditto when re riveting. The muffler packing should be tight - pack it in.

    If the muffler core is rooted and 50 mm in diameter PM me as I've a spiffy stainless one floating around waiting for a project but worthy of donating to yours as I'm enjoying the build.

  11. #146
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    19th January 2006 - 19:13
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    Looking good fella,do as AL says and you should have no problems though ive a couple of shortened 2 bros cans in the shed doing nothing if you need one.
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    Be the person your dog thinks you are...

  12. #147
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    Carefully drill .............................. I'm enjoying the build.
    Thanks Allan. I have noticed the rivets are aluminium and not stainless(both ends). Is there a reason for this?
    Im not sure if this is due to repack or standard. I have a grinder and stainless rivet gun as we use them at work but im curious about what type rivets are best to use. Ally would cause less wear on the muffler and let the rivets wear out instead I guess.
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  13. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98tls View Post
    Looking good fella,do as AL says and you should have no problems though ive a couple of shortened 2 bros cans in the shed doing nothing if you need one.
    I should have pm you before buying a pipe. You must have one for every occasion now.
    The good thing about this one is it has a baffle insert as I always expect the tuff inspection on anything not standard for a new plate.
    Might be I am wary after doing the oddball trailer thing twice.
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  14. #149
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    19th January 2006 - 19:13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    I should have pm you before buying a pipe. You must have one for every occasion now.
    The good thing about this one is it has a baffle insert as I always expect the tuff inspection on anything not standard for a new plate.
    Might be I am wary after doing the oddball trailer thing twice.
    To get the cans length spot on real easy to call into a friendly muffler shop and get em to do it on there drop saw takes all of 2 minutes.
    Be the person your dog thinks you are...

  15. #150
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    14th July 2006 - 21:39
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    I had a Yoshi factory repack kit that came with stainless rivets - F me they were hard to do I had to buy a better tool for the job. Alloy rivets are shit loads easier to do. Probably don't last as long, but I suspect by the time they fail it will be due to a repack.

    Loads of videos on Youtube for repacking - I followed this - if the muffler is used it will not go as easily as the video as they use a new pipe! Cheats!!!! Allow time and beers ..... beers helped. And swearing - I had lots of that.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPalKe6nYIk

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