Metzeler tyres: Worth the money?

[*Boot's*]

I make no claim to any riding or passenger riding before i found my yamaha and the people i fictitiously talked about actually don't exist…. just like the brand yameha

[GrayWolf]

We went over the Kaimais in a group ride at well over 92kmph and me being pillion it was serious effort to hold on to the petrol tank….. needless to say those arm muscles didn't function properly for a week afterwards. In saying this we never slipped or broke tread on the road once. I admit I had a well seasoned rider pushing us through to the pub, and even harder on the way back. The zuki 1000 and its rider have me convinced to pay extra for horse shoes…. They have a price tag for a reason, I would rather the performance was put to good use as insurance, and these guys know what they are doing. I'm happy saving up to be able to ride rather than buying cheap and sliding off the road.

What do you think? Have you tried other bikes with other brand tires to see how you think they feel? or over your rides during the year selected half worn cheap tires until you understand what brand feels right to you? just a few ideas. (You don't have to buy brand new until you decide exactly what you want, similar to hel,et selection. Borrow a couple from wreckers at $20 a pop… providing theres no blood inside the helmet, take it for a rip up the road past 93 km/h to see how noisy it is…. too noisy? don't buy……. tires the same thing, couple of mm tread enough for a wof, take them for a spin…… next…… next…….. you get the drift?

SO:
you were pillion on a bike that was going so 'hard out' it made you arms ache THAT badly?? And consider this 'good riding'.... Having a Pillion, means, someone ELSE's life in your hands, and you ride like a fuckwit???

You already 'know' you'll need XYZ type of tyre because you'll need it as 'you'll be riding to the N'th degree of adhesion' like you 'mate' did?? Do I need to say what is wrong with that statement???

You are going to borrow a crash helmet from a wreckers to test the brand for noise? an UNKNOWN, possibly been down the road helmet?

Another bloody statistic about to happen!!!!![IMG][/IMG]

[mossy1200]

You will get good mileage out of them. Got 13k out of a rear on a busa which included a few burnouts

You taken the busa off the trailer yet?

[*Boot's*]

SO:
you were pillion on a bike that was going so 'hard out' it made you arms ache THAT badly?? And consider this 'good riding'.... Having a Pillion, means, someone ELSE's life in your hands, and you ride like a fuckwit???

You already 'know' you'll need XYZ type of tyre because you'll need it as 'you'll be riding to the N'th degree of adhesion' like you 'mate' did?? Do I need to say what is wrong with that statement???

You are going to borrow a crash helmet from a wreckers to test the brand for noise? an UNKNOWN, possibly been down the road helmet?

Another bloody statistic about to happen!!!!![IMG][/IMG]

(I wrote heaps more but kiwi biker timed out before i could publish it)

Just saying… preventions better than cure, we never went over 100kmph, the ride was a hard ride, the guy knew what he was doing, the bike was big enough and the tires were good….


Why not try old helmets and old designs ? a squirt up the road for a couple of metros at 100kmph isn't going to kill you any different from a 2 hour long ride and "nearly home".

What do you use? what brand chain? what brand tires? oil? WHY do you use them?

Why not pay extra for good tires especially if your learning? when you need the most insurance possible!!!???

sorry… but i tend to make sense to me.

[Mike.Gayner]

SO:
you were pillion on a bike that was going so 'hard out' it made you arms ache THAT badly?? And consider this 'good riding'.... Having a Pillion, means, someone ELSE's life in your hands, and you ride like a fuckwit???

You already 'know' you'll need XYZ type of tyre because you'll need it as 'you'll be riding to the N'th degree of adhesion' like you 'mate' did?? Do I need to say what is wrong with that statement???

You are going to borrow a crash helmet from a wreckers to test the brand for noise? an UNKNOWN, possibly been down the road helmet?

Another bloody statistic about to happen!!!!![IMG][/IMG]

Been a while since I've seen such intense fuck-wittery on KB. Fuck off and let others live the way they wish, please. Wanker.

[GrayWolf]

Been a while since I've seen such intense fuck-wittery on KB. Fuck off and let others live the way they wish, please. Wanker.

Yup, follow your own advice then..... have a nice day!

[jasonu]

Yep I'll match and raise Baron's two cents.

We run the 880's on our 400kg cruiser pushing 180NM of torques through the rear end and always riding two up. To say the least, we give these tyres a hiding is a bit of an understatement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't know a 400kg motorbike even existed...

[haydes55]

I didn't know a 400kg motorbike even existed...

It's called a mini, when it goes around a corner fast enough to get on 2 wheels.

[ruaphu]

I didn't know a 400kg motorbike even existed...

Yep theres a few about, goldwings, dresser Harley's and alike, two wheeled cars really. hence they can be hard on tyres. Our fully kitted out cruiser eats them every 5k at $450-500 a pop for a rear and $300-350 for a front, all part of the fun eh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GrayWolf]

(I wrote heaps more but kiwi biker timed out before i could publish it)

Just saying… preventions better than cure, we never went over 100kmph, the ride was a hard ride, the guy knew what he was doing, the bike was big enough and the tires were good….
if the ride was so 'hard' you couldnt use your arms properly for days due to them being aching/sore? To me simply indicated going too fast with a pillion. There are plenty of roads, corners where 80 km's would be 'going for it'.... So not going over '100' doesnt mean it was safe. I can and do ride 'hard' sometimes, SOLO! not with someone's else's life in my hands

Why not try old helmets and old designs ? a squirt up the road for a couple of metros at 100kmph isn't going to kill you any different from a 2 hour long ride and "nearly home".
Fair question,
a couple of km's or so at 100 (you wouldnt know if a lid was noisy in just a few meters) is still distance enough for 'something' to happen. I came off at 25kph about 20 months ago, only a small area of very light 'surface scratches' on a 3 month old $500 helmet, it had the strap cut off and a hammer put through the shell. What if it had found its way to a wreckers and 'you/someone' had an accident and the lid had unseen/unknown hairline cracking or structural weakness?

What do you use? what brand chain? what brand tires? oil? WHY do you use them?
My helmet choice has come down to experience of what fits me, a used lid may not reflect accurately the fit it will have for you from new. You are better to try several new ones on at a shop, head shape, head size (crown to chin) shell sizing, all are factors that will affect the choice. The best 'start' I would suggest is the SHARP test site, there are a lot of 'budget' helmets that score high, and there ARE several modular (flip fronts) Nolan and Carberg to name 2 that have a 100% or very high rating for staying closed in testing.

Oil? just good quality, no specific brand.

Tyres? The ones that suit the bike as well as my requirements. The bike is heavy, produces huge torque figures, and being a low revving V twin the 'power pulses' are hard on tyres. It will destroy rear tyres in less that 3000km when ridden hard if the wrong compound type is used.

Why not pay extra for good tires especially if your learning? when you need the most insurance possible!!!???

If you are learning? Then you are not likely to be needing 'maximum sports grip' to explore the limits of handling, surely?
Good 'sensible'?? tyres like 'dual compound' touring tyres will provide more than sufficient grip for a learner (they provide plenty enough for spirited riding). Will also provide good mileage with the harder center strip. In fact if you research a little deeper, sports tyres can have reduced grip, compared to a less 'sporting tyre' in general riding, as they need to be 'at temperature' to be really effective. (Hence why race riders 'weave' to heat them up, to take the extreme example).

sorry… but i tend to make sense to me.

Brand of chain? Again the bike dictates, more than preference, either the top level DID or RK (gold) chain, pointless having anything 'lesser' as the torque/power pulses will simply destroy a 'budget' chain.

So I guess what I am saying, you can either make 'emotional' or 'emotive' decisions, or 'logical ones' that are often less 'flamboyant' or 'street cred'.

[mossy1200]

Been a while since I've seen such intense fuck-wittery on KB. Fuck off and let others live the way they wish, please. Wanker.

As long as they don't cause a ACC user pays insurance policy increase.

Be boring if we all had Honda hugs and kisses.

[imdying]

Been a while since I've seen such intense fuck-wittery on KB. Fuck off and let others live the way they wish, please. Wanker.

Pfft you've only been here five minutes.... cunts like you come and go

[*Boot's*]

Brand of chain? Again the bike dictates, more than preference, either the top level DID or RK (gold) chain, pointless having anything 'lesser' as the torque/power pulses will simply destroy a 'budget' chain.

So I guess what I am saying, you can either make 'emotional' or 'emotive' decisions, or 'logical ones' that are often less 'flamboyant' or 'street cred'.

Thank you for the advice.

[*Boot's*]

question deleted, sorry not used to this...

[haydes55]

Would i benefit much out of a turbo setup on my far 250 yamaha? power to weight? would it be worth it?

That's relevant to the thread, start a new thread fool.

Also "will adding a turbo make a change to power to weight ratio?" Noooooo a turbo weighs like 37.68kg and produces 16 of the horse powers..... What the fuck do you think a turbo does?