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Thread: Advice wanted for long-time stored bike

  1. #1
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    1st May 2016 - 09:43
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    in between bikes
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    Advice wanted for long-time stored bike

    Back a few years now I was riding a VTR250 and I thought it'd be sweet to do some touring, so got myself a 1999 K1200RS. Took it on one big trip, it behaved really well, then I decided to move overseas. Sold the VTR250 to a workmate but couldn't get any bites on the K1200.

    Long story short I'm back and it's been sitting in my damp garage since mid-2012. There's a bit of bubbling around the top of the gas tank, but otherwise it looks OK from the outside. Are there likely to be bad problems with it, given how long it's sat there?

    I've since started a family so I only need a small bike for commuting now. How much should I be expecting to sell it for? I bought it for $7500 from a dealer, I'm assuming I'm not going to get even a fraction of that... ah well.

    Thanks for any advice you can give me.

    Cheers,
    Roger

  2. #2
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    23rd March 2016 - 00:17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mogest View Post
    Back a few years now I was riding a VTR250 and I thought it'd be sweet to do some touring, so got myself a 1999 K1200RS. Took it on one big trip, it behaved really well, then I decided to move overseas. Sold the VTR250 to a workmate but couldn't get any bites on the K1200.

    Long story short I'm back and it's been sitting in my damp garage since mid-2012. There's a bit of bubbling around the top of the gas tank, but otherwise it looks OK from the outside. Are there likely to be bad problems with it, given how long it's sat there?

    I've since started a family so I only need a small bike for commuting now. How much should I be expecting to sell it for? I bought it for $7500 from a dealer, I'm assuming I'm not going to get even a fraction of that... ah well.

    Thanks for any advice you can give me.

    Cheers,
    Roger
    From experience, I bought a bike which on the second ride started cutting out and running really rough then not at all. A closer inspection located a bit of bubbling round the tank. A look inside the tank showed a heap of rust which had gotten into the lines and clogged the injectors. A lot of time, a new tank, and injectors cleaned etc got it running good again, not to mention a fair bit of money. I would recommend before trying to start it (if you haven't already) to drain the old fuel out, thoroughly inspect the inside of the tank for rust. That way even if it is rusty it won't have gotten into the lines yet and you can get the tank cleaned and sealed or replaced etc. From there try running it, if it fires and runs then just let it heat up enough to to change the oil and filter etc. That would be my suggestion, there will probably be more advice from others out there but definitely check for rust in the tank.

  3. #3
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Addo007 View Post
    From experience, I bought a bike which on the second ride started cutting out and running really rough then not at all. A closer inspection located a bit of bubbling round the tank. A look inside the tank showed a heap of rust which had gotten into the lines and clogged the injectors. A lot of time, a new tank, and injectors cleaned etc got it running good again, not to mention a fair bit of money. I would recommend before trying to start it (if you haven't already) to drain the old fuel out, thoroughly inspect the inside of the tank for rust. That way even if it is rusty it won't have gotten into the lines yet and you can get the tank cleaned and sealed or replaced etc. From there try running it, if it fires and runs then just let it heat up enough to to change the oil and filter etc. That would be my suggestion, there will probably be more advice from others out there but definitely check for rust in the tank.
    Yep, even better: do nothing before you fit an in-line filter after the fuel petcock.

    Paint bubbling around the cap means the cap assembly needs to come off and the surrounding exterior area cleaned and primed. Might as well check inside with a strong light while you're there. If there's traces of rust inside you can track down some POR15 and follow the instructions, it's a valid fix. Worth checking around for a 2nd hand tank in better nick first though.

    Once you've fixed that problem the bike should run OK, far better prospects of selling for something like what it's worth. Up to you if you want to pay for repainting the tank or simply discount the price on resale.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  4. #4
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    7th March 2006 - 21:17
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    Yep what they said.

    Also replace the brake fluid, it will be knackered. May have seized brake assemblies or master cylinders, so checks/care needed.

    Battery will be toast, only fit the right one, not some half arsed thing.

    Pull out the air filter, no doubt a paper type, so prone to rotting, don't want that motor inhaling a rotten air filter, can make things complicated.

    Similar with the oil filter, could well be poked if the paper variety, so change out prior to starting. In fact, would be well worth changing the oil prior to start up. Once running and had a good work out, may require another change if it looks fouled.

    Ffs be careful with the tyres, they could well be shot from sitting, especially if they were flat. Have em checked out by a bike shop (brakes too) if your unsure to get an informed view. Be wise to advise any buyer of the tyres/brakes if they want to test ride it, it could end in tears if things go belly up aye.

    Ya want to pull the plugs and see what shape they are in, may have rust on em, if so, ya may want to inspect the bores for rust. While ya got plugs out, spin the engine up to get the oil circulating prior to fire up.

    Once all going, may be worthwhile running a fuel cleaning solution through it to sort any build up in the injection system being fiddly chite they are. Actually, be interesting if the fuel pump even runs????? Could well be fooked/seized from sitting in putrid fuel, common occurrence.

    Btw, when attempting to start, don't wind it over for long periods, could over heat the starter and create more issues/cost for you.

    Have fun getting zee german running.




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  5. #5
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    25th January 2008 - 17:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruaphu View Post
    Yep what they said.

    Also replace the brake fluid, it will be knackered. May have seized brake assemblies or master cylinders, so checks/care needed.

    Battery will be toast, only fit the right one, not some half arsed thing.

    Pull out the air filter, no doubt a paper type, so prone to rotting, don't want that motor inhaling a rotten air filter, can make things complicated.

    Similar with the oil filter, could well be poked if the paper variety, so change out prior to starting. In fact, would be well worth changing the oil prior to start up. Once running and had a good work out, may require another change if it looks fouled.

    Ffs be careful with the tyres, they could well be shot from sitting, especially if they were flat. Have em checked out by a bike shop (brakes too) if your unsure to get an informed view. Be wise to advise any buyer of the tyres/brakes if they want to test ride it, it could end in tears if things go belly up aye.

    Ya want to pull the plugs and see what shape they are in, may have rust on em, if so, ya may want to inspect the bores for rust. While ya got plugs out, spin the engine up to get the oil circulating prior to fire up.

    Once all going, may be worthwhile running a fuel cleaning solution through it to sort any build up in the injection system being fiddly chite they are. Actually, be interesting if the fuel pump even runs????? Could well be fooked/seized from sitting in putrid fuel, common occurrence.

    Btw, when attempting to start, don't wind it over for long periods, could over heat the starter and create more issues/cost for you.

    Have fun getting zee german running.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Damn good advice, pretty much did all of the above before attempting to start me ol Coal Burner. She went first time and has gone very time since, tank has that POR 15 stuff in it and never looked like giving me trouble.
    Bottom end has never been touched, but EVERYTHING else has been replaced., repaired or reconditioned, started up every 3 -4 months and taken for a short shake down , warm up ride just to be sure she's all good, that ride starts off around the block but has ended up in Hamilton for lunch!
    Every day above ground is a good day!:

  6. #6
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    7th March 2006 - 21:17
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    Forgot a few things. Check the throttle cables, linkages etc, clean and lube. Had one bike jam on heavy throttle, not nice, tends to cause brown out in ya daks.

    Check the brake lines over for perishing, cracks bulges. Tend to be a common point of failure.

    Forgot, its a beemer, so check the drive shaft set up and change fluid, that may probably be poked too.

    Let the mob know how ya get on


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  7. #7
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    All good advice. One more point, when you drop the oil, it will look clean. Don't be fooled, all the crap has dropped to the bottom of the sump....

  8. #8
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    1st May 2016 - 09:43
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    Wow, thanks for the amazing detailed advice!

    It sounds like the kind of attention the bike needs is way past my abilities. I guess I'll put it up for sale with the disclaimer that it's going to need attention from someone who knows what they're doing, and take the hit. Can't really justify taking it into a shop when I don't know how much I'll get for it/if I'm going to be able to sell it at all.

    Thanks again everyone.

  9. #9
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    28th May 2006 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by mogest View Post
    Wow, thanks for the amazing detailed advice!

    It sounds like the kind of attention the bike needs is way past my abilities. I guess I'll put it up for sale with the disclaimer that it's going to need attention from someone who knows what they're doing, and take the hit. Can't really justify taking it into a shop when I don't know how much I'll get for it/if I'm going to be able to sell it at all.

    Thanks again everyone.
    or talk to someone about spending abit of time on it going over it, small investment now could improve the value by a fair bit

  10. #10
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    23rd March 2016 - 00:17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mogest View Post
    Wow, thanks for the amazing detailed advice!

    It sounds like the kind of attention the bike needs is way past my abilities. I guess I'll put it up for sale with the disclaimer that it's going to need attention from someone who knows what they're doing, and take the hit. Can't really justify taking it into a shop when I don't know how much I'll get for it/if I'm going to be able to sell it at all.

    Thanks again everyone.
    How much are you looking for?

  11. #11
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    1st May 2016 - 09:43
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    Yeah jellywrestler that's a good idea, I'll do that.

    Addo007, I dunno how much, as much as it's worth! At this stage I know it's not going to be anywhere near what I paid for it.

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