Pink Batts vs Insulation blanket material

[Oakie]

Looking at insulating our ceiling ... approx 90sqm. Have been quoted $2500 for a blanket product (polyester I think) that goes over everything as opposed to Pink Batts which fit between the timber things.

Anyone got any experience with how these two products measure up against each other? Haven't been able to find any NZ comparisons.

[skippa1]

Blanket, if you do between the trusses, it is recommended you blanket over top anyway

[eldog]

http://www.roof.co.nz/uploads/sideba...013-03_(1).pdf

section 4.7

maybe the link is broken but you should search for the NZ code of practice for roofing.
Definitely look at the higher R values which are a minimum for Sth Is.

cover between the joists and blanket over the top of the joints to prevent heat loss thru the timber.
Cover to the outside wall of the house if you can.

Look also at what type of light fittings you have, see if you can change them (if they are down lights) to the newer LED coverable type. Otherwise the insulation has to be cut away from the light fittings and transformers.

I may have some terminology wrong but it will pay to go for better options.
The installer can cut you some extra pieces so you could fill in the gaps if you change your light fittings later (I am assuming you have downlights, not the std lightbulb)

I have an attached garage and plan on insulating that as well as I feel it is dragging out the heat.
the insulation guy who has quoted me thought this was a prudent move (even though it gave him more $)- I know of another house which is well insulated in all areas, floor, walls, roof except the garage - the temp difference is really noticeable.

But your main decision will depend on how long you plan on staying there.....

I am sure there are a few KB members who know a great deal more on the subject.

Look into lifetime of insulation and settlement etc

I am currently looking at a heat pump install to augment the insulation work I plan to do.

[jellywrestler]

http://www.roof.co.nz/uploads/sideba...013-03_(1).pdf



Look also at what type of light fittings you have, see if you can change them (if they are down lights) to the newer LED coverable type. Otherwise the insulation has to be cut away from the light fittings and transformers.

not entirely correct, thee are bucket typ covers that can go over the older downlights so insulation can go over the top, also newer led 'coverable' ones as you mention, need to be checked as to what there status of insulation surrounding it is to be, just because it's a new led doesn't mean it can be covered.

[BMWST?]

http://www.roof.co.nz/uploads/sideba...013-03_(1).pdf

section 4.7

maybe the link is broken but you should search for the NZ code of practice for roofing.
Definitely look at the higher R values which are a minimum for Sth Is.

cover between the joists and blanket over the top of the joints to prevent heat loss thru the timber.
Cover to the outside wall of the house if you can.

Look also at what type of light fittings you have, see if you can change them (if they are down lights) to the newer LED coverable type. Otherwise the insulation has to be cut away from the light fittings and transformers.

I may have some terminology wrong but it will pay to go for better options.
The installer can cut you some extra pieces so you could fill in the gaps if you change your light fittings later (I am assuming you have downlights, not the std lightbulb)

I have an attached garage and plan on insulating that as well as I feel it is dragging out the heat.
the insulation guy who has quoted me thought this was a prudent move (even though it gave him more $)- I know of another house which is well insulated in all areas, floor, walls, roof except the garage - the temp difference is really noticeable.

But your main decision will depend on how long you plan on staying there.....

I am sure there are a few KB members who know a great deal more on the subject.

Look into lifetime of insulation and settlement etc

I am currently looking at a heat pump install to augment the insulation work I plan to do.

depending on the age of the house the garage itself may not be insulated but the wall between the house and the garage should be

[AllanB]

depending on the age of the house the garage itself may not be insulated but the wall between the house and the garage should be

Requirement is for the wall between to be insulated and not the attached garage external walls or roof. Fucking stupid arse dumb fuck in Wellington somewhere making this rule. A house costs how many hundreds of thousands to build yet the boffins say it is OK to skimp on a couple grand tops on a attached garage.

I installed some r3 or something in the roof of my attached garage - made a huge difference in the summer (cooler) and currently a lot warmer. I should have gone for a higher rating but I was being a tight bastard at the time. Oh well always a top-up or blanket to add when funds allow.

[jellywrestler]

Requirement is for the wall between to be insulated and not the attached garage external walls or roof. Fucking stupid arse dumb fuck in Wellington somewhere making this rule. A house costs how many hundreds of thousands to build yet the boffins say it is OK to skimp on a couple grand tops on a attached garage.

I installed some r3 or something in the roof of my attached garage - made a huge difference in the summer (cooler) and currently a lot warmer. I should have gone for a higher rating but I was being a tight bastard at the time. Oh well always a top-up or blanket to add when funds allow.

i did my house with off cuts from trademe, half bales etc, cost less and i don't care that there's differnet types, noone looks in there except me

[Akzle]

greenstuf>pinkbatts. Properly done between the timber is fine, only if you do a half arse job that you'd need a blankie over the top.
Also need to batten your wiring and stuff.

[eldog]

not entirely correct, thee are bucket typ covers that can go over the older downlights so insulation can go over the top, also newer led 'coverable' ones as you mention, need to be checked as to what there status of insulation surrounding it is to be, just because it's a new led doesn't mean it can be covered.

I didn't know about the covers....

Yes check suitability of what you have, not all new devices can be covered - some aren't, rated it pays to check.

At least it will give the OP something to think about.

I was up in my roof a while back, the amount of air coming through the downlights I have is quite a lot.

[eldog]

depending on the age of the house the garage itself may not be insulated but the wall between the house and the garage should be

house is 1978
I doubt it is insulated
concrete slab

going to insulate the roof with Sth Is recommened insulation even though I live in Akl, will be cheaper in the long run

current insulation has slumped down, so looking at getting it back to current std

[haydes55]

Old style down lights let out more heat than opening a window. An average house can have 30 down lights, all needing to let air through them and a gap to the insulation.

Just go for the highest R value. Get the professionals to install it. If you do it yourself, don't block the air path to the soffit. Mould and moisture in the roof cavity causes loads of issues.

[jellywrestler]

I didn't know about the covers....

Yes check suitability of what you have, not all new devices can be covered - some aren't, rated it pays to check.

At least it will give the OP something to think about.

I was up in my roof a while back, the amount of air coming through the downlights I have is quite a lot.

modern downlights carefully selected will go into the old holes, some have clearances up to 150mm from timber, to the side and above, often when the previous ones were installed they didn't care about clearances to timber, so not all new lights will go in. the older ones were generally 50watt, the new around 9 -12 so pay for themselves by being around six times more efficient, and have a better spread of light too. 6 halogen downlights will use a unit in 3 hrs around 30 cents, six led's will use the same power over 18 hours so you can work out payback time, so if you're spending a bit on insulation think about putting new downlights in, especially in lounges where they are on a lot and will pay for themselves over time, toilets hallways and bathrooms are usually not on long so the power savings while there take sometime to recover
look for downlights with 0 scb and 0 hcb measurements (hcb and scb are clearance to building elements -timber) be careful they all should have a mic rating this is the minium insulation clearance so as some say the insulation can go right over them, yes but there are some clearances.

[Erelyes]

current insulation has slumped down, so looking at getting it back to current std

Then blankie over the top is the go.
Install is also more straightforward - and less cuts = less gaps. A lot of the benefit in batts depends on the quality of install.

New LEDS are a shizload better than old downlights. They are not airtight, but the cost of making them so (I found) outstripped the benefit. Mainly cos noone really makes the right kind of thing in NZ, and we're relatively ignorant to the benefits of airtightness in a living space.

New LEDs will have a massively higher cost/benefit than new insulation. If you have the old cans, get rid of them, they're evil. Ideally you want IC-F rated LED's.

[jellywrestler]

Then blankie over the top is the go.
Install is also more straightforward - and less cuts = less gaps. A lot of the benefit in batts depends on the quality of install.

New LEDS are a shizload better than old downlights. They are not airtight, but the cost of making them so (I found) outstripped the benefit. Mainly cos noone really makes the right kind of thing in NZ, and we're relatively ignorant to the benefits of airtightness in a living space.

New LEDs will have a massively higher cost/benefit than new insulation. If you have the old cans, get rid of them, they're evil. Ideally you want IC-F rated LED's.

new led downlights are airtight, unless you're using gimbal ones but even they have very small airgaps. one thing the 50watt ones did is create a shitload of heat, with the airgap and thermal movement they literally sucked the air from the house as their hot air rose. ic-f a very small part of selecting the right units, the scb and hcb is the most important for retrofit, and with this if these ratings are zero they will be ic-f automatically. there are als differnt heat rated lights, and the insulation needs to be compatible with this, and certified, otherwise your insurance could be invalid. the buckets cost money, not as much as you link says in nz the only cost saving in using them is you don't need a sparky to install, although you are allowed to legally install downlights in your own home you live in

[Akzle]

Mainly cos noone really makes the right kind of thing in NZ, and we're relatively ignorant to the benefits of airtightness in a living space.

except it isnt. And if your shits air tight you building will always be a nett energy consumer to get the requisite (healthy) number of air changes.

Passive building design ftw.