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Thread: Painting advice.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    4th December 2016 - 19:39
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    Hyosung GT250 2008
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    Cool Painting advice.

    Hey guys!

    New to the forum and need some advice on painting options

    I started a minor restore on my Hyosung 250. Mainly to protect the swingarm from further rust.

    Hopefully get to painting tommorow and the plan is to strip the paint back and apply primer, a semi gloss enamel topcoat and possibly some protective clear coat layer (all aerosol).

    I'm wondering whether to strip back to the raw metal and paint from scratch. Or to remove the rust I can, rough up the factory paint and prime/repaint as I have read this provides a stronger adhesion rather than bare metal.

    I will probably strip the swingarm as the paint has started to peel.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    A few photos

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    Swingarm

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    Part of frame

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    Close up example of rusted area

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    28th January 2015 - 16:17
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    2000 Ducati ST2
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    I've done a bit of this sort of thing in the garage. Not a pro by any means so take the advice below with a pinch of salt:

    - folding table as a paintbench is useful
    - get cheap drop cloths and cover everything else in the garage (I mean that - everything), overspray goes a long long way
    - if it feels cold / humid, don't paint, you might have problems with the paint never setting properly
    - orange peel or paint runs are to be avoided. Get something cheap to practice on, get a feel for spray distance, direction and duration
    - get some cheap respirator masks against paint dust - and get used to working with the garage door open and bailing out when the fumes hit. If you can work with your back to constant airflow, do.
    - Aged / faded / chipped paint: just strip and repaint the whole item, you can colour match but you can't match degraded paint.

    The most important bit is your preparation. 90% of your result is your prep. Any surface dings, grease, scratches etc are going to show up big time. Degrease obsessively, rip old paint right off, take any rust back to bare metal. Put the elbow grease in first, it's way easier to strip it back properly at the beginning than it is to go back and do it again later. An angle grinder and some of the paint stripping discs - carefully used - are well worthwhile, so is spending a bit of time with various grades of emery paper. Wire brushes are good for corners or irregular surfaces. Wear latex or nitrile gloves while working, too. Greasy fingers / rusty fingerprints are a pain and are easier avoided than cleaned later.

    One thing about paint: there's drying time and then there's curing time. Drying time is for solvents to clear from the paint, curing time is for the paint to harden. New paint, even dried, is very soft and very easy to damage. In the absence of pro gear designed to get finished product out the door fast, you may have to leave painted items for a week or so before reassembly, and even a few days between coats if the object has to be turned over.

    It's possible to do OK work relatively easily, good work is a lot harder. Patience, practice and prep all count. Good on you for getting into it!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    4th December 2016 - 19:39
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    Thanks heaps OddDuck, I'll make a note of that.

    Getting into it tomorrow hopefully all goes well.

  4. #4
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by OddDuck View Post
    - get some cheap respirator masks against paint dust - and get used to working with the garage door open and bailing out when the fumes hit. I
    N-fucking-O.

    get a full or half face respirator that's rated for voc. preferably tyvek boilersuits too, cos that shit will soak into your pores and kill you.

    no fucking shit. dust masks ARE NOT FOR PAINTING aerosol, two-pack, or pretty much anything you're atomising.

    also, you shouldn't have your back to the wind cos there shouldn't be any fucking wind, or you're going to have crap™ blown into your finish.

    also, OP, do a fucking search. and it's not worth "restoring" a hyobag.

    the bare metal vs prepped surface is debate that will rage for aeons. until they invent some shit better than etch primer, i'm rolling bare metal. also chuck that shit in the oven for a day or so before you lay paint. small thing but it helps heaps. which you'd know, if you did a fucking search.

  5. #5
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Quote Originally Posted by OddDuck View Post
    and even a few days between coats if the object has to be turned over.
    If you can, hang pieces rather than sit them.

    I'm no expert either but I have found it much better to hang things a box. You can turn slowly and get 360 coverage.
    I was advised in the past if it's not a hot day hit the piece with a heat gun our the wife's hair dryer first. Bring it to around 40 degrees. Hot to the touch but not burning you.
    If you can close the box better still as this will help keep dust off your drying piece. So long as there is some air holes for the accelerants to exit.
    I have used something similar to this arrangement for exhaust parts. http://www.familyhandyman.com/painti...ter-painting#2

    Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

  6. #6
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Posting this separately because out is important.
    Know how much you are prepared to put into this bike and why.
    This cheap respray may get real expensive real fast.

    Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

  7. #7
    Join Date
    28th January 2015 - 16:17
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    Just carrying on with the safety aspect - Akzle's reply got me to do some reading. This short and very good guide turned up:

    http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg388.pdf

    Anecdotally, a neighbor had mentioned a former professional tradie who had come down with sensitisation (full body rash) and had to quit the trade.

    Yeah, it's rattlecans at home in spare time for occasional projects, not full time with 2K formulations... it is slippery slope material though. I've gotten away with rough and ready so far but as they point out, by the time you're aware of a problem, it's for life. Once it's in, it doesn't get better.

    To the OP - as pointed out, the bike's not worth restoring in terms of cash. As a learning drill it might be worth doing, but if you're keen to move up to a better bike, you may want to think about bucks into this one versus bucks saved for the next one.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    4th December 2016 - 19:39
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    Hyosung GT250 2008
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    Wellington
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    Thanks for the input guys.

    Have decided to strip and paint the swingarm as it has quite a bit of surface rust through it and need to fix for a warrant.
    However I'm leaving the frame as is, maybe a few rust preventatives here and there.

    Ha I agree i may be putting too much energy into this bike but it is more of a learning experience/project.

    Cheers

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