Buy your wheel bearings from someplace like Saeco, Schrodoco, etc. As long as you can take the old bearings in they can match them up and they will cost far less that the genuine part. (If you take the bike to a shop to get them done, chances are the shop mechanic goes to a place like this)
If you do change the bearings yourself, support the wheel on a big bucket, drum etc to avoid banging on the discs. Keep an eye on the order the spacers and stuff go, draw a picture if necessary. Don't hammer directly on the new bearings when putting them in, use the old bearing between the hammer and the new one. Don't use a brass punch either, the brass flakes and gets into the bearing. Take your time, Use good quality wheel bearing grease, lithium moly is good. Enjoy the good feeling of doing it yourself.
re the indicator lens, if the hole isn't too big, fill it with 5 minute araldite and a bit of red nail polish for colour (if its a rear lens)
Rear sprocket bush (?) - do you mean the cushes (rubber wedges between the sprocket carrier and the hub?) pretty much the only thing you could do with these is fit new ones. Do that while you're changing the bearings.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
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Originally Posted by Slingshot
Sorry bud.
, i went to 2 different mechanics and they said my Outer Tie Rods were fine!!!!!! Yet my mate takes his bike down there, and they ask him "hows the brakes?" he replies with "Good" they say ok. But now they are putting the bikes on the rollers for brake testing, which i see as an improvement.
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