VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[tigertim20]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

They look to big too be clutch springs, my money would be valve springs, they seem to have the same amount of loops in the two photos not to say they are different sizes still though I guess

if you think thats too big to be a clutch spring, you need to refresh your clutch knowledge my young friend. at a total height of 20mm Id say theyd be more like too small to be clutch springs!

[actungbaby]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

I am gathering bits for my VFR rolling chassis. It will need a new engine. I had a brilliant idea of using a new Bonneville motor in it for shits and giggles. Except the new Bonnies have the output sprocket on the right, eht VFR motor has it on the left. Short of turning the swingarm upside down (MAJOR hassle $$$ and time and engineering) I am thinking of other motor options.

My favourite one was an RD500 motor but the exhaust plumbing in particular is daunting, and again BIG $$. I could always pick up another motor for not much money, but the idea of MOAR power is intriguing. I have searched but I wonder if anyone has shoehorned a VFR750 motor into one of these frames?

ideas/suggestions anyone?

There one on trademe at the moment only problem i got when see engines for sale is
You got to wonder why anyone take a working motor out in the first place if was going perfectly well.
As i brought 2 dudes of trademe and was told they both ran yeah right , with rust inside the motor
And con rod bearings so think like paper , and to be honest most whould no better if we got given any said motor
it might turn over fine does not mean much though
from know on, I will only buy motor, i see running because even the carbs are blocked up through years no use
Been qouted big bucks just have them cleaned up big bucks damm.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-446820857.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-446341392.htm

I might get tips from each other i got vt 250 rolling chassis with no motor
I rekon big single whould be cool also , and in your good handling frame.

if its a twin spar one . rd 500 engine you have real handfull of motorbike
The best part these bikes is there easy to ride why make them worse

A pararell Twin be nice i agree you have to get the balance right weight wise
A not sure in bike you want weight on the front wheel 60/40 split ?hmm on car in middle best
Dont think this is good idea on a bike though

I think if you weighed the front wheel and then the back on set of bathroom scales
With motor in the frame then move it to adjust balance , ride it and see how it feels then move the brackets
that bolt the engine to the frame , you still want rear to have grip too mind you

You have to get the engine to the rear sproket front sprocket inline .
and then you whould have the suspension spring rates front & back
If motor is alot diffrent weight esp heavy Vfr 750 the pro link linkage ratio rates might need to be changed also
You whould need wider rims also, that mean changes also alot to think about

oh ps am getting my vt 500 motorbike soon i wonder if these motors whould be a good fit oh its got shaft drive
Maybe bros engine whould be nice there good motor too relaible sound nice.

[DrunkenMistake]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

if you think thats too big to be a clutch spring, you need to refresh your clutch knowledge my young friend. at a total height of 20mm Id say theyd be more like too small to be clutch springs!

Look at the post time, we both posted at the same time, so I have only just noticed pictures were posted.

[HenryDorsetCase]

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslis...e0200_98c4.gif

cylinder head diagram for a VFR700

how would clutch springs get in teh front cam cover though? and presumably without lunching the rest of the motor on the way thru?

[jono035]

Didn't realise it was a VFR700, for some reason I thought you had an NC30... In that case, ignore my valve springs.

[jono035]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslis...e0200_98c4.gif

cylinder head diagram for a VFR700

how would clutch springs get in teh front cam cover though? and presumably without lunching the rest of the motor on the way thru?

I dunno, the idea of the engine keeping running with some valve springs loose in it seems pretty mind-boggling as well, although a shitload more likely. Perhaps the previous owner used the head as storage for spares?

[Scuba_Steve]

Well just got home from paintball, went and had another proper look (with more light this time). found where they came from
On the other side (right-hand when facing the bike) of the 2 big middle cogs are something? the top cogs one is broken this is where the 2 chewed pieces of metal & the 4 small springs have come from.
So pictured is the whole front showing the 2 cogs, the complete bottom cog, & the broken top cog

[jono035]

Oh, OF COURSE! The cam gears are 2 gears on the same shaft countersprung together, I assume for backlash/chatter prevention. Knew they didn't look like valve springs

So the keeper for the springs has failed, and the springs and bits have ended up sitting in the head. I would probably assume that there are bits and pieces that have made their way into the sump, too. At least the pieces will be steel, so at a bare minimum, do an oil/filter change and get one of those magnetic sump plugs.

Take a careful look around the entire head and see if you can see anything else broken or with any major dings out of it (specifically the cam gears and cam lobe surfaces). Take the timing cover off and turn the engine over (making sure to turn it forwards, should be marked) and inspect all the moving bits in there to see if anything is marked up or chipped.

As for fixing the problem itself, if you can get a replacement intake cam with its matching holder and journals from a wrecker then that should just drop straight in. If you can only get the cam then I don't know what the deal is. Check all the bits for service tolerances and then just give it a shot?

Pretty easy procedure, but you will definitely need a torque wrench and probably some molybdenum grease if you want to do it by the book.

That's my thoroughly unprofessional opinion on what I'd do just as a rough starting point.

Edit: That's probably the best possible outcome for finding random springs loose around your rockers.

[more_fasterer]

^^^ Agreed. Just make sure you rotate the engine to TDC, and ensure the new cam is installed in exactly the same position as the old one.

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

Just finally got around to installing the Ignitech programmable CDI that I bought ages ago.

Took the bike for a blast, no more noticeable flat spot then surge at 7k, instead it's smooth through the range. I can't tell whether the bike would be noticeably faster or not, but it's way nicer to ride around town.

Also, apparently my tacho was reading 10% high, too...

Edit: Just having a bit more of a play with it, it seems to ignore the side-stand cut off switch. There was a box in the software that said 'inputs for neutral side and stand' but checking it just made the bike never start, no matter what clutch/shifter/side stand position it was in... Anyone else using one of these and trying to keep the cut-out?

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

I've just brought one for my RVF, once it's back together I'll let you know about the side stand cut out.

Where did you get the programmable CDI from? Direct from Ignitech?

[motorbyclist]

WOW - at first I thought clutch springs, but too small and WAY too far north...... then sure enough there's where any tappety noises would be coming from!

See something new every day I guess! Jono's advice seems pretty solid

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

Hey guys n gals, i just bought my first VFR 400R....so no mechanical issues yet. Seems pretty straight and handles well (from the test ride anyway) Im suspended at the 'mo, lost my demerits through speeding on my GSXR...shame. So i decided a down size might be a good idea for a while at least. the only weird thing is the 'SPEED' warning light on the instrument panel. What's that all about? Never encounted that before, so excuse my ignorance ha ha. Also, some tips on service or maintainence intervals or just general comments on this model bike would be greatly appriciated. 1991 VFR 400R. cheers aye

Speed light? Photo of said light and whole bike? I'm pretty sure the japanese market NC30 bikes don't have speed lights... you might have an NC21..... NC30 is awesome and has muffler on left hand side, NC21 is far less awesome (but still mechanically solid) and has muffler on right hand side

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

The motors in stock form are renowned for reliability: key is oil and filter changes. They can be a bit hard on spark plugs I find and spark plugs are VERY expensive.

I find oil every 5,000km and filter every second oil change to be a good recipe for any high-revving and/or sport bike if you want them to last. Oil filter for me every second oil change, air filter and plugs as needed around 20-25K and I usually get the carbs balanced by someone who knows what they're doing around then too.

For road use you don't need to change to a 17" rim unless race slicks become WOF standard. Fitting a wider rear tyre does not enhance handling on the road, either.

Dont be ripped off by NZ bike dealers who want $45 a plug and don't have a clue - $120 for oil filter, air filter and 4 plugs : http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/V...SE/part_22860/

[motorbyclist]

1982 NC12



1984 NC13



1986 NC21



1987 NC24



1989 NC30





1994 NC35

[PirateJafa]

Easiest way to tell the VFR400s apart:

If you have dual swingarms and the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC21.
If you have a single swingarm with the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC24.
If you have a single swingarm and the exhaust on the LHS, you have a NC30.

If you have a VFR of any sort, you have chosen wisely.

[ecko_nzed]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

Where did you get the programmable CDI from? Direct from Ignitech?

Rick Oliver http://www.rvf.dk/rickoliver/

[sil3nt]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

Easiest way to tell the VFR400s apart:

If you have dual swingarms and the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC21.
If you have a single swingarm with the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC24.
If you have a single swingarm and the exhaust on the LHS, you have a NC30.

If you have a VFR of any sort, you have chosen wisely.

Easiest way to tell what bike he has is to look on his profile

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...hmentid=256964

[Scuba_Steve]

This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote

So the keeper for the springs has failed, and the springs and bits have ended up sitting in the head. I would probably assume that there are bits and pieces that have made their way into the sump, too. At least the pieces will be steel, so at a bare minimum, do an oil/filter change and get one of those magnetic sump plugs.

Be worth strapping some neodymium magnets to the oil filter then???

From what I can see all inside looks good, so now I'm on the search for what will be "America's (vfr) Next Top Front Intake Cam"