The DR650 thread

[NordieBoy]

Come on man.... save us some work, what shop sells them? ~$$?
Been thinking about trying that kind of thing out for the WR.

Mitre10 did back then...

$30

I go for the good stuff.

It cost the guy in Alabama about $5us

[pete-blen]

easy removeable screen...
pics from ADV rider

[Jantar]

There are two DR650s I'm tossing up between.

One is 2006 with 18,000 km on the clock and is pretty standard. The owner has taken all the adventure riding stuff like large tank, bash plate. etc off and put the origional tank etc back on, so the bike is very much in tidy origional condition.
The other is 2008 with 20,000 km on the clock, and while still in tidy condition it has been used as intended. There is a small indentation in the tank that isn't at all noticeable untill you sight along the tank in direct sunshine. The bash plate (Ross Hay special) is included. This bike would probably be my first choice except for one question. The muffler has been replaced with a DZR400 exhaust and has been opened out. The bike has not been rejetted. When I took it for a test ride I noticed that it continuously backfired on the the overun. Is this normal for this type of exhaust mod? Will rejetting help prevent that backfiring?

Any advice will be appreciated.

[NordieBoy]

When I took it for a test ride I noticed that it continuously backfired on the the overun. Is this normal for this type of exhaust mod? Will rejetting will help prevent that backfiring?

Any advice will be appreciated.

The DR's BST40 carb doesn't have a coasting enrichener so it does backfire. Does it even with the stock pipe, it's just quieter.

A DynoJet kit, ignoring their instructions and opening the airbox top up would do wonders.

[Drew206]

Thanks a lot Nordie and others for input.

Here are a couple of shot of my first attempt at making the screen and I think it has turned out aright. Took all of 1/2 am hour and $35 worth of material. Looking forward to trying it on a ride very soon.

[NordieBoy]

Thanks a lot Nordie and others for input.

Here are a couple of shot of my first attempt at making the screen and I think it has turned out aright. Took all of 1/2 am hour and $35 worth of material. Looking forward to trying it on a ride very soon.

If you get some turbulence, open the bottom up like my TT one. The extra air file helps heaps.

Try it out to Hori bay.

[Jantar]

........
The other is 2008 with 20,000 km on the clock, and while still in tidy condition it has been used as intended. ......

The DR's BST40 carb doesn't have a coasting enrichener so it does backfire. Does it even with the stock pipe, it's just quieter.

A DynoJet kit, ignoring their instructions and opening the airbox top up would do wonders.

Picked it up today.

[Buyasta]

Picked it up today.

Congrats!.. Glad to see that me snapping up that other cheaper one before you could buy it didn't stand in the way of you picking one up.
Also if it's any consolation, My one pretty much refuses run, so you're probably better off.



When I first got it, it had a fairly large hole in the throttle response - you'd twist it and it'd lag a bit before picking up, and TigerTim, who'd checked it out for me, said it was probably running a bit lean, so I wound the fuel screw all the way in, then out 1 1/2 turns, as I'd read that was generally about the right spot.
After that it seemed to be running just fine, aside from being a little reluctant to start, and I managed to get about 450-500km of trouble-free riding.
Then one day when I went to go to work on it, the throttle pull cable came off at the carb end, so I whipped off the tank and reattached it, and rode in to work, with the bike refusing to idle properly and stalling every time I closed the throttle completely. I then spent a few hours playing with the throttle idle screw, and I'd get it idling just fine, only for it to then decide that after riding for a few minutes it'd changed its mind and it was going to start stalling again. At that point I played around with the fuel screw again, and got it to a point where it seemed to be idling fine 99% of the time, but was mostly fine, and I rode another 100-150km on it.
Then a day later I rode from my house to the petrol station about 2.5km away to fill up, and on the way there it was running mostly ok, aside from refusing to idle again, but as soon as I'd filled up and started heading home, it decided it was about through being co-operative. It started to feel a little like it was thinking about dying on me - the revs and power just dropping away briefly, then coming back up, so I gave it a little more throttle in the hopes of making it home before it died, at which point it began surging like crazy, and eventually died completely about 50-100m from home.

While it's bloody difficult because it doesn't have an extended fuel screw, and my selection of tools pretty much consists of the toolkit off the bike, a few extra screwdrivers, and a driver with a bunch of screwdriver bits, I've played around with the fuel screw some more, and have not since been able to get the damn thing to start.
I'm fairly mechanically inexperienced, so I'm not sure, but I think the problem probably comes down to either an issue with the choke cable being pinched by the tank, causing it to run too rich, the jetting being a bit off (It's a US bike, the guy I bought it from had bought it in the US and rode it across the states, then imported it to NZ, where I don't think he ever actually rode it), or the carb being dirty - when TigerTim took it for a test ride, he got about a km before it died and refused to start, so he pushed it back to the guys house, where they removed the fuel filter, which had clogged. I've taken a look, and it looks like the seller forgot to actually put the filter back in, so sediment in the tank may have made it into the carb and blocked the jets or something.

I decided I'd try to kill three birds with one Procycle order - get some fuel filters to prevent any further fuel sediment issues, get the engine mounted remote choke kit so the choke cable wouldn't receive interference from the tank, and the procycle jet kit - I'd clean the carb when I installed it, hopefully get it jetted right, and it comes with an extended fuel screw.
I'd always been hoping to get a TM40 kit for it eventually though, and a friend of the family is coming to NZ from America in January, so I'm hopefully going to buy the TM40 kit, get it shipped to them, and get them to bring it in their luggage, as the final landed cost would have been 1/4th shipping and GST + related fees.
I'll be getting it from Kientech rather than Procycle, because his is a bit cheaper and comes with the big tank choke kit which is an extra $35 from Procycle. Anyway, he sends them prejetted, but I imagine some adjustment may be necessary, so I'm wondering what sort of jetting other people running the TM40 with modified airbox are running?.. I haven't actually modified my airbox yet, but I plan on doing it when I install the new carb.

When I had another go at getting the bike going a couple of days ago, I noticed that even though I'd filled up the bike and made it about 2.5km before it died, the tank was down to maybe 2/3rds full, and had significantly more missing than it should. I'd read on Procycle that with the non-stock fuel petcocks that aren't vacuum operated, you have to turn them off when you're not using the bike, because if the float valve leaks, fuel can run through the carb into the engine crankcase. I'm not sure if my fuel petcock is the standard one that comes with the IMS tank, or if it's some other replacement petcock, but it's definitely not vacuum operated - it's got a fuel line coming off it and nothing else - and I'm guessing that missing fuel has probably ended up in the crankcase. I'm assuming that means even if I could get it to start, I really don't want to ride it until I've changed the oil, but do I just do a normal oil change, or do I need to go a bit further to flush any fuel out?

Sorry about the rather long explanation and many questions, but I'd definitely appreciate any advice anyone has on getting it sorted out. I already had to borrow some money to get the bike in the first place, and might have to borrow a little more to cover the carb kit, so while I will take it to a mechanic to get it sorted out if I absolutely have to, I'd much rather do it myself - in addition to not really being able to afford it, I'd like to learn this stuff.

[NordieBoy]

Bring it up. I'll have a look at it.

[MikeJ]

One thing to try...make sure the choke is returning properly. The cable gets water in it and goes dry and partially corrodes. Choke gets used and seems to return but doesnt fully, hence the rough idling/cutting out. Dont get too vigorous with removing cable from the carb...the collar nut holding the cable into the carb is plastic.

[Jantar]

...., so I wound the fuel screw all the way in, then out 1 1/2 turns, as I'd read that was generally about the right spot.
After that it seemed to be running just fine, aside from being a little reluctant to start, and I managed to get about 450-500km of trouble-free riding......

I suspect that fuel screw you've been playing with is only adjusting the mixture at idle. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm for an exploded view of the carb. It sounds to me like it could be float level, or a clogged filter (item 24 in parts view).

[Buyasta]

I suspect that fuel screw you've been playing with is only adjusting the mixture at idle. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm for an exploded view of the carb. It sounds to me like it could be float level, or a clogged filter (item 24 in parts view).

According to the BST-40 Bible on ADVrider, it controls the fuel mix up to about 1/4 throttle.

Just going by my gut, I think some of my problems have been caused by the choke cable - at one point when trying to get it to run it smelled like it was dumping a bunch of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, but since fiddling around with the choke cable, I don't think it's doing that anymore.
Now I suspect it is probably a clogged jet or something in the carb - I'm going to pull it off and take it apart and give it a good clean, hopefully that'll fix my issues.

But either way, I'll get the TM40 kit if I can get that friend to bring it over - avoiding paying another 1/3rd of the price just in shipping and GST + the other stupid fees they add at the same time is too good an opportunity to pass up.

[Eddieb]

According to the BST-40 Bible on ADVrider, it controls the fuel mix up to about 1/4 throttle.

Just going by my gut, I think some of my problems have been caused by the choke cable - at one point when trying to get it to run it smelled like it was dumping a bunch of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, but since fiddling around with the choke cable, I don't think it's doing that anymore.
Now I suspect it is probably a clogged jet or something in the carb - I'm going to pull it off and take it apart and give it a good clean, hopefully that'll fix my issues.

But either way, I'll get the TM40 kit if I can get that friend to bring it over - avoiding paying another 1/3rd of the price just in shipping and GST + the other stupid fees they add at the same time is too good an opportunity to pass up.

If the bike is still running the US jetting for US ethanol fuel then it's quite possibly too rich on pure NZ fuel. A few of us have had similiar issues using US recommended jetting in the FCR39 carbs.

[NordieBoy]

I suspect that fuel screw you've been playing with is only adjusting the mixture at idle. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm for an exploded view of the carb. It sounds to me like it could be float level, or a clogged filter (item 24 in parts view).

According to the BST-40 Bible on ADVrider, it controls the fuel mix up to about 1/4 throttle.

mx_rob found it affected fuelling up to about 5,000rpm when he was playing with his wide band a/f meter.

[Buyasta]

If the bike is still running the US jetting for US ethanol fuel then it's quite possibly too rich on pure NZ fuel. A few of us have had similiar issues using US recommended jetting in the FCR39 carbs.

Unfortunately there's not really anything I can do about that without new jets and needle.
The US model uses a different needle with only one clip position, so I can't alter that, and I don't have any spare jets. Originally I was going to get the Procycle jet kit, but since I'm getting the TM40 kit instead, there's really no point.
While it may not be possible to get it running ideally on the current jets and needle, it was running fairly well for a while, so I'm pretty sure the problem is either the lack of fuel filter, or the choke getting jammed partially on.



I just finished disassembling the carb, and the top half, where the slide is, was a little dirty, but nowhere near as much as in the pictures in the BST-40 bible, but the bottom half, where the float sits had quite a bit of sediment in it, so I'm hopeful it might run a bit better after I give it a good clean and reassemble it.

I'll leave the whole lot soaking in Kerosene overnight, and then give it a good clean with some more kero and some q-tips tomorrow.

If fuel has gotten into my crankcase though, I'm guessing I don't want to run the engine until I've given it an oil change?.. I'll have to order an inline fuel filter and an oil filter tomorrow, and pick up some oil.