Looks like it might be cold tomorrow so these should be handy. Fitted them yesterday.
Fair weather rider
Hardcore Biker
Must be the onset of spring, the clocks changing, or the daylight lasting a bit longer... but during the oil change I finally managed to get around to drilling out the centre of the sump plug for about 5mm deep with the 6mm drill, and aralditing in a good stong magnet (Thank you petes emporium - 60c) I have previously only remembered to do this job just as I have poured in 2 lites of fresh oil!
There was a slightly concerning amount of swarf left at the bottom of the oil pan... Every shard a false neutral or crunched change!
At least it will now stick to the magnet so I can be even more easily concerned. ah well...
Armature speller
I just drop the magnet in the hole.
It's not coming out...
Hardcore Biker
SissyOriginally Posted by Magnum Noel
Seriously, had them on my DR and ZRX and they were great.
Just waiting for a few other shiny bits and will have a set fitted to the TDM.
I did note that the rubber grips on the ones on my DR were well worn which means a job to replace them so we have fitted the heating pads on the other bikes which go under the grips so the grips can be changes and the pads retained. They are available on Ebay for a few bucks, just add a better switch from Jaycar or DSE and bob's your uncle.
Forum whore
How long have you had the tdm? and are you happy with it and any problems so far?...
Forum whore
Anyone had issues with slop in the rear brake lever on their DR650's.
J's DR failed the WOF because they didn't like how much the lever moved before the Master Cylinder piston started to move.
What to do what to do.
I pulled the lever off and it seems like the hole at the end where the yoke attaches by a pin may be a fraction elongated and maybe the same in the frame, generally looks ok but I guess a bit of play here and a bit of play there all adds up.
Any one any advise on a fix or do i go buy new lever, pin and yoke and hope there is no issue with the frame?
Reckon my DR has a similar amount of slop but I pushed on a new one in the shop on the weekend and it was quite firm by comparison.
www.remotemoto.com - a serious site for serious ADV riders, the ultimate resource in the making.
Check out my videos on Youtube including... the 2011 Dusty Butt 1K - Awakino Challenge and others.
Forum whore
weld the holes and re-drill.. or drill for a bigger pin.. ie 6mm pin re-drill to 1/4
which is .4mm bigger than 6mm... If the frame hole shagged..drill bigger & bush it..
make the bush from soft bronze so it becomes "sacarfissal ?" wares faster so the lever shaft dosn't.
theres a few idea's if they are possable on a DR...
Hardcore Biker
Had the bike since March this year.
More than happy with it. Have done 3,000 kms and have been away for 2 months of that time as well.
It came with a PC3 and scorpion cans so it never had the low rev shudders that some seem to have, although I did remove the flutter valve as per forum instructions.
May not be as capable in the rough as the DR was but for the limited time I am on gravel it is fine. Not as quick off the mark as the ZRX was but I have no regrets and have had not a single issue with it and the fuel range is excellent compared to the ZRX and as good as the DR. I am averaging 19.8 kms/litre with a mixture of riding.
Just waiting for a centre stand from Twisted Throttle and will be piling on the k's again. Have fitted Givi racks, paddock stand bobbins, engine crash bars, accessory sockets, indicator buzzers (cause I'm a forgetful dick) and will have the heated pads and centre stand on in a few days.
If you want a road bike that will do gravel more than adequately, want to go 2 up touring, then I recommend the bike.
I love it!
Hardcore Biker
Isn't it adjustable?
Can't remember but thought there was a threaded bit somewhere somewhere.
Armature speller
On the master cylinder plunger.
Forum whore
That's the height adjustment, has no effect on the amount of slop.
www.remotemoto.com - a serious site for serious ADV riders, the ultimate resource in the making.
Check out my videos on Youtube including... the 2011 Dusty Butt 1K - Awakino Challenge and others.
Hardcore Biker
I don't know about that
Slop as in side to side, or slop as in up and down?
If your footlever is travelling too far before you get some piston movement, then try the adjustment. Won't hurt will it?
If side to side sloppy, make a small plastic bush and get back to get it certified
Cheers
Forum whore
It is the foot lever travelling too far before the piston moves and no the height adjustment has no effect. You get a lever sitting high which still moves a heap before the piston moves. I'll look at welding and drilling the holes etc as per pete-blen's post... but it's not something I have the skills or tools for.
www.remotemoto.com - a serious site for serious ADV riders, the ultimate resource in the making.
Check out my videos on Youtube including... the 2011 Dusty Butt 1K - Awakino Challenge and others.
Armature speller
Wrap some shim material (beer can) around the shaft and bung it back in...
Fair weather rider
Now you tell me!!!Sissy
Seriously, had them on my DR and ZRX and they were great.
Just waiting for a few other shiny bits and will have a set fitted to the TDM.
I did note that the rubber grips on the ones on my DR were well worn which means a job to replace them so we have fitted the heating pads on the other bikes which go under the grips so the grips can be changes and the pads retained. They are available on Ebay for a few bucks, just add a better switch from Jaycar or DSE and bob's your uncle.
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