"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
I was told to avoid oil products like CRC as it is real effective getting the tyre on but fuses the tyre to the rim making it real difficult to break the bead to get back off. Have seen a heap of frantic tyre changing done recently due to roadracing in the wet at Teretong and the biggest hassle seems to be breaking the bead. About to go up in tyre sizes on my DR to the max I think will fit. a 120/60-17 front and 160/60-17 rear. Will need to carve a bit off the chainguard though.
Thanks for this info as it is a benefit as I see it. I'd rather have trouble breaking the bead every so often than finding out (via a flat tyre) that they tyre has spun on the rim when riding with low pressures off road. I can see how this might be a pain for somebody who doesnt ever lower tyre pressures though.
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Yes I guess that would actually be a benefit on an adventure bike most times. Due to seeing tyre problems on my first major Adventure ride recently I will be going in with a few others and share taking spare HEAVY DUTY tubes, tyre irons and a pump between us. Some tube just aren't repairable. I wonder if bead cream would make the tyre more likely to move on the rim after inflating? Used it for the first time last weekend helping someone change tyres and it certainly did assist getting the trye on.
I've gone off heavy duty tubes.
The only flats I've had were puncture type and a nail is going through regardless.
I keep above 18psi and don't ride fast in the rough stuff (or smooth stuff) so pinch flat prevention with the HD tubes isn't an issue.
The HD tubes have just been a bugger to carry with the extra weight and bulk.
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
I carry 2 hd tubes of the correct size so then i don't have to change them again when I get home. Do it once do it right build a better New Zealand.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
this looks like a reasonable deal ... 4.5K for a '08 with around 6 thou on the odo ...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-225493022.htm
That is an incredible deal...
yea nice looking bike and great price...very tidy.
oh and great price, wonder why so cheap....
I FEEL THE NEED, THE NEED FOR SPEED
my ride picshttp://picasaweb.google.com/sueycarter
other ride pics http://picasaweb.google.com/113645336286831595353
I have been asked about what I have done to my DR650 for racing. Its all pretty simple really.
The wheels are off a GSX250. The rear required machining some of the metal off the sprocket carrier and a new sprocket drilled, and some spacers made. The front just spacers and machine down the original disk as it was 300mm and needed to fit the standard caliper 290mm disk. I
got an engineer to do this as I am not capable of that sort of stuff. Wheels cost $700 all up with sprockes and disks plus crap tyres.
Sliders on the axles, bar ends and on the rear peg mounts, this is a requirement for racing at kart tracks and is to prevent track damage more than bike damage. I got plactic offcuts from a factory for $30 enough to do about 3 bikes worth. Tethered kill switch for street races($12 from a boatshop). Wire up anything that has oil.
Rip the top off the airbox, put a bigger flow exhaust and a dyno jet kit in. Rout the breather into the airbox and the carb overflow into a bottle. The carb overflow is the only thing that actually spits out anything and it is origanally routed directly in line with your rear wheel. You can go oversize to even the dynojet kit jets if you run without and air filter as I do - not recommended for anywhere else though. Get decent tyres, I love the
Dunlop GPRa10's as they slide without dumping you on your ass. Have had good run with a 110/60-17 front and 150/60-17 rear. Have just fitted a 120/60-17 front and 160/60-17 but haven't run them on the track yet so can't reccommend them yet.
If you want to WIN forget all the above and buy a KTM, Honda CRF or Husquavana for twice the price and expect to spend over 5 to 10 times the ammount in maintainance.
So far I have done 40 speed events and probably over 30,000 km and have not done anything mechanical to the bike except for jetting, exhaust, 3 sets brake pads, 4 sets tyres and oil etc.
Done so far since march 2007
1 Mini TT
2 Gravel Sprints
2 Gravel Hill Climbs
11 Motard meets at the Kart track.(includes 2 trips to A&E)
2 Road Hill Climbs
2 1/4 Mile Sprints
1 Road Bent Sprint
9 Roadrace meetings Teretonga
2 Street Race meetings Wyndham
6 Roadrace meetings at Levels
2 Roadrace meetings at Ruapuna
22 events planned between now and new year already!
6 Motards
1 Gravel Hill
1 Gravel Sprint
5 Teretonga Events
1 Wyndham Street
4 Levels Events
1 Greymouth Street
1 1/4 Mile Sprint
1 Road Hillclimb
1 Bent Sprint
Heaps of action so get yer DR sorted.
Would you believe when I put the DR in the Clubmans class at the Nats in Levels it came mid field!
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