This is commonplace with the Safari tank and easily solved. Just fit an MX non return valve to the breather tube. When she quits for lack of fuel, blow the tank up and away again. Willl drain the tank completely.
Outback Oz, we got 700km from that tank as near as dammit.
I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was.
I have used several (lose them in a big OFF occasionally) and there is a good deal of variability. However, I have NEVER had one that sealed when I didn't want it to. It's usually the other way round. You must have got a really sticky one.
You got it; just give it a blow job. You only have to lift the fuel about 100 mm and you don't have to do much more than puff to do that. Just remember that the vent holes are on the bottom, so you have to get the whole knob in. (Ask Jim).
The non-return valves are intended to prevent fuel spills and so don't initiate a seal in the upright position. (Sometimes they won't initiate a seal in the inverted position either unless they see a degree of back flow - all depends on how free the internal ball is). As soon as you stop blowing, give the valve a shake or turn it upside down to encourage the internal ball onto its seat.
They've got me to the next servo many a time and never had a problem making it work. The most interesting time was in the middle of a road tunnel at rush hour in Sydney.
As mentioned above, how easy it is depends on how free the ball is but always been able to make it work.
I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was.
So, what are the tricks to getting the 4 bolts that hold the brake disk undone?
I'm trying to mount my DR350 wheel but need to change the brake disk first, them bolts don't want to undo. I'm nearly at the point of drilling the fuckers out and then using some new bolts.
just smack each screw with a rubber mallet a few times straight down on the head, then slightly tighten them then they will backout easily -- if that stubborn use a soldering iron to heat just the screw head then repeat
I've tried heat and an impact gun, I'll try a bit more before just drilling them fuckers out.
Thanks for the suggestions though, I'll try the Scubbo method and see if it helps.
There aren't any bearings or seals anywhere near, the bearings are still sitting in my bedroom, I'll grab them when I go to actually mount the wheel on the bike.
Fuck me!
I used everything I could - heat, impact gun, hammer, pneumatic chisel, swearing, etc
Those fuckers were on damn tight, I think that brake disk was on from the factory and never moved - I could feel the dished out part from wear.
Gave up and drilled through them, used a big enough drill to break the heads of and then used my screw extractors to get the rest of the screws out.
That shit took fuckin' ages!
Now, how bad would it be to ride on 90/10 (off/on road) knobblies (they have "not for highway use" written on the sidewalls) for about 200kms on the road?
Or should I strap this 18" on the back and ride down with my 17" wheel and change the wheel over when I get to Taumaranui?
Remembering of course to take my new wheel bearings and sprocket carrier bearings & cush rubbers.
Or mount the Mitas E07 on the 18" and put that on the bike and strap the Kenda K770 tyre to the back of the bike?
That far on 90/10 you might just get mistaken for snoop dogg. Cos you be rolling blunts.
They will probably look all right and run alright until you really need them to dig in.
I ran some knobbies with road ratings to work for a while because bank balance said no more tyres for me.
They won't fine... on the road and in the gravel... just not on clay or even grass
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