ESE's works engine tuner

[Flettner]

I run my F9 on Ethanol (E90) with 10% 98 petrol. Petrol is there to help it light up (hard to start without it) and I think it helps speed the burn as ethanol is slow (er) burning. Took a long time to tune as it is different to methanol in that it has more energy than methanol but is mixed at a lower rate (7 / 8ish to 1). Methonal will make more power but you use a lot more as compared to Ethanol. It's an odd fuel to tune with as the engine tune will change when the engine hits about 70 C, needs more fuel. This is hard to adjust with the carb (impossible!) but with the EFI there is a engine temp graph, temp / TPS, you can put a "ramp" in the fueling at that temp. Also (air cooled engine) you can up the fueling substantially if the engine starts getting real hot. Only issue is the temp sensor is in one of the head studs and takes it's time to redgister, should put it in the head, a new casting perhaps. I have tried nitro, it just breaks stuff and more than 10% and you will be found out!
A foot note, with all this development in the engine department and all this POWER available, almost double most of the other competitors had, I still could not get a trophy. It's hard to beat a well ridden motorcycle with a good rider. My modus operandi has always been "power is king" and "if some is good then more must be better" but that's just crap.

[husaberg]

I run my F9 on Ethanol (E90) with 10% 98 petrol. Petrol is there to help it light up (hard to start without it) and I think it helps speed the burn as ethanol is slow (er) burning. Took a long time to tune as it is different to methanol in that it has more energy than methanol but is mixed at a lower rate (7 / 8ish to 1). Methonal will make more power but you use a lot more as compared to Ethanol. It's an odd fuel to tune with as the engine tune will change when the engine hits about 70 C, needs more fuel. This is hard to adjust with the carb (impossible!) but with the EFI there is a engine temp graph, temp / TPS, you can put a "ramp" in the fueling at that temp. Also (air cooled engine) you can up the fueling substantially if the engine starts getting real hot. Only issue is the temp sensor is in one of the head studs and takes it's time to redgister, should put it in the head, a new casting perhaps. I have tried nitro, it just breaks stuff and more than 10% and you will be found out!
A foot note, with all this development in the engine department and all this POWER available, almost double most of the other competitors had, I still could not get a trophy. It's hard to beat a well ridden motorcycle with a good rider. My modus operandi has always been "power is king" and "if some is good then more must be better" but that's just crap.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel15.html
The petrol component would likely be better replaced with acetone.

[nasone32]

http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel15.html
The petrol component would likely be better replaced with acetone.

Yes, but as with other chemicals, acetone is aggressive on some seals, so care is needed

I had to lurk the board to find a Frits' comment about the Ryger exhaust temperature. So, no, physics dictates that the ryger achieves high rpm in another way
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130916123

However, while tinkering with engmod a lot of time ago, with short combustion times and a wide rpm sweep, i remember reading the power raising again after the "overrev". sometimes even at some 70% of the max power.
for example you have max power at 14k rpm, then the power falls and then rises back again at 20k, also with a wide bell shape.

I'm just throwing in a bait for Frits. maybe he'll read my rubbish statements and in a raptus of anger will reveal everything

[husaberg]

Yes, but as with other chemicals, acetone is aggressive on some seals, so care is needed
:

As is the 90% Ethanol he is mixing it with

[MotleyCrue]

However, while tinkering with engmod a lot of time ago, with short combustion times and a wide rpm sweep, i remember reading the power raising again after the "overrev". sometimes even at some 70% of the max power.
for example you have max power at 14k rpm, then the power falls and then rises back again at 20k, also with a wide bell shape.

I'm just throwing in a bait for Frits. maybe he'll read my rubbish statements and in a raptus of anger will reveal everything

Well I dont have Engmod but I posted that very concept many pages back and suggested that the HCCI (if it is HCCI) and some other trickery is used to fill in the rpm gap between the two legit power peaks. Nobody denied the 2 power peaks, and nobody denied filling in the gap between the 2 power peaks. The 2 power peaks (one well past the normal overrev) should exist even for a regular engine with a bit of messing about, but filling in the rpm gap between the peaks to get the engine up to the rpm to make the higher rpm peak might not be too easy so probably why it hasnt been "discovered" for mass consumption. The way to see it would be to buzz some engine to 40-50% more rpm than normal peak HP rpm then load it and see where the higher peak is and how much HP. Have a feeling the stinger might have to be bigger but maybe not.

[nasone32]

Ok to stop this ryger frenzy of myself i'll post something more 2strokey.
This is my billet crank. only treatment is a nitruration.
It's old stuff, i made it 4 years ago, but it's also new stuff, because i had health issues and i could not assembly anything.
now i'm slowly back at work.
i made 2 of them.
one as a backup.

48mm stroke, 100mm conrod. 18mm big end.
it has extreme weight, to reduce fluctuations, on a cvt engine torque fluctuations are taxing on the belt. plus the engine has to stay at steady speed.
almost 2 kilograms.

[Grumph]

I'll stick to my relatively safe toulene/xylene/gasoline mix for now.
On a side note, methanol is very difficult to obtain in Norway cause some people made a habit of drinking it. Also anything with "nitro" in the name has gotten really restricted.

Back in the open fuel days in NZ, national motorcycle roadrace titles (4T)were won on 80/20 Meth tolulene mix. Consumption is 20% less than straight meth so rich petrol jets and needles are all that's required.
Then we moved to adding Nitro to that base mix. Mixed well, kept well, easy starting. 25% Nitro saw another couple of roadrace titles.
In karting the 80/20 Meth base mix worked but changing it to 70/20/10 Meth, tolulene, benzole was even better.

i knew a local roadrace sidecar crew who determined by trial and error that their aged Honda 4 could accept 11% nitro before going bang.
When asked why the engine breather terminated on the steering head, they said, if you see a blue flame at the end of the breather, roll off the bike and wait for the bang...The rings weren't that good and left too long between oil changes it had a sump explosion....

[Flettner]

Back in the open fuel days in NZ, national motorcycle roadrace titles (4T)were won on 80/20 Meth tolulene mix. Consumption is 20% less than straight meth so rich petrol jets and needles are all that's required.
Then we moved to adding Nitro to that base mix. Mixed well, kept well, easy starting. 25% Nitro saw another couple of roadrace titles.
In karting the 80/20 Meth base mix worked but changing it to 70/20/10 Meth, tolulene, benzole was even better.

i knew a local roadrace sidecar crew who determined by trial and error that their aged Honda 4 could accept 11% nitro before going bang.
When asked why the engine breather terminated on the steering head, they said, if you see a blue flame at the end of the breather, roll off the bike and wait for the bang...The rings weren't that good and left too long between oil changes it had a sump explosion....

I guess that's why the rules changed, fourstroke sump explosions can ruin your day and everyone else on the track.

I have a friend what drove a Standard 10 (car), one day a piston broke. The offending piston and rod were taken out (hoseclip around the crankshaft to keep the oil pressure in, for what there was of it) but the valves, pushrods and spark plug were still working in that cylinder. After a time, with fuel being able to get into the sump and mix with the oil, there was heard a loud explosion (main street of Te Puke), sump combustion, turned external.
At least when I had to shut down one piston on my Zepher Six engine I took the pushrods out and removed the plug cap. Zepher Five didn't seem any more gutless

[TZ350]

This is my billet crank. only treatment is a nitruration.
48mm stroke, 100mm conrod. 18mm big end.
it has extreme weight, to reduce fluctuations, on a cvt engine torque fluctuations are taxing on the belt. plus the engine has to stay at steady speed.
almost 2 kilograms.

I love it.... great work.

[speedpro]

Ok to stop this ryger frenzy of myself i'll post something more 2strokey.
This is my billet crank. only treatment is a nitruration.
It's old stuff, i made it 4 years ago, but it's also new stuff, because i had health issues and i could not assembly anything.
now i'm slowly back at work.
i made 2 of them.
one as a backup.

48mm stroke, 100mm conrod. 18mm big end.
it has extreme weight, to reduce fluctuations, on a cvt engine torque fluctuations are taxing on the belt. plus the engine has to stay at steady speed.
almost 2 kilograms.

Adding Mallory metal opposite the big end would seem a better option if you were looking for a weighty crank and needed to balance it, rather than drilling holes and removing material. Nice looking rod and nice work on the crank. I'm old enough now to fully appreciate being completely fit and healthy.

What is it going in? Looks like a scooter crank, obviously. I've got a warmed over scooter myself. Silly good fun at the lights and hitting the motorway.

[peewee]

I recall once i was using methanol with a 22:1 head (on a 70cc engine) and the kill switch did not kill the engine at all.

same thing happened to me 2 yrs ago. engine ran on with no ignition. float bowl was much larger than normal and I had a 65l p/hr pump. maybe the a/f went lean some how. I never figured it out and it never ran on again

at the end of each I day unplugged the line right after the fuel valve and hooked up a small bottle of mixed race gas to flush the system. it would run long enough to get about 8oz or so of gas through the system. never had a problem with standard ktm crank seals holding up fine

the crank bearings are skf rollers with polymer cages and I think they are fine also. havent taken the engine apart but everything spins very smooth so I don't see any cause for concearn. when it blows up ill worry about it

[breezy]

Yes, but as with other chemicals, acetone is aggressive on some seals, so care is needed

I had to lurk the board to find a Frits' comment about the Ryger exhaust temperature. So, no, physics dictates that the ryger achieves high rpm in another way
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130916123

However, while tinkering with engmod a lot of time ago, with short combustion times and a wide rpm sweep, i remember reading the power raising again after the "overrev". sometimes even at some 70% of the max power.
for example you have max power at 14k rpm, then the power falls and then rises back again at 20k, also with a wide bell shape.

I'm just throwing in a bait for Frits. maybe he'll read my rubbish statements and in a raptus of anger will reveal everything

Luc Foekema posted an interesting article on his face book page with regard to ignition requirements, strength of spark at various rpms. perhaps he found a way to link these these two power peaks??

[TZ350]

.... infact we detune our motors ......

Sure, I believe you......

[nasone32]

I love it.... great work.

thank you

Adding Mallory metal opposite the big end would seem a better option if you were looking for a weighty crank and needed to balance it, rather than drilling holes and removing material. Nice looking rod and nice work on the crank. I'm old enough now to fully appreciate being completely fit and healthy.

What is it going in? Looks like a scooter crank, obviously. I've got a warmed over scooter myself. Silly good fun at the lights and hitting the motorway.

Thank you!
Yes it's scooter! It is going into this crankcase.
It's a billet crankcase welded on the original one. To cut costs down...
it has a ~460cc volume which gives 1,26:1 compression
2mm around the crank webs.
since the crankcase is custom i could employ some good bearings too.
The billet flange on the side, fixed to the wheel, is an addition which of course wasn't there on the scooter. is made so the crankcase won't tear apart.
with this kind of power the belt pushes about 1 tonne between primary and secondary shaft, which are 33cm apart.
I am 100% sure the single arm engine would break in half.

the cylinder is a 95cc copycat of the aprilia rsa. well the transfer ducts are copied, but the remaining is a bit different.
The exhaust port is a T-port and the exhaust duct, based on Frits' and Wobbly's writings, can be improved.

this configuration crashed 41 hp in engmod.

Also the cvt is completely from billet. I own a patent on the variator, which from this year will be employed by the stage6 brand (a German parts brand)

[adegnes]

thank you



Thank you!
Yes it's scooter! It is going into this crankcase.
It's a billet crankcase welded on the original one. To cut costs down...
it has a ~460cc volume which gives 1,26:1 compression
2mm around the crank webs.
since the crankcase is custom i could employ some good bearings too.
The billet flange on the side, fixed to the wheel, is an addition which of course wasn't there on the scooter. is made so the crankcase won't tear apart.
with this kind of power the belt pushes about 1 tonne between primary and secondary shaft, which are 33cm apart.
I am 100% sure the single arm engine would break in half.

the cylinder is a 95cc copycat of the aprilia rsa. well the transfer ducts are copied, but the remaining is a bit different.
The exhaust port is a T-port and the exhaust duct, based on Frits' and Wobbly's writings, can be improved.

this configuration crashed 41 hp in engmod.

Also the cvt is completely from billet. I own a patent on the variator, which from this year will be employed by the stage6 brand (a German parts brand)

Awesome!
You don't happen to have a build thread somewhere do you? Would love to know more about the project!

And what's up with that rectangle in the crankcase, secrets?