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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #4831
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    Muriatic Acid, aquas solution of Hydrochloric acid

    From Wiki

    Hydrochloric acid is a solution of hydrogen chloride (HCl) in water, that is a highly corrosive, strong mineral acid with many industrial uses. It is found naturally in gastric acid. Also called muriatic acid, or historically spirits of salt, hydrochloric acid was produced from vitriol (sulfuric acid) and common salt.

    I think this is what is in those green bottles of soldering salts that you can get at hardware stores.

  2. #4832
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac3_snow View Post
    Attachment 245940Attachment 245939

    ps. while crank is out I'm going to polish the journals so crank is floating as per Wobbly's suggestion. Maybe try those flash pheno-lick bearings too if I have the funds.
    Just a guess without knowing all that you have done but I bet that engine vibrates like hell in the higher revs. They are balanced at the factory to be good for the Cow Cockies, about 4-7000rpm, and you have taken more weight out effectively increasing the counterbalance, which means it will be better at lower revs

  3. #4833
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac3_snow View Post
    ...... the 'balance factor' was only 29% and with an ideal range of 50-65% it took a fair bit of strategically placed drilling to get the counterbalance weight about right for a 55% balance factor......
    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Just a guess without knowing all that you have done but I bet that engine vibrates like hell in the higher revs. They are balanced at the factory to be good for the Cow Cockies, about 4-7000rpm, and you have taken more weight out effectively increasing the counterbalance, which means it will be better at lower revs
    The way TeeZee tells it, it was a surprise to him too, he was expecting AC_Snow to have to drill the counterbalance area.

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    But when Snow initially checked it, he found out not much of the reciprocating mass was counterbalanced. It turns out that its nearly a full circle crank with hardly any counterbalance weight at all. The original holes were little more than equal to the big end pin and only 29% of the reciprocating mass was actually counter balanced. Makes sense when you think of the reduced forces involved in a slower revving TF.

    Now that a few extra holes have been drilled around the big end eye more (55%) of the reciprocating mass is now counterbalanced.

    And the alloy plug was to help with getting the reactive mass of the counterbalance symmetrical about the big end pin. Suzuki seem rather fond of asymmetric counterbalances, GP's TS's RM's and I guess other Suzukis from the 70-80's have them too.

    A full circle crank that has no counterbalance actually has a negative balance factor with the bigend adding to the reciprocating forces instead of the counterbalance subtracting from them.

  4. #4834
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Just a guess without knowing all that you have done but I bet that engine vibrates like hell in the higher revs. They are balanced at the factory to be good for the Cow Cockies, about 4-7000rpm,
    I have Never seen a cow cocky spin to 7000rpm.
    I have wound quite a few of them up over the years and witnessed the odd cocky siezure and blown gasket as a result.
    I too have noticed most of the Cow cockies are an unbalanced lot.
    I think it is due to the B.S.E and the ETS rather than Team E.S.E

    The steel frame to Alloy frame changes the factor needed to balance too as well as any changes in the way it is mounted in the frame.
    If you want to feel vibrations insert cr500 engine in alloy frame and then delete the head steedy. It could remove teeth as well as the fillings.refit a sturdy head stay= A okish

    Re the flux I did not know that, kind of makes sense.To clean off the impurity's use strong acid solution.

    Not really aplicable to a 2 stroke single, but the Air NZ workshop in CHCH used Dynamic balance the crankshafts as well as doing manaflux cracktesting and peening etc of quite a few old british Twins I supose the chinese wouldn't be able to do that for us now would they.Bloody out sourcing and global economy.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  5. #4835
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    If you want to feel vibrations insert cr500 engine in alloy frame...
    Jimmy had one of those.
    My bucket started life with a KLR600 engine. Vibration was unbelievable!
    Heinz Varieties

  6. #4836
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    Quote Originally Posted by bucketracer View Post
    The original holes were little more than equal to the big end pin and only 29% of the reciprocating mass was actually counter balanced. Makes sense when you think of the reduced forces involved in a slower revving TF.
    Actually 29% would be a factor for VERY high revs. At the far opposite end 100% would be perfect at 0rpm, just to illustrate which factors work at which RPMs.

  7. #4837
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Actually 29% would be a factor for VERY high revs. At the far opposite end 100% would be perfect at 0rpm, just to illustrate which factors work at which RPMs.
    Already posted but quite apt Phil Irving 1948
    It is quite useless to postulate any particular balance factor as being ideal: So many considerations enter into the matter that it varies with almost every design of engine, or even the type of frame in which engines of the same kind are mounted. That being so do not be mislead into balancing your engine just because one of your pals with an entirely different machine thinks he has some magic formula of his own.
    Phil goes on to offer a sugestion for trialing in situ the balance factors. that could work on some engines.this one below i found on a troll through the net.

    BALANCING SINGLE CYLINDER ENGINEShttp://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/t..._balancing.htm
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  8. #4838
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    tech info. postings

    thanks for the welcome tz350, should i come across anything of interest i will certainly post, as we all know its a small world... (as ive not made enough postings im unable to answer any pm s. sorry gb)
    Last edited by breezy; 1st September 2011 at 06:36. Reason: unable to pm at this point

  9. #4839
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    Quote Originally Posted by breezy View Post
    thanks for the welcome tz350, should i come across anything of interest i will certainly post, as we all know its a small world... (as ive not made enough postings im unable to answer any pm s. sorry gb)
    any info on the bikes you have had still have or would like to have
    specialy if you have raced them or restored them

    that way your post count goes up

    as far as getting ally out of the barrel soldering flux Duzzel worked for me
    I had to poore it on and leave a puddle of it on the ally (within half an hour it was starting to bubble ish) the wipped it off and started again. the barrel turned allsorts of colours from green to black.
    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  10. #4840
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    Here is next stage of RGV100 work.
    Pic is of a 125 kart engine, and same idea done to the RG to smooth flow from the reed box into the transfer ducts.When I get some Devcon it will look alot nicer.
    I will build this up to reduce the case vol,but as well to reduce the big area in front of the reed,that drops the velocity of the streams exiting the reed tips.

    And the cutout in the case to fit the electronic carb.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  11. #4841
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    Making some progress with my ATAC valve.

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    Used the cast iron part off the bottom of an old Chev carb.

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    And machined it down, next step is to shape it and braze it into the header. I aim to get the butterfly level with the inside of the header and as close to the manifold as possible.

  12. #4842
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Here is next stage of RGV100 work.
    Pic is of a 125 kart engine, and same idea done to the RG to smooth flow from the reed box into the transfer ducts.When I get some Devcon it will look alot nicer.
    I will build this up to reduce the case vol,but as well to reduce the big area in front of the reed,that drops the velocity of the streams exiting the reed tips.

    And the cutout in the case to fit the electronic carb.
    Nice work as always Wob has the rod been modified or is it factory machined like that around the big end eye?

    Looking at the pics I am struck by two things.
    the crankcase looks remarkably similar to the untrained eye to a Swissauto/ROC engine.but I think they did it to shop charge robbing with the shared crankcases between cylinders?
    Second thing is I guess crankcase comp is going to be well up or is it just because it will be 100cc rather than 125cc?

    note the engine weight of the Swissauto/ROC 39kgs
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  13. #4843
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    Thats pretty amazing work Wobbly, I was wondering what kind of stuffers you were going to put into there. Kinda destroyed any ideas I had about the insides of the engine.
    My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues

  14. #4844
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    I wonder about the oil supply to the bearings with the crank being partially covered over.

  15. #4845
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    I wonder about the oil supply to the bearings with the crank being partially covered over.
    I did too, but the I noted the big main bearing feeds and I guess the big end would be OK too...
    Heinz Varieties

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