ESE's works engine tuner

**TZ350** · 17th June 2009, 20:40

These Posts started, Page 70, 17th June.

(1) Post photos of all the cranks I have lying around and quickly discribe the features I can see on them.

Pic-1 Yamaha RD400 with lead balance weight.

Pic-2 Yamaha RD400 without lead balance weight.

Pic-3 Suzuki T500 with asymmetrical balance holes which means the counterweight is not directly opposite the big-end.

Pic-4 Yamaha RX125 with hollows forged/cast into the flywheels.

Pic-5 Suzuki RG50 which clearly shows the counterweight portion of the flywheel.

When the flywheel is drilled the counterweight part is not as obvious as in the RG50 (pic-5) you just have to imagine its there.

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**TZ350** · 17th June 2009, 21:13

These Posts started, Page 70, 17th June.

(1) Post photos of all the cranks I have lying around and quickly discribe the features I can see on them.

Pic-1 Suzuki GP125, hard to see but the front hole is a little smaller than the rear one.

Pic-2 80's Suzuki RM125

Pic-3 90's Suzuki RM125

Pic-4 Yamaha KT100 Kart

Pic-5 92 (I think) Honda RS125

Pic-6 Honda MB100 and is what I think the RS crank would look like with the tin covers off.

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**F5 Dave** · 17th June 2009, 21:28

how on earth are you typing all this? One handed? My posts got very brief for a month.

In Skunk's case he doesn't want a Vtwin with a horizontal cylinder, but a parrallel twin 270 deg TRX style.

**TZ350** · 17th June 2009, 21:37

Just had a PM from Skunk, Interesting project.

I am lucky, my right hand is OK, and I have all day.

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**ajturbo** · 17th June 2009, 22:07

and AJ just wants the RG50 to go a little bit faster.... but stay reliable

and for the GT to friggin FIRE

**F5 Dave** · 18th June 2009, 00:07

Originally Posted by ajturbo

and AJ just wants the RG50 to go a little bit faster.... but stay reliable

Lose weight. Turn throttle to open position, keep there, don't back off unless you really need to & even then count to 4 before doing so & only for a second

Originally Posted by ajturbo

. . .
and for the GT to friggin FIRE

Set alight.

**Sketchy_Racer** · 18th June 2009, 00:13

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Lose weight. Turn throttle to open position, keep there, don't back off unless you really need to & even then count to 4 before doing so & only for a second

Set alight.

Haha good advice Dave..

Your up late, baby keeping you up?

**sonic_v** · 18th June 2009, 02:25

One of the first port of calls should be to reduce reciprocating mass. If there are limited piston kit options for a particular engine and the gudgeon pin is of the parallel wall type, I like to obtain a tapered wall gudgeon pin from a different engine. In the worst case scenario you may have to shorten the pin slightly.

It is surprising how much mass can be saved with a tapered pin. I have found suzuki motocross engines to be a good source of gudgeon pins.

**ajturbo** · 18th June 2009, 06:28

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Lose weight. Turn throttle to open position, keep there, don't back off unless you really need to & even then count to 4 before doing so & only for a second

Set alight.

the 4 second rule.... that's where i have been going wrong.... all these years i thought it was 2 seconds...

**k14** · 18th June 2009, 06:51

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Lose weight. Turn throttle to open position, keep there, don't back off unless you really need to & even then count to 4 before doing so & only for a second

Yeah but then you end up with a broken wing, not very good advice dave

**ajturbo** · 18th June 2009, 07:25

Originally Posted by k14

Yeah but then you end up with a broken wing, not very good advice dave

ALSO.. i have NEVER heard HIM count!!!

**TZ350** · 18th June 2009, 08:26

.

Personaly, I close my eyes.

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**TZ350** · 18th June 2009, 08:39

These Posts started on Page 70, 17th June.

(1) Post photos of all the cranks I have lying around and quickly discribe the features I can see on them.

TF100 crank on the left 80's RM125 on the right. I've heard that the TF cranks vibrate real bad when rev'ed and that Speedpro fixed his by plugging the big hole with aluminum.

I have noticed that the TF is a-symmetrical and the motocross cranks are symmetrical (even sizes). The small hole on the TF crank could be opened up to, more like the RM and then plugged if you wanted to go to the extra work.

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**F5 Dave** · 18th June 2009, 09:16

Originally Posted by sonic_v

One of the first port of calls should be to reduce reciprocating mass. If there are limited piston kit options for a particular engine and the gudgeon pin is of the parallel wall type, I like to obtain a tapered wall gudgeon pin from a different engine. In the worst case scenario you may have to shorten the pin slightly.

It is surprising how much mass can be saved with a tapered pin. I have found suzuki motocross engines to be a good source of gudgeon pins.

Interesting advice with the tapered pin. But also grey area from the rules. Pistons are free. So are the gungeon pins? hmm.