ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

Very intersting looking engine that Wobbly is putting together for Yow Ling .......

Ok, this is where I am at with my carb's



24/38 on the left and 24/28 on the right.

The 24/38 flowed significantly more air than the 24/28 on the test rig but made no more hp on the dyno. That suggests that something else is holding it back. The 24/28 could be given a big handfull any time but the 24/38 had to be opened up with care.



It has taken me all week to make the brackets etc to get the 24mm pumper carb to fit.



Having a bend is not the best but at least it now tucks up out of the way. I am going to use a kart air box if I can get it to fit.



A view down the hole.

Maybe I will be able to get it on the dyno next week.

I have some parts coming to make an exhaust header ATAC valve out of, so it will be interesting to see what that does for the power spread.

[TZ350]

Page 320

I wonder if this below could in fact be the infamous special Pete Sales (s.s.h.h.f.S.u.o.s.e) catalog.
http://www.pro-x.com/downloads/Technical.pdf.
See last pages of catalog for conrods listings.

Will anything come of this?
http://twostrokemotocross.com/2009/0...s-strike-back/

what is a better gasket sealant to use on an exhaust? I have yet to stumble across a good one.

Red Goop is good for exhausts………. High Temp Silicon

I'm using high temp o-ring and hi-temp red silicone.

I agree with spreedpro it's got to be the RED Hi-temp silicone.

I use a silicon based lubricant on the O-rings. This is hi temp & soooo slippery

Hi-Temp Red dissolves in petrol. It turns to a very soft jelly and expands.. I use Yamaha Bond or similar, or a Loctite product depending on the application if petrol is involved. The modern pump gas is particularly bad given the % of Tolulene/Tolulol.

Three Bond 1104 Liquid Gasket Grey is available from Northern Accessories, the very best and is copied as Yamabond etc.
You must remember that ANY RTV based goop is NOT fuel resistant, so will not seal anything properly that is exposed to petrol long term.
The red hi temp RTV works well on exhaust spigots etc, even works to kill noise, when beads of it are run along a chamber.

Some carbs like the OKO are strong enough to hold in the lathe but the common die cast ones are pretty soft and easily crushed by the lathe jaws. When we were machining old 22mm GP100 carbs out to 24mm we made up a split clamping ring. The hole in the center was bored offset by putting a shim under one jaw, just like Wobbly suggested.

More info on the carb boring jig and Pictures on the original post.

Here it is I wish I had the Autocourse full story

Bit of Cagiva history

Some good old clips of Mamola, mostly on Cagiva GP bikes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90Woms8gb6o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaQGI...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtD_U...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsTt5...eature=related

Just something I spotted for Rob to muse over
http://www.mbe-motorsports.com/catal...roducts_id/337

2-Stroke EFI………

The air solenoids on the RGV/RS250 type Keihin carbs are there for emmission and air fuel correction at part throttle settings.
One feeds air into the primary circuit to lean off the mixture at just off idle conditions and the second one feeds air into the emulsion tube to lean off the mixture at higher rpm/part throttle.
The switching points are set by the ECU depending upon rpm and TPS position.
The F3 race kits blocked these off, and used a different jet setup for high perf usage.

The KR3 had special carbs on a few bikes, as they had nightmares trying to get the Keihins off RS125 Honda to work running around the wrong way.They used a pump around system to keep the fuel level at a constant height.

I finally figured out what was happening when building the BSL.
The floats were being pulled down under hard braking - flooding the bowls.So I had CNC bowls made up with floats from TMX carbs running on rods, instead of pivoting.

Just a note on the RGV carbs, the VJ21 used 32mm round carbs, the VJ22 Jap spec used 32x28 oval carbs (often called 30mm) and the OZ and UK spec VJ22 had the 34mm. The 32mm cant be that bad for a 125 cylinder. 125cc KZ2 kart engines make 45hp with 30mm Carbs, but if any one has a pair of 34mm RGV carbs I could be interested

Good day at Mt Welly today, weather was beautiful! Had the new rs125 pipe on and a new head which reduced the squish area down to 1mm. When I was fitting the head this morning I noticed the markings on the top of the piston, my thoughts where the carbon build up after one days racing would suggest rich mixture. However I think I was making things up and had no idea what I was thinking about as you can see the results after today in the next picture. Whoops!

That hole in piston pic - have you diagnosed what the issue is,always means too much advance for the com used,or too hot plug, or both - if run with crap fuel.
1mm squish means the squish is doing nothing - wouldnt help either, if the com was increased at the same time.

Bummer, now you will have to clean out the big end (or better yet, strip the motor and replace it). As the alloy sprays straight down into the rods oiling slots and jams the rollers making them skid. If its not already to late, the bigend will need to be carefully cleaned out or your next problem will be a blown bigend.

Speedpro tells me he has had success with engine clean and the garden hose, by wiggling the crank you can feel the dirt, engine clean followed by a bit of an aggressive flush out and then I guess CRC to get rid of the water.

But however you do it, the bigend and mains need to be cleaned out.

Although I once had some alloy welded and rolled and spent like 2 days trying to get it looking ok.
The best easy source of thin wall like 1.2mm Aluminium tubing I could ever find. Its irrigation tube, mainly used one market gardens now not real farms. Ask around if your have rural mates, but cheap as by the meter at Mico's comes in 75 and 100mm. For the packing I used to just buy the fibreglass packing wool string not cloth at the car muffler shop, I do know someone who uses fibreglass cloth from inside of the shell of ovens
But $10-15 will do all the mufflers you are likely to ever use in a lifetime of racing.

If you want to get real trick the rotary guys use stainless steel turnings from a machine shop lasts forever even with a pp20b.More for the 4 smoke here though.
For the baffle I just used to spend a few minutes with the drill and a bit of exhaust tubing. This was as per the bell book for a straight through design. the end caps were steel disks welded to the baffle pipe and a flat piece welded around the disk parallel to the alloy sleeve a four flat rivets and all done I used to spring mount the pipe to the stinger also used to sand bend a pipe to curve the exit for that gp bike look, But use really dry sand .I learned that bit the hard way.

I did a heap of testing for karts to try and get the noise below the newly set Db limits.
The best muffler core material is a trade off between open area - greater open area enables the packing to absorb more "noise" and the issue of the packing being blown out thru the holes.
In the end I settled on commercially available perforated 1mm sheet steel that is easy to roll up and tack weld along the joint.
Anything with approx 2mm holes on 3mm centres is the go.
The only packing that works properly and wont get blown out easily is called SilentSport muffler packing. Its easily the best and can be bought from MotoWorks in ChCh.
The other issue tested is power. Anything but a densely packed muffler will loose power, and making the core ID the same as the OD of the stinger seemed to be the best setup as well.

S'funny I've used that silent sport stuff for a while, but get reductions in sound by switching to Daytona matting. Both in my 50 & the 500. Oh & in the dirty bike as well.

A well made reversal end cap can pull a bit of sound out as well. I also made an extension muffler to fit on the end of my existing one for a track that needed real quiet. It was a reversal followed by a short perforated section slightly bigger than the previous with another type of packing. It was quite effective & back to back on the dyno made zero difference. Only issue was it did stress the welds after a while so I swap it out with a reversal if not needed.

Don't underestimate making the thing solid as opposed to flimsy & ally doesn't 'ring' as much as steel.

One of the pistons I got to look at was a KX85 that is available as a ProLite in 50.5 mm,part No 782M05050, but has the two oil holes on the front for a bridge - maybe not an issue as TZ350 has plugged these with Belzona.
It has single ring, pinned on center - with 14mm gudgeon.
The other one also available in that size is CR85 in +3mm ,but this has two rings pinned to the side, and they may not be in the right place.

A bit out of order sorry.They go 1,4,2,5,cover,3
I do note It leaves out the BOT rides in NZ on the Mcintosh Egli vincent against the japas and dukes and the rides on the first brook henry v2 with the belt drive bevel twin as well as what he did post 89 of course.
Note the megaphone stinger on the first page of the artical before Degner defected with all the MZ know how.
Suzuiki even stole the traditional MZ colour scheme So MZ changed theres to green for Envy.
http://2strokebiker.blogspot.com/201...roadracer.html
http://www.suzukicycles.org/history/...960-1967.shtml
http://www.yamahaclassictwostrokes.n...d=22&Itemid=32
http://www.yamahaclassictwostrokes.n...amaha-125-ra31

PDF’s of the interview with Huge on the original post

[husaberg]

I have ordered a bunch so you guys can use them if needed.
The pin is 14mm and fits the long rod we found in a book Pete Sales has,he he.
Using a manifold from an unknown source the 36mm powerjet carb goes on with a bit of cut and shut on the case.

Count me in for one Wayne

I wonder if this below could in fact be the infamous special Pete Sales (s.s.h.h.f.S.u.o.s.e) catalog.
These would of course would have to be legal.
Afterall they are not specifically listed for any competion bikes.
See last pages of catalog for conrods listings.shhh don't tell anyone.It's a big secret

http://www.pro-x.com/downloads/Technical.pdf

[husaberg]

Your pair of what?


Or did you mean Pears?

and if so, why is fruit being mean to you? Very curious

You scaly wag.
Crickey Dave,It is pretty obvious That my learned colleague was in fact refering to piers of the realm.
What ho Tootle pip.

And Re the Piston Dave seeing how you love Yamahas so so much
Why don't use use a yz100
They are window less came in single ring std (interesting the NOS wiescos seem to have 2 rings?)
They are quite comon on ebay at the moment on the downside they have a that fat Gudgen pin (16mm) that Yamahas prefer
You could use this so you would be able to feel vidicated/obligated to have to use a Yamaha rod as well.
That would ensure you are able to claim that as revenge for the evils that corperate Honda has waged against you.

[RMS eng]

Very jealous, the MB needs 50.5 std bore & nothing really fits & 52 is too big without destroking. I thought the KT100S was going to be the go, but it has a crazy tall design unlike the normal KT.

Also that CC reed position is so far superior to the one on my MB. I can improve it but that big step there is perfect, - almost if it was made that way. Oh I see. it was.

Dave, check ebay RM100 79-81 pistons have 14mm pin 77-78 have 16mm pin,KT piston look like shit.

chris
RMS eng

[wobbly]

One of the pistons I got to look at was a KX85 that is available as a ProLite in 50.5 mm,part No 782M05050, but has the two oil holes on the front for a bridge - maybe not an issue as TZ350 has plugged these with Belzona.
It has single ring, pinned on center - with 14mm gudgeon.
The other one also available in that size is CR85 in +3mm ,but this has two rings pinned to the side, and they may not be in the right place.

[husaberg]

Very intersting looking engine that Wobbly is putting together for Yow Ling .......

Ok, this is where I am at with my carb's
]
It has taken me all week to make the brackets etc to get the 24mm pumper carb to fit.

.

These might help with the tucking in of course you could use copper plumbing bends.
Neat idea on the Components for the Attac as well tz very clever.
A sourse of all sorts of chinese stuff I guess you jafa types could pop in http://stormparts.co.nz/

The TZR250 v twin carb is for wobbly. Could something like this be made to work? or too much work.

[wobbly]

The solenoid powerjet is ideal, but you do need a TPS to control the on/off sequencing.
RS250 Aprilia has an inline remote TPS on the carb cable, that could be used if a carb doesnt have one fitted on the body

[F5 Dave]

Thanks for the piston ideas guys. How many engines run centre pin over as boostport? Because they are theoretically on a symmetrical ex port there shouldn't be any twisting & I suppose the boost has a gentle lead in, at least on the way up where it is going quickest may be ok? The 256 Rotax copes doesn't it? I was surprised when I saw that (unless memory is failing me). Do you think the MB would cope running centre ring peg over a boost port?

[speedpro]

OK so far

[bucketracer]

Not the best practice but the Team ESE engines fitted with KX125 pistons run the ring gap over one of the secondary ports, we do give the port a good wedge shaped champher though, been OK so far, touch wood.

When TeeZee was running TZ pistons in RD cylinders he said the ring gap ran in the rear boost port, never had any trouble.

[wobbly]

The ring pinned on center setup is the best way to do it.
As the ring drops into the Ex port at its widest point, then is pushed back in by the corner rads,having the gap dead opposite the Ex means the ring moves symetrically in the groove.
The ring ends contact the pin at the same time,thus preventing any issues with one end banging on the pin continually from one side.
As long as the boost has a nice chamfer on its top edge all is fine with the ring ends.

[F5 Dave]

Good enough for me. Thanks.

[F5 Dave]

Hmm, strange, the std bore Wiseco KX85 47.5s look like they are a single ring different casting & the big bores look like a 2 ring. Hard to tell from some of the generic photos Denis Kirk or Ebayers put up, but that was impression I got. Ohh I know I'll look at Wiseco site. . . .no pic. At least they list the rings separately which was a concern. But no comment on how many are in a kit.

Wonder what wiseco rings intended for electrofusion are like on steel bore? I know Kawi ones wear steel bores like better.

[Yow Ling]

Wonder what wiseco rings intended for electrofusion are like on steel bore? I know Kawi ones wear steel bores like better.

Steel or cast iron?