ESE's works engine tuner

[CrizR]

Plug projection - yes and no. I spent hours setting up the long version R7282A -105 used in Honda's with under plug deto sensor to remove the extra 3mm of thread
to have the electrodes well into the combustion chamber middle. Made no difference at all in a KZ.
But Frits has done a similar thing by removing the bare unthreaded end of a conventional plug , and reports that its as good as the all conquering R7376 for way less dollars.

Great info Wob, thank you!!

Anyone rolling exhaust cones?

You need one of these:

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/trQ...ibextid=oFDknk

Man that would make it all much much easier!

Hey guys I was searching around for the big end oiling options and couldn't find anything about it here, if someone can point me to the right page would be greatly appreciated.

The most I've found online is this....

[F5 Dave]

Yes, a good option is to mix oil in with the petrol or introduce it into the inlet. In the late 60s (my T125 Stinger is an example) they formed a complex array of drilling etc. That was all abandoned.

So my primary question is: Why?

At the bottom feeding level, I used to buy old motors to race with as it seemed cheaper and i was skint. The micro rust killed the bearings as soon as you asked them questions (and revs) they didn't want to answer.

New parts were the answer.

. . . Until further questions (and revs) were asked. Careful parts selection and often resizing were another answer.

[Pagi]

Woobly,

I saw that you use this box, https://www.ebay.com/itm/11617450300...1071f2124381e9

do you use it on the dyno with EGT and CHT? if so, when you have found the best jet for the RAD / day, do you have a red light or two that comes on...? how do you adjust the sensitivity ...?

[wobbly]

I dont use CHT as it tells you nothing useful about the combustion parameters.
The deto gauge I setup such that a couple of the indicator lights come on during a normal test - this is the inherent background noise of the running engine.
As I lean the engine down , one or two more may flicker on.

But it happens all the time, as I approach the point where the egt is about to flat line on the next leaner jet , the red , deto , light will flicker.
If I was dumb enough to go one leaner the egt would drop at the same time as I get a hard red - showing 5V on the logger.
The flickering red deto light is a much more definitive metric , as a flat line egt is very hard to actually recognize on the screen in real time.

Here is the 8mm Bosch sensor fitted to the head of a KZ on the dyno.

[Pagi]

I dont use CHT as it tells you nothing useful about the combustion parameters.
The deto gauge I setup such that a couple of the indicator lights come on during a normal test - this is the inherent background noise of the running engine.
As I lean the engine down , one or two more may flicker on.

But it happens all the time, as I approach the point where the egt is about to flat line on the next leaner jet , the red , deto , light will flicker.
If I was dumb enough to go one leaner the egt would drop at the same time as I get a hard red - showing 5V on the logger.
The flickering red deto light is a much more definitive metric , as a flat line egt is very hard to actually recognize on the screen in real time.

Here is the 8mm Bosch sensor fitted to the head of a KZ on the dyno.

thank you very much sir

[Flettner]

Great info Wob, thank you!!



Man that would make it all much much easier!

Hey guys I was searching around for the big end oiling options and couldn't find anything about it here, if someone can point me to the right page would be greatly appreciated.

The most I've found online is this....

Too slow to introduce oil in relation to load.

[skako]

Great info Wob, thank you!!



Man that would make it all much much easier!

Hey guys I was searching around for the big end oiling options and couldn't find anything about it here, if someone can point me to the right page would be greatly appreciated.

The most I've found online is this....

Hi,
I would solve the effective lubrication of the crank pin bearing in this way.

[wobbly]

As part of the project of fitting TZR250 - 3XV roadbike cylinders to a 4DP TZ250 racebike I am spending a fortune to actually finalize the debate about
what piston and chamber configuration makes the best power.
Jan had already tested the domed piston with a bathtub Vs a part spherical so that wasn't needed , so I will do
a bathtub Vs a toroid on the 98 YZ125 Wossner domed piston.
I have already tested the part spherical against the toroid on a flat top , so this time its the almost flat top VHM TZ 250 piston with a bathtub Vs a toroidal.

The pipe has been updated a little and we now have 54Hp Crank per cylinder on petrol with no deto , and the torque dip has been flattened out , so this should satisfy many peoples curiosity.
This curve is with RS125 VF4 and 40mm Lectron HV carbs that may not yet make it onto the bike for dyno testing.
The spark plug is a 10mm version of the R7376 , as this will reduce the shadow or masking effect created by the toroids intrusion into the loop flow regime , but will have no effect I believe in the bathtub.

[Condyn]

This development is exciting to see Wobbly. Thank you for sharing. Are you still using the oddball reverse two piece baffle? ( steep to shallow ) Also I am curious what area of the pipe you focused on to flatten out the tq dip if you do not mind sharing. Thanks again.

[wobbly]

Yes the concave weirdo rear cone still makes the best power spread - Yamaha's idiot short stroke makes it so hard to get it to overev , and that configuration just seems to work best.
I have a tried a short/shallow and then steep long second rear cone like the Jolly/JL and of course the 3 cone Aprilia style , and all manner of single cones , but no , it wants weird - end of.

I gained some front side by going away from the longer than normal and steepest last diffuser ( No 3 ) and ended up with a steep long mid ( No2 ) diffuser , with a very short/shallow last ( No3 ) diffuser, like the Aprilia,
that at least gave a flat torque with no dip , however small.
Strange , as the longer/steeper No3 works so well ( much shorter TL though ) for front side power in the TM - R1,R2 pipes - but no PV of course.

But this large series of iterations has highlighted for me the real issue with the Aprilia 102 type design , the No1 diffuser is miles too long.
And also shows how dead cool the very old spool PV design is where it closes off all 3 ports - but with differing timings , something Neels put into the code that was super useful.

[Frits Overmars]

Wob, I am impressed by your generosity. Most of us may not realize how much research you are giving away here.

[wobbly]

Yea well Frits I am trying to optimize a 1991 TZ250 using as much trickery as i can muster.
As I have explained elsewhere this whole 10 year series of Yamaha's were pig slow due to their fixation on the short stroke and adding as many transfer ducts as they could.

Some of the results will help others, but hey all this thing can win is a National Trophy for a set period racebike, big deal , so I feel no need to be a secret squirrel.
The 3XV roadbike has "normal" 5 transfers that can be Apriliaized , and the Ex duct exit hits 0.8Mach at the 50 Hp level with no welding needed.

We have moved far along from the old so called A Kit and Jolly/JL pipe designs , all enabled by Neels code , so all I am doing is using experience and technology to improve the mousetrap
so more people can catch more mice.
Not quite as cool as a Kart World Title , but I have a bunch of those already.

Edit : As I said to Jan a short time ago , his contributions as espoused by your online explanations I use nearly every day - Im just expanding on that with newer , and now tested ideas.

[Condyn]

Agreed Frits, very generous indeed.

[F5 Dave]

And makes great reading.

[diesel pig]

I would like to add my thanks as well, it mean's us lesser mortals don't waste time chasing mice that are not worth catching.