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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #24286
    Join Date
    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    husaberg
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    I haven't tried the air-driven variety of the ebay dental tools yet, sounds like they hold up better than the electric version that just crumble in your hands...

    Back on the dyno!... And the struggle continues...
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9b2RutjK7U

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9b2RutjK7U
    I enjoyed the video.
    Are the engine mounts a tight fit with their bolts? and done up tight? Is the carb intake rubber soft?
    Pretty sure a few had suggested 70% BF.
    You can take some weight out and subsitute some alloy bungs on the light side if you have run out of area to put in Tungsten on the otherr side
    You will lose crank inertia, but getting the BF factor right right be worth it for now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  2. #24287
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Norway
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    I enjoyed the video.
    Are the engine mounts a tight fit with their bolts? and done up tight? Is the carb intake rubber soft?
    Pretty sure a few had suggested 70% BF.
    You can take some weight out and subsitute some alloy bungs on the light side if you have run out of area to put in Tungsten on the otherr side
    You will lose crank inertia, but getting the BF factor right right be worth it for now.
    Thanks!
    There is a very small amount of play in the mounts cause of how they are designed. Maybe I should redo those with proper bushings before I continue, to take them out of the equation.
    The carb rubber is soft.
    Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
    https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
    Two strokes & rum!

  3. #24288
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Page .... 1920

    Stuffing two strokes. This is a collection of must see videos. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHR...dp-Bi1-w11R7WQ


    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Guru, AMA tech inspector, and probably the best technical editor who ever wrote

    Attachment 326831Attachment 326832Attachment 326833Attachment 326834Attachment 326835Attachment 326836
    A great thread devoted to Kevin Cameron, worth a visit.



    Quote Originally Posted by Haufen View Post
    Enough motivation to stop procrastinating on the installation of a deto sensor. With a diameter of about 20mm at the mating side I am asking myself where to put it ideally (and where not to put it). As I run a paper gasket, I suppose somewhere on the water cooled cylinder would be nice, but there is not enough space available, except "on a stick" on one of the bolting areas for the head cover. Where du you guys put yours?
    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Follow the links back for more details.

  4. #24289
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    19th June 2011 - 00:29
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    KR-1S, KR1-SV, KXR500, ZXR 4/600
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    I always dyno my moped engine with locked variator, so I dyno only the engine without the influence of the vario.
    then I dyno it with the vario to get the best out of the vario.

  5. #24290
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by JanBros View Post
    I always dyno my moped engine with locked variator, so I dyno only the engine without the influence of the vario.
    then I dyno it with the vario to get the best out of the vario.
    That's the way to do it!
    I plan on making a fixed pulley setup for the purpose.
    Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
    https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
    Two strokes & rum!

  6. #24291
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    18th March 2013 - 08:20
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    Suzuki GT500 1976
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    United Kingdom
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    Anyone know where I can buy a lock-out kit for the auto? Gillera Runner (125/180) and Piaggio Zip. Very time poor at the moment (not exactly cash rich either!) so no chance to make. Thanks

  7. #24292
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaisyB View Post
    Anyone know where I can buy a lock-out kit for the auto? Gillera Runner (125/180) and Piaggio Zip. Very time poor at the moment (not exactly cash rich either!) so no chance to make. Thanks
    You can try info@hvg-engineering.com. The vario lock-out kits are not mentioned on the regular hvg-engineering.com website but I know they are available.

    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    There is a very small amount of play in the mounts cause of how they are designed. Maybe I should redo those with proper bushings before I continue, to take them out of the equation. The carb rubber is soft.
    If you fit a proper vario lock-out kit with a toothed belt instead of a V-belt, you will have far less transmission losses and you can temporarily tighten the engine mounts.
    Did you balance your crankshaft with the inlet disk mounted?

  8. #24293
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    Did you balance your crankshaft with the inlet disk mounted?
    You know the answer to that Frits... I've just written it's effect off as insignificant, which it probably isn't.

    I'll start on the propper bushing mounts, and see what I can do about a lock out kit.
    Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
    https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
    Two strokes & rum!

  9. #24294
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    I wont say that increasing the BF ( beyond where it is now ) is the fix for your vibe issues but I believe suggesting 70% is wrong.
    A lightweight VERTICAL cylinder needs around 58% - going the other way a horizontal axis needs down at 35%.
    A vertical Manx at 80% is a special case that just proves the point.
    Every engine /chassis is a resonant system, and they each react differently, but in all cases the basic idea is to reduce the vertical bar shake symptom.
    Technically your engine with its angled axis should react favorably to a BF closer to 50%,but the fuel frothing thing seems to be created by a combination
    of factors not even being considered at this point.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  10. #24295
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    the fuel frothing thing seems to be created by a combination
    of factors not even being considered at this point.
    Probably.
    I'm starting at the engine mounts, eliminating the slight play and introducing some dampening with rubber/plastic bushings.
    Suggestions are welcome!
    Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
    https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
    Two strokes & rum!

  11. #24296
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    25th February 2014 - 01:31
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    Probably.
    I'm starting at the engine mounts, eliminating the slight play and introducing some dampening with rubber/plastic bushings.
    Suggestions are welcome!
    Bearings might work but may make the chassis vibrate much more.

    I´ve seen recently a moped like that and it had a lower mounted spring to counter the engine belt pulling force, that mechanism may be guided to avoid side play and be rubber mounted for better isolation. The moped in question had only 2 mount points to hold the engine in the frame, the top one, wich pivots the engine to do the variator thing and the spring to counter force the drive belt. Is the same system as your bike?

  12. #24297
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by dark art View Post
    Bearings might work but may make the chassis vibrate much more.

    I´ve seen recently a moped like that and it had a lower mounted spring to counter the engine belt pulling force, that mechanism may be guided to avoid side play and be rubber mounted for better isolation. The moped in question had only 2 mount points to hold the engine in the frame, the top one, wich pivots the engine to do the variator thing and the spring to counter force the drive belt. Is the same system as your bike?
    Bearings could work!

    That's how the stock setup works on these bikes.
    My "parallelogram" mount has two mounting points and the engine is moving in a more linear fashion. This has the advantage of more rigidity, and no need for flexible parts/ball joint in the pipe.
    Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
    https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
    Two strokes & rum!

  13. #24298
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    4th August 2007 - 17:55
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    NSR300 F3, ME BUCKET
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    Wellington
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    photo.

    Well the 300 used to look like this 3 days ago. Now its in a sad state a little like me. Big big crash. On a plus they were all going very well. With Glen securing pole, a win and a lap record. Race 2 was stopped due to me going over the bars.

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  14. #24299
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    7th June 2009 - 13:29
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    Norton Manx
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    Factual Facts are based on real Fact and Universal Truths. Alternative Facts by definition are not based on Truth.

  15. #24300
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    2nd July 2013 - 11:52
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    GPR150
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    palmertson north
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    Quote Originally Posted by richban View Post
    Well the 300 used to look like this 3 days ago. Now its in a sad state a little like me. Big big crash. On a plus they were all going very well. With Glen securing pole, a win and a lap record. Race 2 was stopped due to me going over the bars.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    how good are the new pipes on bike? Looks like you finished race 2 ..what's happening?
    i'm over buckets

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