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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #15301
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Auckland
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    I so much enjoyed the BOB last year it broke my heart to have to miss this year, and so I am so definitely going to be there with my new bike next year.

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    Needed to trim the cylinder head heat sink, I don't have a mill so got the trusty old skill saw out.

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    Does a good job too.

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    Head fits great.

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    Thanks to Gigglebuttons help, the main engine mounts are all sorted.

    Now I can get onto doing the thing I like most, engine building!

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    When the motor is all together we will fit a head mount too.

    I am so looking forward to getting to ride the Beast at the BOB next year.

  2. #15302
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    1st March 2011 - 19:15
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    1996 Buell S1
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    check this out

    Experimetal DMF engine made by EMOTracing is ready for running.
    Faeturing a 6 speed casette gearbox ,dry clutch ,rotary inlet.
    And a experimental 90 degree turned cilinder layout.
    The inlet is opposite to the exhaust ,which points out to the left side of the engine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #15303
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Wellington. . ok the hutt
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Links to some Ruapuna B track and 2014 BOB video
    Links aren't currently working? They are on the BOB thread. Orange bike buggering off near the start is my MB100, sadly my inability to actually win is another story.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  4. #15304
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chambers 13.6 rwhp RG50 with pumper carb and KX80 ignition.

    Chambers enjoys taking an intuitive approach to developing his motors and he seems to do pretty well with it.

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    Blue line 74% Ex port width, Green line 82%.

    I have always thought you can get away with more exhaust port width on a 50 than the bigger engines.

    Now bringing a bit of science to the party.

    As a rule of thumb, a bridged eyebrow exhaust port flows 85% of a single exhaust port of the same area.

    So you would expect a well shaped single exhaust at 85% to flow as much as the widest (100%) of eyebrow ports.

    The depth of ring to diameter ratio seems to favor the 50's. So I plan on exploring how far we can get with a single exhaust port RG50 because I think that there is little practical advantage to be had with a multi window exhaust port on these small cylinders if you can get away with running extra wide single exhaust ports.

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    Blue line is JonnyBalistics aftermarket Aprilia 50 cylinder with eyebrow exhaust ports, Green is the RG.

    I recon we will get more out of the RG when we play with the reed inlet and re shape the reed valve duct and barrel around the inlet area, currently it is stock, as are the transfer ducts/windows/roof angles (but transfer timing has been altered with a spacer plate).

  5. #15305
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    As a rule of thumb, an eyebrow exhaust port flows 80% of a single exhaust port of the same area.

    .
    what do you meen eyebrow exh ? never really heard that term before

  6. #15306
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by peewee View Post
    what do you meen eyebrow exh ? never really heard that term before
    Maybe I have used the wrong term, should I have called them T ports?

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    RGV250 eyebrow or T ports? with power valves.

  7. #15307
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Maybe I have used the wrong term, should I have called them T ports?

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    RGV250 eyebrow or T ports? with power valves.
    ...or without power valves, still a T-port. I think the main criteria is that the port has a central divider.

  8. #15308
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    yes i know what a T port is. aka bridged exh.

  9. #15309
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    13th September 2014 - 05:14
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    '76 RD-400C
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    The Emerald City
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    Haven't been able to get online at all for a week, which is probably just as well since I got over-exposed here by the kindly intent of TZ350 Anyhow, to Mr. Overmars, my observation that some bikers could introduce a measure of adjustability into their expansion chambers via an adjustable baffle cone was offered only because it doesn't appear to me that moving the entire pipe, trombone-fashion, is a practical option on many bikes. But thanks for your little treatise on the subject, which I'll be reading carefully. Also, thanks for the photo of the Rossi outboard (note that it is sitting on the bottom of the towerhousing; when ready to race, there's a small streamlined lower unit bolted under the towerhousing, with a propshaft and steering skeg). I barely know enough about computers to do THIS, and haven't yet learned how to post photos.

    My unscientific intuition about leakage problems in pipes with sliding sections is that if the fit-ups are reasonably close and craftsmanlike, leakage tends to be minimalized by the fact that the inner sliding element gets very hot and expands towards, maybe against, an outer sliding element that is exposed to the air and shedding heat, therefore somewhat cooler. On my own pipes, long ago, I sprayed an approx. 0.1mm thick coating of a heat-cured molydisulfide (Kal-Gard)(now called KG Industries) on the sliding section. This was to take up a little of the tolerance, and to give a good anti-grab surface. If only I hadn't been such a mediocre driver . . . .

    We always used to joke about "speed secrets" (sometimes we only pretended we were joking, while secretly we were on full alert). Here's one for my new Kiwi friends (who probably know all about it). That moly coating I spoke of (spray it on meticulously clean parts with an air-brush, let dry, bake at 300F for an hour) works well inside rotary valve cases. Shhhhh!!!

    Chrisc, about the outboard racing videos you linked, I've known the father of the racer featured in the first video for maybe forty years. He (the dad) owns a Kawasaki 500 triple that was water-jacketed and turned on-end for outboard racing that many years ago, and I occasionally pester him to put it together and run it. As to the second video, a "World" championship in our sport is run under European rules, which among other things mandate a "jetty start," in which all boats are started at the shore of the lake and start racing from that point. Personally, that doesn't appeal to me at all. American rules, at a "National" championship, call for a flying start against a giant clock sitting at the edge of the beach on the start/finish line, counting down the last minute, the idea being to hit the line at full speed a micro-second after the clock hits zero. When all twelve boats happen to get it right and come down line-abreast and flat-out, it's a wonderful sight; when they all get to the first turn in a pack, well, some folks are going to get seriously hosed!! On some hot summer day, put on your swimming trunks and your full-face helmet, go out in the backyard and have your wife or kids aim the garden hose straight at your face. Note that your vision is limited to a few intermittent and badly obscured glimpses, when you can see anything at all. This is pretty much what you get to see if you are mid-pack or back through the first turn. Unfortunately, I got to see a lot of this in my racing days.

    (EDIT) I don't want anyone misled on my "speed secret" above. The coating can helpful particularly where you have a rather flexible rotary valve disc. As far as power improvement from friction reduction, probably not detectable. A lot of the drag may be from the oil on the cases and disc, and I don't know that the moly surface "wets" any better or worse than bare aluminum.

  10. #15310
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    husaberg
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    Quote Originally Posted by peewee View Post
    what do you meen eyebrow exh ? never really heard that term before
    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Maybe I have used the wrong term, should I have called them T ports?



    RGV250 eyebrow or T ports? with power valves.
    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    ...or without power valves, still a T-port. I think the main criteria is that the port has a central divider.
    Blame Mr Bell rather than it being a quirk of the kiwi vernacular. I must say it always looked like eyebrows to me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  11. #15311
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by seattle smitty View Post
    ..to Mr. Overmars, my observation that some bikers could introduce a measure of adjustability into their expansion chambers via an adjustable baffle cone was offered only because it doesn't appear to me that moving the entire pipe, trombone-fashion, is a practical option on many bikes.
    Right you are. But note that Mr. Overmars was my beloved father; just Frits is fine by me.

    I barely know enough about computers to do THIS, and haven't yet learned how to post photos.
    Right again. It seems like every forum has its own particular way of picture-posting, and Kiwibiker is very particular. It took me quite a while to get the hang of it and I'm sure I haven't discovered all finesses yet.

    That moly coating I spoke of (spray it on meticulously clean parts with an air-brush, let dry, bake at 300F for an hour) works well inside rotary valve cases. Shhhhh!!!
    A couple of years ago we were temporarily sharing a four-stroke tuner's workshop. He molycoated the pistons of his Superbike and Supersport machines and he swore by it. So we tried it on a two-stroke piston. After one dyno-run, there was hardly a trace of the stuff left to be found. So we never tried it again on anything.

    On some hot summer day, put on your swimming trunks and your full-face helmet, go out in the backyard and have your wife or kids aim the garden hose straight at your face. Note that your vision is limited to a few intermittent and badly obscured glimpses, when you can see anything at all. This is pretty much what you get to see if you are mid-pack or back through the first turn. Unfortunately, I got to see a lot of this in my racing days.
    Reminds me of a friend's description of the best way to imitate ocean-sailing: stand under a shower and throw away hundred-dollar bills as fast as you can.

  12. #15312
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    13th September 2014 - 05:14
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    The Emerald City
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    That's interesting that your coating attempt didn't hold up, because the coating we put on our pistons, which have to live with fuels that are hard on many materials, hold up very well. I got onto this moly dry-lube process in 1966 when talking with the father of a kid with whom I had been a Boy Scout. The dad was a Boeing engineer and lubricants specialist, had been with Shell Oil for years before hiring on with Boeing. He gave me a Boeing Materials Spec and a mil-spec (IIRC it was mil-L-8987), and directed me to the local company that did all of this work for Boeing (I forget what components). So I had them do my pistons, carburetor slides, and other stuff for a few years until finding out about Kal-Gard, which by the mid-'70s was running half-page color ads in Cycle magazine with their line of DIY dry lubes. That was the heyday of 2-stroke club-level roadracing, with a thousand mad amateur tuners grinding ports with their Foredom flex-shaft grinders, for better or worse, but loving it. By the mid-'80s the heyday of the home-modified roadracers was disappearing, and Kal-Gard dropped the ads and returned to servicing the gunsmiths who had been their original customers. Then the company changed hands, and as I said, the remnant is called KG Industries.

    Usual practice (and it does take some practicing, with no-good pistons and parts) is to try to lay a coat roughly 0.05mm (0.002" which is what I'm used to) on the piston skirt (I mask off the ring groove). The EXTREMELY CLEAN piston is warmed up enough to drive off any moisture, then allowed to cool to a little hotter than room temp. I set the piston in the middle of an old phonograph turntable, set at low speed, and build the coating with an air-brush. As stated, after the coating has flash-dried and set up a little bit, I put the part in a small portable oven set for 300F (checked with an oven thermometer), and bake it for an hour. In the assembled engine, about the first half-thousandth (let's see, .010mm) is immediately burnished off, but then the remainder of the coating holds up for a long time. When it does wear down, the piston gets re-coated.

    For a short time, long ago, I became a sort of guru for a little crowd of owners of old Nortons and Triumphs and Enfields. I was in a bike shop when one of them mentioned how his Amal carbs, which were rigidly-mounted, would wear their slides, resulting in rough idling. I offered to build up his slides with a coating that would tend to resist further wear. The guy was so happy with the result that for a little while his buddies were calling me for the same service. That surely will have been the only time in my life that I'll ever be any sort of "guru"!!

  13. #15313
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    Very interesting Smitty. Thanks for your input.
    Can you be more specific about which KG product is the MoS2 lubricant that you bake?

  14. #15314
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    During testing of pistons for the BSL we had endless trouble getting small batches made, with the small shape changes needed.
    When we finally got it right we wore our last couple of sets out , after doing some 300+ laps when testing at Sepang.
    They actually rattled on the overun into corners.
    HPC coatings in Auckland applied a Moly based baked on coating, that they said would get us back running till replacements arrived.
    The coating was thick enough that when first put together there was ZERO bore clearance.
    I was super nervous about Steve Briggs being thrown down the road at Puke when running it in, but after a few laps he gave it death with no issues at all.
    It did around 30 laps that day, and after pulling it down there was no sign of scuffing or the coating wearing away.
    I put one piston into the single cylinder dyno engine that night, and it made just over 1.5Hp more in 56 repeatably.
    Cheap method to retrieve worn pistons, and for sure the coating lasted well.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  15. #15315
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    the brilliant team of engineers at wiseco put a coating on some of them pistons. doesnt seem to last very long then you have 2x the piston clearance. armorglide is the name but im sure its just some type of moly. your better off to remove it before hand or avoid it all together

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