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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #23656
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    Just guessing: each time an injector opens, the fuel in the line to the injector has to be accelerated from zero to the required flow velocity. The higher this required velocity, the more severe will be the pressure drop over this fuel line, with the injector seeing less and less pressure. Maybe this is the maxing-out factor.
    If so, a large-diameter fuel rail directly in front of the injector and fitting the pressure regulator and pressure gauge on this fuel rail may help.

    Repeated warning: the EGT drops when detonation sets in. Then if your MCU tries to counteract the dropping EGT by reducing the injection duration, things may get out of hand very quickly.

  2. #23657
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    something else is controlling the fuel delivery.
    You can only mix and match pieces from various bikes for so long without stumbling upon a haunted part.
    Naming your bike "The Beast" certainly doesn't help either.
    What must not has happened, all you can do now is premix with holy water and pray.

    Speaking of haunted; I might have gotten to the bottom of my carb (Oko pwk 24mm)problems: too high fuel level in the float bowl.

    I've adjusted the float up and down before, but never far away from the "recommended" height. Since I could not find anything weird or wrong with my carb, and after testing with a brace to stiffen up the intake, weighting down the carb to reduce the resonance frequency and even holding it in my hand during a run to dampen vibration gave no results, I felt I had to get a closer look at what was going on in there.
    Bought a translucent float bowl(red was the only color in stock). With the float set at the "recommended" height(parallel to the gasket surface) fuel level is above the bowl gasket face, by how much I don't know, but this has to be a problem cause the overflow tube juste barely protrudes over it, and must be very close to being submerged.

    Lowered the float (ALOT) until I got a level I think is reasonable and should work. (purple line).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Maybe my Oko has a denser than normal float or something.

    Haven't had the time to test it yet, but hopefully my success story writeup is coming soon...

  3. #23658
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    isnt oko a chinese copy of keihin? i never dared to try one

  4. #23659
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    Quote Originally Posted by peewee View Post
    isnt oko a chinese copy of keihin? i never dared to try one
    Sort of, actually the "genuine" Oko's are made in Taiwan, and considered to be of ok quality. The market is flooded with copies of the copies or fake copies or whatever you want to call it. You can easily end up with something real shitty.

    Your mileage may vary I suppose.

    Mine ticks all the boxes for a true genuine copy, but you never know.

  5. #23660
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    The OKO copies seem to work just fine, they have been doing it for ages and just shows what the price of a Keihin should be
    as they are made " just down the road " form the OKO plant anyway.
    I machined the bore of one the other day, and the material was really nice with no inclusions or rubbish in the casting at all.
    Same with Brembo brake copies. I bought a rear caliper for $60 with free shipping,and once I changed to SBS pads it has worked perfectly for 3 seasons
    racing.
    The real deal cost upward of $400 and as far as anyone is concerned it really is a Brembo.
    Those old jokes about coke cans being used to make castings are wearing a bit thin these days, as the vast majority of machine tools used to make parts in the West have been made in Taiwan
    for over 30 years.
    Where do Brembo get off trying to charge $1K for a MotoGP 19RCS " forged " master cylinder when one that actually has been " forged " cost less than $100.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  6. #23661
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    Lowered the float (ALOT) until I got a level I think is reasonable and should work. (purple line).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    We have used a lot of 24mm OKO carbs and use a clear float bowl to set the fuel height, pretty much where your blue line is. One benefit of the clear float bowl is that you can see air bubbles in the fuel if there is a leak where the central jet holder is attached to the carb body with two screws, we had a leaky O ring there and now glue over that area as a matter of course. The OKO carb bodies machine very well, love working with them. And there is a whole thread someplace that talks about how to tell a genuine OKO from a Chinese look a like.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Attachment 320733 Genuine Taiwanese OKO's have the Taiwanese flag on the top right of the box, Chinese knock off's don't.
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...8282-OKO-Carbs

  7. #23662
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    The float valves are a bit sub average and spent too much time dikn around trying to fix other people's oko carbs. Always run Keihin and never had same issue. But they are still sensitive to float height.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  8. #23663
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    We have used a lot of 24mm OKO carbs and use a clear float bowl to set the fuel height, pretty much where your blue line is. One benefit of the clear float bowl is that you can see air bubbles in the fuel if there is a leak where the central jet holder is attached to the carb body with two screws, we had a leaky O ring there and now glue over that area as a matter of course. The OKO carb bodies machine very well, love working with them. And there is a whole thread someplace that talks about how to tell a genuine OKO from a Chinese look a like.



    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...8282-OKO-Carbs
    My box had the flag. Yes, I'm a winner!

  9. #23664
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    The float valves are a bit sub average and spent too much time dikn around trying to fix other people's oko carbs. Always run Keihin and never had same issue. But they are still sensitive to float height.
    When you need a PWK carb smaller than 28mm there is not much of a choice than to buy copycarbs.
    But after fiddling around with a lot of shitty copies (Stage6, Koso, fake Keihins) the black Okos with the polished bellmouth are the first ones working like the original keihins.

  10. #23665
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    I get my Oko stuff from here http://www.oko-australia.com.au always been good so far...
    Sometimes you wish it was easier, but if it was, everyone else would do it, then you remember you don't want to be like everybody else!

  11. #23666
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    Must be hugely frustrating for oko when they spend all that time and effort stealing someone's design and start earning money from it that some unscrupulous buggers copy the idea.

    More karma than irony. Alanis Morissette wasn't available for comment. Fortunately, as I have some reserves of her mastery of the concept.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  12. #23667
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    atleast you didnt win the lottery and die the next day

  13. #23668
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    That would only be ironic if you'd bet that you wouldn't.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  14. #23669
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    legally bound

    Frits,

    are you still held to any secrecy law regarding a new type of 2 stroke engine ?

  15. #23670
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    Quote Originally Posted by breezy View Post
    Frits, are you still held to any secrecy law regarding a new type of 2 stroke engine ?
    Non-Diclosure Agreements don't go away easily, Breezy. They stipulate two involved parties and a period of time, usually several years. And they stay in force as long as both parties exist. I would have to die in order to get out of an NDA and I'm not prepared to go that far. Or I could shoot the other party, but that might have consequences as well.

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