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Thread: The Bucket Foundry

  1. #1216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Still uploading the last video. I think it was between 2.5 amd 3.5 percent. Gas until hard and yes I do poke small holes though the core to help the gas through, too much gas and you just waste it. It's quite quick to harden. If you have blind pockets you will need gas holes in the sand right up to the pattern. I've got a video on gassing but things are said that can't be let out on YouTube so I will do another one when I get time. These video's are a year and a half old.
    Ok thanks for the reply, I'll look forward to the "public version" of the gassing video.

  2. #1217
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Will I came across this seeing as you like experimenting.
    http://jarod.eells.us/projects/Found...-silicate.html
    Thanks Husa,
    That definitely is the most informative piece of written information on coremaking I have seen to date!


    BTW, are the overseas guys, like Smitty and Ken Seeber still around? - hope they will still be contributing!

  3. #1218
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  4. #1219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Last one
    Did you manage to get it out ok?

  5. #1220
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post
    Did you manage to get it out ok?
    No, this was the first try of the core box (in sand) but after a little sanding of one of the side walls (taper was not there) it worked perfectly. All this to cast two cylinders of which only one has been machined.
    The point of posting these was to show CO2 sand core making in opperation. I have used wire inside the sand to reinforce the core if its a bit week in places.

  6. #1221
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    Great info thanks Flettner, will have a go very soon.

  7. #1222
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    Neil,Mike T, or whoever,
    I have been making wooden split patterns (of nothing in particular) on the lathe, they look ok. but I was just using soft pine which is a bit fragile and easily damaged. So I'm hoping some of you can tell me what is the best wood for the purpose.
    I need something which will be good to turn and machine, will stand up to the moulding process, take the odd knock, can be used over and over, ie will last for more than one or two castings.

  8. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post
    Neil,Mike T, or whoever,
    I have been making wooden split patterns (of nothing in particular) on the lathe, they look ok. but I was just using soft pine which is a bit fragile and easily damaged. So I'm hoping some of you can tell me what is the best wood for the purpose.
    I need something which will be good to turn and machine, will stand up to the moulding process, take the odd knock, can be used over and over, ie will last for more than one or two castings.
    Neil said amourboard (no idea of the spelling)its like custom wood but has a lot more resin in it ages ago. but he uses any wood that is dry, hence the old furniture.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #1224
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Neil said amourboard (no idea of the spelling)its like custom wood but has a lot more resin ages ago. but he uses any wood that is dry, hence the old furniture.
    Guess there are a lot of different types of pine! the stuff I'm using is so light it would rival balsa! and it tends to be a little crumbly but then I just found it lying around.
    Not sure how Quila? Qwila? would go in the lathe, maybe too hard. Rimu seems to be a mixture of hard and soft. Kauri? if I can find it. or as Neil said, old furniture...... but I haven't got any at the moment!
    Unfortunately if I go out looking for timber, I don't really know what I'm looking at, I'm more into scrounging ally and other stuff in the scrapyard.

  10. #1225
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    Hi Will, I use custom wood then have to use a lot of expensive sealer to stabilise it, also I use walnut which finishes nicely and is stable albeit expensive if you have to buy it, traditionally Kauri was used here. Automotive bog will work if it is given a good coat of paint. Plywood will not warp as badly as plain wood, pine should work ok if well sealed.

  11. #1226
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post
    Guess there are a lot of different types of pine! the stuff I'm using is so light it would rival balsa! and it tends to be a little crumbly but then I just found it lying around.
    Not sure how Quila? Qwila? would go in the lathe, maybe too hard. Rimu seems to be a mixture of hard and soft. Kauri? if I can find it. or as Neil said, old furniture...... but I haven't got any at the moment!
    Unfortunately if I go out looking for timber, I don't really know what I'm looking at, I'm more into scrounging ally and other stuff in the scrapyard.
    Rimu is a mixture heart and the soft outer wood. Pine is generic it can cover radiata and even native woods or other imports.
    Not sure about the North island but seasoned Beech is nice to turn. Go to a thrift shop or garage sale.

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT1 View Post
    Hi Will, I use custom wood then have to use a lot of expensive sealer to stabilise it, .
    What sealer do you use?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  12. #1227
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Rimu is a mixture heart and the soft outer wood.
    Thanks Mike, Husa.
    I have just found an old top which seems to be off some bedroom furniture - unfortunately it has had some oil spilt on it but I have cut out the dry stuff and now I'm glueing it together (with pva to give it a bit of thickness). It was quite hard when I sawed it and its a medium/light brown colour.
    I guess it's heart Rimu, I'm no expert but we'll see how it goes.
    Any tips welcome.

  13. #1228
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    I use everdure or the transmarine epoxy timber sealer, works well but the custom wood will soak it up like a sponge. The Armorboard sounds interesting. I did a lot of pattern making for FFM motorcycle helmet molds, back when they were still made in NZ, but have only recently come to do the casting part.

  14. #1229
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT1 View Post
    I use everdure or the transmarine epoxy timber sealer, works well but the custom wood will soak it up like a sponge. The Armorboard sounds interesting.
    Thanks, I'll give these suggestions a try anyway, guess I will find the time between child minding sessions! all of this stuff is very interesting to me.
    I used to make some cast iron coreboxes (for resin sand) also the odd simple wooden pattern and always wanted to do castings as well and I'm almost there at last after many years of thinking about it!

    EDIT The pics are of the wood I'm trying at the moment.



    Meanwhile here is a video on greensand moulding which I found very interesting (the last quarter especially), the Geordie? accent is a bit hard to get your head around but he seems to know what it's all about!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfsR28ltLqM
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  15. #1230
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post
    Thanks, I'll give these suggestions a try anyway, guess I will find the time between child minding sessions! all of this stuff is very interesting to me.
    I used to make some cast iron coreboxes (for resin sand) also the odd simple wooden pattern and always wanted to do castings as well and I'm almost there at last after many years of thinking about it!

    EDIT The pics are of the wood I'm trying at the moment.



    Meanwhile here is a video on greensand moulding which I found very interesting (the last quarter especially), the Geordie? accent is a bit hard to get your head around but he seems to know what it's all about!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfsR28ltLqM
    Around 14.30 brake cleaner and graphite power mixed never seen that before looks rather fun.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

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